tabetha

Just ordered my clutch master and slave cylinder for my hydraulic conversion, just got to get flexy pipe and(remote) reservoir now, I've spent £26.58 all in delivered for the two cyls, both brand new, series 2 and 2A land rover, reseal kits are £1.50!!
tabetha

JamesH

iTrader: (21)

You should start selling them as kits tabs

davecosworth

let me no what you need mate i can make you one up at work out of braded hose just need to no lenght and fitting sizes

z0tya

This is fit for the sierra cossie 2wd and bw t5?

Thx

opposite lock

iTrader: (3)

i,d love this conversion one day too , Sounds great Tabetha i,ll av to a look at that when done , might give you a call next week mate if your about

Mike

tabetha

I'll defo be about next week, the parts I ordered are indeed to go on my T5 box.
Many thanks for the pipe offer, but 3 doors away lives me mate who works for pirtek, who make these on site for the farmers/truckers etc so sorted there, thanks anyway.
It's only after driving/moving about me dads xr4i that I am convinced of hydraulic clutches, he has a 4L v8 in his with a heavy duty rally diaphragm, but his clutch pedal is piss easy to push, even me gf can do that and she's got partial parralysis on here left side!!
The conversion on his can't be seen underbonnet as I made up some bracketry to fit the pedal box etc so master cyl is inside near pedal, and reservoir is hidden under heater shield bit,(there was no room there with the different engine).
I'm going to be racking my brains thinking of a way to do this easily/cheaply without needing the box removed, but pretty much sorted that now, bit more money though around £70-£90 to do.
tabetha

andy escos

iTrader: (1)

coley (st200) has done this conversion on his t5 theres pics on his thread

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

ANDY,S 4X4 BOX



MY KIT ALL IN COST ME £110

JanDK

iTrader: (3)

what parts have you used??

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

slave is off a BMW E30 . and the master is a .700

ShiftyOldScoob

iTrader: (3)

This I like to see

Going to have a look into something like this myself as my left leg is getting bigger by the day lol

JanDK

iTrader: (3)

I see.. there is alot of combinations

JanDK

iTrader: (3)

Do any of you know if it would make alot of difference if a .750 master was used instead of a .700 ??

-beefy-

iTrader: (6)

im sure i heard somewhere that theres a center push setup used on one of the old landys ?


anyone shed some info i only need the pipe and the slave kit ,as ill be running a propper pb ,

beef

Sonic Boom

iTrader: (11)

Ye i'd be really interested in a diy centre push kit too.
Rich

tabetha

There are I beleive a few centre push ones that will fit with some light machining, I can have a ask around if you like.
The reason why I went for "external" slave was in case of any problems, ie if the cyl started leaking a few years down the line, simple unbolt job 10 minutes instead of box out job, the reason why I went for land rover series 2 and 2a parts was the rebuild kits are £2 if needed, plus these will be made long after others have ceased production due to no demand, landy's go forever the older ones, easy to get as well, like I say £26 the pair delivered.
Anyone wanting the reinforcement plates, which MUST be used I can get these plasma cut no trouble, I'm just using my step drill to do mine.
If you use a larger mc this will of be slightly heavier but with reduced travel, still way way lighter than a std clutch on cable however.
It is possible to make this with NO WELDING needed not even to the clutch arm, very easy to do, and cheap.
tabetha

tabetha

Had some good news today, managed to get away with just 0.5mm oversize, and crank polish, just ordered pistons(matt lewis), plus pump etc etc, clutch parts arrived today so wil hopefully have that sorted tuesday.
tabetha

opposite lock

iTrader: (3)

good news tabs
I too would love the clutch conversion brilliant mod!!

tabetha

Hi Mike,
Got me hydraulic clutch bits all done today, massively easier than I thought it was going to be, even with engine in car(mine was out) you'd do it in a day easy, soon do yours when wanted.
My mates now just cutting my plates, putting one either side of the bulkhead, ther eis a hole in the clutch pedal, right near the part number, about 6mm hole, and this is exactly in line with a dimple on the bulkhead seen through hole, this conveniently is exactly where the drill needs to be centred, just need to gently bend 2 pipes slightly to get master cylinder on, mod pedal to a fitting for rose joint or whatever way you're doing it, knock a rod up.
I'm taking loads of photo's as I go in case they help others, I suspect a slight bash on the trans tunnel would make things better for the slave cylinder on the bell housing, we'll see.
Had some majorly good news about the emerald K3, that you evetually want to go for.
The K3 is no more, the K6 is the new one, 2 of the new features of the K6 are LAUNCH CONTROL and TRACTION CONTROL, these two features can also be added to the previous K3 ecu's as well, so I don't even need to buy the new K6 to get me launch control.
The new K6 is vastly different from the K3, in other ways too, a lot of ecu for £595, still with £280 mapping cost, things just keep getting better.
tabetha

