Originally Posted by
martysmartie
The only benefit in doing this is to see if the voltage improves, the problem is this wire gets cooked by the heat from the turbo and so builds resistance over time. You can't use a wire it needs to be a heavy duty cable, i.e. a jump lead, I very much doubt that is causing your problem.
Another way of doing this is to measure the power at both ends of the cable and note the difference!
The light is extinguished by two lives, so for it to come on means the output of the actual unit is dropping, when you apply the brake lights that is circa a 3.5A load, switching on the heater, headlights etc should produce the same result... so it's either a bad unit or a bad ground connection.
Martin
what no one has told us yet is if glenns actually put a meter across the battery to see what the readings are and if they are what they should be
14.2 volts when it's running or there abouts and then, with the tester on the bettery, get someone to start turning on stuff like the lights, heater, press the brakes etc one at a time to see what the readings go down to
don't forget that the abs pump may be working when you press the brakes, thus draining more power and increasing the load
i'll go and have a look now to see what sort of alternator i've got in the garage for you
