SWIFTY

i have removed mine before but a long time ago, and can remember it being a sod.
has any one got a step by step on how to do it, or any tips? thanks.

JTECH James

iTrader: (13)

on what?

nebby

I'm doing mine at the moment and was intending on leaving it in situ, but because I had a leak coming from the rear main seal and the thought of trying to replace a sump gasket upside down and the fact I've had the engine out before I just got a hoist and took the engine out again.

Possibly more work but you've still got to drop the front crossmember disconnecting suspension and brakes so whats worse.

Taking engine out at least you have a better view of everything and I can also get into the engine bay and clean it all down with degreaser for the second time and getting looking clean and oil free like it was when I done last time.

SWIFTY

so you have to disconect suspension and brakes to drop the crossmember. i take it there is no easier way.

JTECH James

iTrader: (13)

4x4?

SWIFTY

sorry mate no a 2wd shapphire

JTECH James

iTrader: (13)

piss easy, an hours work

SWIFTY

thats good then. you got any tips or will it be straight forward when i get under it.

JTECH James

iTrader: (13)

car on axle stands
support engine from above,
disconnect steering column from rack
disconnect ps pump from engine, an slide resovoir out of bracket.
take calipers off hubs.
drop complete crossmember off with struts etc attached
remove sump
drink tea

SWIFTY

thanks

Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

I've just done it. Annoying job.

Propping the engine from above:


Undo front crossmember and ARB and take them off:


Sump off:


Took me a lot of time because I fitted a crap gasket, then did it again with a Cometic gasket.

I fitted a gated baffle:


It's an easy job but it takes a bit of time.

Charlie

AndyPen

iTrader: (24)

Still not done mine as been concentrating on the rear beam. That crank looks like its had some neat work???

Is yours back together - how long did it take Charlie?

Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, mine's back together. I work slowly. An hour to do the sump gasket (use Cometic and get the original Ford seals) and re-do the bolts. Then a couple of hours with a mate to re-attach the crossmember, ARB, etc.

Mine was in pieces for polybushing already though.

The crank has some inscriptions on it. Didn't realise it wasn't standard. How can you tell? What looks different?

Charlie

SWIFTY

thanks people i got it off this morn in no time hardest bit was geting the sump off think i used a bit to much sealent when i put it on last time.

LHD220Turbo

iTrader: (4)

replace the gasket while you are at it

i've got a cometic gasket if your interested, drop me a PM if u like

Bogyoch

Apologies for resurrecting a very old thread.


I have a Westfield with a Cosworth 2WD fitted, and I have a new low profile sump to go on. Without any crossmember, the job should be a piece of cake (!). However, there is one aspect that I'm unsure about, and that is relating to the sandwich plate between the engine and gearbox.


Having looked under the car for the first time today, I see that the plate is very close to the end of the sump, and I was wondering whether there's enough room for the sump to clear it. I can imagine a bit of angling of the sump would be possible, especially removing it, but when it comes to fitting the new sump, is it a straight fit?
I can imagine the half-moon seal might become dislodged when angling the sump back on. I attach a picture of the offending item. I note on Char1ie's picture in this thread that there isn't a sandwich plate fitted.


I also noted that the sandwich plate isn't the correct one, probably from a Pinto, as the holes don't seem to line up with the gearbox bellhousing.


Many thanks for your help in advance.


Richard

cozzy jeff

iTrader: (4)

pulling the engine out will help with this as doing the sump in the car will be fiddly,easier working on an engine stand and sump less likely to leak after.