james kiely

iTrader: (5)

looking forward to your pics tabetha ,and thanks for offering your pics to help other members ,i have to do mine as the clutch pedal is a joke at the minute

graham c

iTrader: (5)

best conversion you can do this apart from big brakes

-beefy-

iTrader: (6)

yeah deffo ,

i may just got the external route as tabs reasoning seems a good one for not going center push ,

im luck to be fitting a willwood pedal boxx ,


all i need now is the info re the box mod and the relavant slave cyliner

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

It is, but there are plenty of cars on the road that use a centre push clutch slave "cylinder" (Vauxhall use them, for example). If you use a standard part, and then make up a mount to fit it, then it should last many tens of thousands of miles (longer than most cossie clutch plates.....correction - longer than most cossies)

keldsyke

I'm in the process of developing a centre push kit. Just need to get the mount for the cylinder designed and produced.

tabetha

No probs matey, never been a fan of the centre push conversions, good as they are, I mean if you were racing a cossie, what would be easier to do in the pits(or at home), 2 bolts to undo, or a gearbox to take out ?
I away in the morning, but when back on the car will measure the "pin" that went through the clutch ratchet lock pawl, as most likely be able to utilise this through the rose end joint.
Just got to measure the pedal stroke, so I can best fit the pivot point ideally, will give the lightest pedal still with full travel, I need to do this for myself, as need less travel on mine, as left leg 1 1/2" shorter so is the amount(throw) that I can push it, but I'l measure best pivot points for each.
When me dad saw me mucking about with the slave and master cylinder, he said hang on a minute, then informed me he has a new cylinder(slave) as is the same as his old rover sd1 used, commonality amongst bl/LR/RR being very very common, spares assured for years to come!!
I even bought sets of left hand taps in 5/16, and 3/8 for making my own extensions on the rose joints so simple turn to adjust is all that's needed.
Bought these also for other jobs, such as the pita fan belt adjustment on the astra, going to use a left and right hand rose joint for the alternator belt adjustment, saves having to take the strut brace off to adjust each time, and it bloody eats fan belts!!
I'll get the piccies up as I do it, just need to hoik me box out now to put in recon box.
tabetha

tabetha

They are already out there for the T5, centre push ones that is.
tabetha

cossie604

iTrader: (2)

Flange arrive ok then fella?

keldsyke

Yes mate, appreciated!!

Miller 3

iTrader: (4)

You got links as to wear you got the parts Chris

tabetha

I got my parts from ebay for the LR series 2/2a slave and master, a place in Gt Yarmouth(norfolk) if I remember right, rose ends various sizes l/r handed, I bought about 30 in total, mostly from ebay seller Mc GILL motorsports, www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk, reinforcing plates being made by a mate, he's cutting them with laser I think, not sure, adjusty rod bought some alloy rod off him, alright scrounged!!, will drill on lathe and tap left/right as needed.
I'm happy to help with bits for purely cost/postage if needed in a few weeks as busy busy till then.
tabetha

opposite lock

iTrader: (3)

Cheers Tabs for the offer, top man , very interested in the clutch conversion i,ll have a look when you,ve sorted your setup
This K6 looks awsome see it advertised on the site but no details yet , i must admit i do love the sound of boost with rpm and tps with these aftermarket ecu,s nowdays , as a roadie i think its the way forward in terms of driveability but it depends how fussy you are with things i guess.

any news on the rebuild Tabs ?

-beefy-

iTrader: (6)

burton seem to do a deecent center push kit but its pricy ,


surely though its a case of some one whos got one having the mount plate made up and then finding the corrosponding slave , i doubt burton would of had there own slave specced to suit ,

sure if someone could get me the dimensions , i could have these made no bother ,


beef

tabetha

Hi Mike,
Yes collecting my parts block, pump cover etc in the morning, cost was £353 all in for full balance rods end to end, then as sets pistons, crank, flywheel, rebore to 0.5, using deck plate, reface block, reface head, renew all core plugs, clean out block oil gallery, retap holes with bolts, polish the 200,000K miles crank, supply big end shells, supply mains, pocket pistons, well happy with the cost tbh, will start assembling at weekend, as have to spend 6 odd hours scrubbing and prepping block first, so pretty much a day on that alone!!
Checked and he has profiles for BD 8/10/12/14/15, as well as many others, he's doing me a pinto profile on me gf's astra merit to pep it up a bit as well!!
Been fixing me dads 4i today, he's got mot booked, then it decided to have major lecky issues, no dash lights but started and ran perfect but no voltmetre or oil pressure gauges no charge warning light, tripped the alt manually still didn't kick in, still 12.3, so alt knackered but doesn't account for dash lights etc, a few dodgy fuse conenctions later all fixed, new alt charging 14.04!!
Just await the "rust" verdict on mot now, told him I want me 3 door hubs back, bribed him by telling him I'll buy him new TCA's to go with me sapphy hubs!! when we swap over.
tabetha

