Originally Posted by tabetha

Hi Mike,
Got me hydraulic clutch bits all done today, massively easier than I thought it was going to be, even with engine in car(mine was out) you'd do it in a day easy, soon do yours when wanted.
My mates now just cutting my plates, putting one either side of the bulkhead, ther eis a hole in the clutch pedal, right near the part number, about 6mm hole, and this is exactly in line with a dimple on the bulkhead seen through hole, this conveniently is exactly where the drill needs to be centred, just need to gently bend 2 pipes slightly to get master cylinder on, mod pedal to a fitting for rose joint or whatever way you're doing it, knock a rod up.
I'm taking loads of photo's as I go in case they help others, I suspect a slight bash on the trans tunnel would make things better for the slave cylinder on the bell housing, we'll see.
Had some majorly good news about the emerald K3, that you evetually want to go for.
The K3 is no more, the K6 is the new one, 2 of the new features of the K6 are LAUNCH CONTROL and TRACTION CONTROL, these two features can also be added to the previous K3 ecu's as well, so I don't even need to buy the new K6 to get me launch control.
The new K6 is vastly different from the K3, in other ways too, a lot of ecu for £595, still with £280 mapping cost, things just keep getting better.
tabetha

Originally Posted by tabetha

No probs matey, never been a fan of the centre push conversions, good as they are, I mean if you were racing a cossie, what would be easier to do in the pits(or at home), 2 bolts to undo, or a gearbox to take out ?
I away in the morning, but when back on the car will measure the "pin" that went through the clutch ratchet lock pawl, as most likely be able to utilise this through the rose end joint.
Just got to measure the pedal stroke, so I can best fit the pivot point ideally, will give the lightest pedal still with full travel, I need to do this for myself, as need less travel on mine, as left leg 1 1/2" shorter so is the amount(throw) that I can push it, but I'l measure best pivot points for each.
When me dad saw me mucking about with the slave and master cylinder, he said hang on a minute, then informed me he has a new cylinder(slave) as is the same as his old rover sd1 used, commonality amongst bl/LR/RR being very very common, spares assured for years to come!!
I even bought sets of left hand taps in 5/16, and 3/8 for making my own extensions on the rose joints so simple turn to adjust is all that's needed.
Bought these also for other jobs, such as the pita fan belt adjustment on the astra, going to use a left and right hand rose joint for the alternator belt adjustment, saves having to take the strut brace off to adjust each time, and it bloody eats fan belts!!
I'll get the piccies up as I do it, just need to hoik me box out now to put in recon box.
tabetha