Are the 2wd saff cossie alternators the same as the saff cossie 4x4s.Im on about the alternators with the twin belt and not the V belt.The alternator on my saff has the main lead which is bolted on with a 13mm nut and the other 2 wires are on the same bullet connector.

The problem ive got is the battery light sometimes stays on for a few secs before it goes out.When it goes outit stays on very dim.I put a new battery on it a few weeks back cause the battery was fooked so its not that.Ive clean all the connections on the battery terminals.

Thank you please

 

Yes, they are.

Martin

 

2wd and early red top 4wd the same

green top has a different pulley on it though its the same alternator

 

I thought the 2wd ones were 70amp and the 4x4 ones were 90amp. I had a 2wd one on my saph and it never seemed to charge the battery as good as the proper 4x4 one.

 

All I know now is later V type not available and 2wd/4wd 90a available from Ford, Ł76 I paid.

I was advised to keep the heatshield and the pulley

 

Might have to keep a look out for one. There are a few on ebay but there only 70 amp ones.

 

3DR is 70A, Saphs are 90A.

It won't make a difference in terms of charging, I suspect the reason for the higher power was because the heated screen.

Martin

 

you need the 90a version

easily spotted by the sticker on the side that says "90amp" as opposed to "70amp"

they were standard fitment on the higher spec cars as there was more electrical load on them with 4 electric windows as well as other bump up options

 

Thanks Dojj.Top info again.

 

They are the same size but ford also fitted a physically smaller 55amp one fitted to some European sierras, but generally the alternators will be sided and you can swap the pulleys about fairly easily

Just make sure that you have lugs in the correct places, there is normally one that has the bolt through it with another boot for the adjustment, I've seen only on with a toothed wheel adjuster, everything else is either fixed with an adjustable tensioner for the serpentine application or you have to get there with a big lever to put the tension on

 

Dojj have you got any good ones lying about that you dont need.

 

Might have

Can't promise they'll be any good though but ill have a look tomorrow as I've git to fix a door at the olds

 

Try a new link wire from back of alt to battery as this cable suffers from voltage drop and other issues due to being by exhaustand now old. easy test would to use a jump cable but be carefull.

 

I've got a spare 90amp but unsure on the condition.

 

I gained a volt doing that according to my SECS monitor

 

Yeh i was thinking about doing that.Im sure last time i did a voltage charge check it was charging ok.Will have to check if again to make sure.

 

Yours is almost certainly an alternator problem, voltage drop on the output cable would not cause your problem.

Martin

 

Check earths too the body of the alt needs a good earth and painted brackets etc can cause issues.

 

Ive noticee when i press the brakes the battery light lights up a bit.Will have to have another play about with the car sometime.

 

Glenn mine is the same as that and it's doing my head in

Guys could I just run a wire straight of the alt to the batt and see what happens?

 

Yeh when my head lights are on and press the brakes the battery light brightens up.

 

The only benefit in doing this is to see if the voltage improves, the problem is this wire gets cooked by the heat from the turbo and so builds resistance over time. You can't use a wire it needs to be a heavy duty cable, i.e. a jump lead, I very much doubt that is causing your problem.

Another way of doing this is to measure the power at both ends of the cable and note the difference!

The light is extinguished by two lives, so for it to come on means the output of the actual unit is dropping, when you apply the brake lights that is circa a 3.5A load, switching on the heater, headlights etc should produce the same result... so it's either a bad unit or a bad ground connection.

Martin

 

Top info Marty as ever.

 

what no one has told us yet is if glenns actually put a meter across the battery to see what the readings are and if they are what they should be

14.2 volts when it's running or there abouts and then, with the tester on the bettery, get someone to start turning on stuff like the lights, heater, press the brakes etc one at a time to see what the readings go down to

don't forget that the abs pump may be working when you press the brakes, thus draining more power and increasing the load

i'll go and have a look now to see what sort of alternator i've got in the garage for you

 

Or thanks Dojj.Im finishing work at 6 all night this week and am busy after 6 this week.Will have a look at it on saturday.Ive got a few other jobs to do so will add this to the list lol.

 

ok, so i think it's a bit worse for wear having sat in the garage for the past several years, but that's the sticker on the top you should be looking for

 

Right what happens to a renault when u press the brakes????

You end up with the christmas tree effect caused by a bad earth.

Both myself and Martin have said this so if you have 14volts at battery the alt is charging. So id start looking at earth points battery to chassis and engine, alt to engine etc you could also add another earth link from alt long 13mm headed bolt to chassis.

Hope this info helps

 

Mine is 13v with nothing on just running

 

secs shows 14.2v at idle on mine. you could try the jump lead trick from alt to battery to see if voltage improves if so replace that cable.

Just remember low voltages = fuel pumps issues = lean mixture on boost= game over.

Regards

Paul

 

With everything on it drops to 12 something but the light comes on

 

Right i did a few checks on the alternator today.

I checked for resistance in the wire from the alternator and the battery.Seems ok to me.


This was the voltage from the back of the alterator.


Seems ok to me.

Checked the voltage of the battery with the engine running.I had the headlights and heaters on.



I also took a reading of the alternator charging the battery with nothing on ie headlights heaters and im sure it was about 14 volts.

 

Just double checked it again.At the alternator its 14.14volts at the battery its 13.95 when the engine is running and nothing is switched on.

 

That seems fine

 

they are good figures mate, so what are we missing to make your light come on every once in a while?

i know there was a resistor type thing in the back of the dash panel pcb which may cause similar issues, have you taken the dash out to check the wires there?

 

Also check the small blue wire on back of alt which goes to light. ensure its clean and tight

 

The blue wire is nice and tight and ive made sure its a tight fit.

At least the charging figures are good.

 

Mine is below 13v I think I need a new alt don't I

 

Guess so if you checked all cables inc earths

 

Below 13V isn't charging, have you checked the output at the alternator itself, in your case I suspect it is close to this figure, as it does sound like the unit or regulator, hence why the light comes on.

Martin

 

Just do the same checks as what i did matey.