davecosworth

any pictures of the clutch conversion and were you got the bits, also were did you get the machining done mate as i have got to have mine done

oohogwash1

I made mine up ready to fit when I get to that point, bought my braided line from a V8 supercar (touring car) supply shop. They were very specific about the ID of the brake line indicating that if you don't do it right your clutch will not have the right feel. If no one else has definitive knowledge on this I will measure it up next time I am in the shed. I think it was smaller is better and something about the type of line you use.
Could be all sale talk too, but he seemed to on the money as I had to do brake stuff on my MX bike.
Compbrake in UK supplied me bits too... they are great for sales and support....

tabetha

I've got shed loads of piccies of doing this on my car, if some kind person could host these for me I'd be grateful, just pm me your email addy.
I decided to use a reinforcing plate either side of the bulkhead, but tbh is probably a bit overkill, just remember having to weld up me dads rover sd1 where the master cylinder ripped out the bulkhead when pedal was pressed!!.
I've taken loads and loads of piccies, had an issue with mine, as only had a step drill up to 32mm, but needed 35mm minimum, ideally 36mm, so managed the last few mm with cutting stones, I have blacksmiths drill bits up to 32mm, my larger 30-54mm set is on loan, must borrow them back!!
I used a strong magnet on the inside of the car to catch 90% of the metal taken out to make the hole.
The brakes pipes need the tiniest of bends can't really notice, I made up a left/right adjuster, to go between the pedal and cylinder, the stroke on mine was 35mm(measured), the ideal pivot point ended up being roughly 10mm below the existing 6mm hole by the part number, but of course at 90 degrees to it, drilled to the same size as the through pin that used to be used on the adjuster, that has a spring clip on each end about 1 1/4" long, then just the gentlest of knocks on the pedal with a hammer, right where the pin hole has been drilled, so the clips are easier to get on as slightly too wide to start with.
This puts the angle between the pedal and cylinder slightly offset, but nothing the rose joint at the pedal end can't cope with, but for anyone more fussy you could instead use a bolt through the pedal pivot hole and have the rose joint externaly of the pedal instead of on the inside, would still work perfect.
I used left hand thread and right hand threaded adjuster, with a left hand male rose joint, all bought from ebay, and the size was 5/16, which needs a 6.9mm drill bit to size prior to tapping, of course you also need left hand taps.
I have these of course and happy to drill and tap FOC, just pay the few pennies for postage and materials, will be under £1.50 total delivered, will be made in alloy, and will take me about 45 minutes each adjuster.
I just did the adjuster how I wanted, and kept the (adjustable) pedal height around 3/4" above the brake pedal.
With other parts, namely cylinder sizes a few basic maths will be needed to ensure you get enough movement at the box end but very easy to do, even found a old(new) sherpa slave which is identical to the LR/RR of that vintage.
Most daunting bit is the first hole, as everything relies on this being correct, but even this is marked for you to start with, that's why I decided to go with this particular mark so it would be easier for others to copy.
It goes without saying sharp drill bits are needed, and care as it is very close to the three brake pipes, but easily do able by a competent diyer.
Another aspect is the pedal travel, you don't want the master cylinder to be fully pushed with 4" of pedal travel left, unless you are going to weld on a physical stop, other wise the extra effort exerted will act direct on the bulkhead.
I cut off the existing pedal stop, as the "stop"(at rest height) is made by the adjustment of the adjuster between pedal and cylinder, with the adjuster you can set the biting point where YOU want it to suit yourself.
One of the main reasosn for myself doing this was my left leg is
1 1/2" shorter than my right, so already lost 1 1/2" travel, so can set pedal a little higher to suit me.
tabetha

tabetha

Sales talk, basic physics, obviously cylinders sizes is critical, if in doubt go larger on the master, to ensure you can push enough fluid to fully operate slave, as the fluid is not compressable regardless of what size pipe is used whatever cc is moved at one end of the pipe(master) will translate into that much being "pushed" into the slave cylinder.
tabetha

Matt Baxter

iTrader: (37)

this is what you want to punch a hole in th bulkhead
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...STRK:MEWNX:IcT

oh and if you want I can host the pics

oohogwash1

You could use a punch, I just made a template and drilled some holes around the shape with a drill then used my dye grinder to trim it up, worked great.
I also had to flatten the area a tad to ensure the mount plate was flush and made a backing plate out of aluminium to ensure there was no flex.

tabetha

I've got a selection of the excellent Q max style punches, they are really ace nice clean cut hole, even have a 36mm, but as with a lot of my stuff someone else had them at the time as was using them on a track car for holes, beautiful neat holes, I should have planned a bit better!!
I just used 3mm mild steel each side.
tabetha