I've got shed loads of piccies of doing this on my car, if some kind person could host these for me I'd be grateful, just pm me your email addy.
I decided to use a reinforcing plate either side of the bulkhead, but tbh is probably a bit overkill, just remember having to weld up me dads rover sd1 where the master cylinder ripped out the bulkhead when pedal was pressed!!.
I've taken loads and loads of piccies, had an issue with mine, as only had a step drill up to 32mm, but needed 35mm minimum, ideally 36mm, so managed the last few mm with cutting stones, I have blacksmiths drill bits up to 32mm, my larger 30-54mm set is on loan, must borrow them back!!
I used a strong magnet on the inside of the car to catch 90% of the metal taken out to make the hole.
The brakes pipes need the tiniest of bends can't really notice, I made up a left/right adjuster, to go between the pedal and cylinder, the stroke on mine was 35mm(measured), the ideal pivot point ended up being roughly 10mm below the existing 6mm hole by the part number, but of course at 90 degrees to it, drilled to the same size as the through pin that used to be used on the adjuster, that has a spring clip on each end about 1 1/4" long, then just the gentlest of knocks on the pedal with a hammer, right where the pin hole has been drilled, so the clips are easier to get on as slightly too wide to start with.
This puts the angle between the pedal and cylinder slightly offset, but nothing the rose joint at the pedal end can't cope with, but for anyone more fussy you could instead use a bolt through the pedal pivot hole and have the rose joint externaly of the pedal instead of on the inside, would still work perfect.
I used left hand thread and right hand threaded adjuster, with a left hand male rose joint, all bought from ebay, and the size was 5/16, which needs a 6.9mm drill bit to size prior to tapping, of course you also need left hand taps.
I have these of course and happy to drill and tap FOC, just pay the few pennies for postage and materials, will be under £1.50 total delivered, will be made in alloy, and will take me about 45 minutes each adjuster.
I just did the adjuster how I wanted, and kept the (adjustable) pedal height around 3/4" above the brake pedal.
With other parts, namely cylinder sizes a few basic maths will be needed to ensure you get enough movement at the box end but very easy to do, even found a old(new) sherpa slave which is identical to the LR/RR of that vintage.
Most daunting bit is the first hole, as everything relies on this being correct, but even this is marked for you to start with, that's why I decided to go with this particular mark so it would be easier for others to copy.
It goes without saying sharp drill bits are needed, and care as it is very close to the three brake pipes, but easily do able by a competent diyer.
Another aspect is the pedal travel, you don't want the master cylinder to be fully pushed with 4" of pedal travel left, unless you are going to weld on a physical stop, other wise the extra effort exerted will act direct on the bulkhead.
I cut off the existing pedal stop, as the "stop"(at rest height) is made by the adjustment of the adjuster between pedal and cylinder, with the adjuster you can set the biting point where YOU want it to suit yourself.
One of the main reasosn for myself doing this was my left leg is
1 1/2" shorter than my right, so already lost 1 1/2" travel, so can set pedal a little higher to suit me.
tabetha