TurboShed

So my engine is fucked, time for a rebuild.

Currently have T34.63, RS500 I/C, greens etc.

Want to go low compression with the rebuild so I can take the T34 over 400bhp on greys and ultimately, in about a year when I can afford it, get a T35/38 and go for 450bhp.

So what do I need for a low compression rebuild and what should I expect to pay?

Staffi

iTrader: (1)

Opinoins differ, but a T34 with over 400 will be ringing its neck IMO....

If its 450 your after, just get a T38, or a nice GT30

TurboShed

Ok, for the moment forget the turbo, I'll stick with the T34 until I can afford a new turbo - for the moment the price of the engine rebuild is enough! I need suggestions on engine components:

Low comp pistons? Where/what kind?
Do I need a rebore? How much etc?
Other considerations?

Tangodeltasierra3

Buy the COSWORTH nagazine in Smiths and have an hours reading - look at specs of other peoples cars etc & price the bits up etc....Have fun!

TurboShed

There's a magazine called "Cosworth"?

cossiegreg1

its the performance ford COSWORTH edition its really good .if i were you,i would ring woodford garage motorsport 01803863958 and speak to simon(or any of the others ).thats what i did when i wanted a rebuild on mine.He didnt sell me stuff i didnt need.i just told him what spec i was looking for and he told me exactly what i should get.i got a good discount and it was there within 48 hrs.i cant go on about them enough, its a proper honest buisness who are not trying to rob you and just want to sort your car out for you.

lukeytheduke

is there a massive difference between the t38 and GT30 as im having my car built to around 430bhp

Staffi

iTrader: (1)

Price, YES, T38 will be fine for 430

space hoppers

a turbo technics t38 is good for 470 bhp

rabmc

Mmmm this magazine sounds good , going to have a look today

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

when u get to it i would go the gt30 route chap at 450bhp it wont be having the tits rung out of it

cozzie4d

low compression 7.6:1 is enough for 450bhp I'd say.. (forged maybe)
mind the cilinderhead, since it affects your comp. 2wd or 4wd.
- get some h-section conrods,
- bolt it up fully in ARP
- balance/grind the crank
- use high pressure oil pump
- dont save money on thermostat, gaskets, waterpump etc.

that's what I did, the engine should be strong enough to hold about 450bhp (although I'm not going above 370bhp in the near future)

good luck

TurboShed

TBH the money is all getting scary now, I'm thinking I'll keep the bottom end standard, was pretty happy with 350bhp anyway.

cozzie4d

then it'll do indeed..

Danny @ Enhanced Performance

iTrader: (3)

if youve got a 200 block i would long stud it rebore it go 7.5.1 comp ratio even 7.8.1 be fine arp bolts new oil pump rebuild head new guides etc bd14 inlet cam go up to greys and youl have a genuine 400bhp motor after a proper remap give me a buzz if you want a good price and more details cheers

Mr 19"

Why go low comp and different rods? Standard rods are good enough! I,ve been running standard comp for 5 years and standard balanced bottom end with standard bolts without any problems. revs to 7800 rpm.

cozzie4d

I think it depends, if you got it all ripped open, why save a few hundreds of pounds..

it'll make your engine more capable and probably stronger..
allthough depends on your cashflow offcourse

Danny @ Enhanced Performance

iTrader: (3)

theres no probs with standard rods at all but like said if your going to use new pistons you might aswell go lower comp as you can ad more spark to the map therefor getting more tourque and pistons will also last longer and you can always ad more power in the future as for bolts your very lucky to rev so high and not have probs its more a precaution than anything else

cozzie4d

I agree, because you hopefully don't want to rip it open again (soon)..

Mr 19"

Yes. i understand your thinking! I was thinking of the driveability and fuel economy too. Here in sweden we have people running over 600 bhp with standard rods that are shot peened and have ARP bolts. How often do you here someone who has broken a standard rod? I don,t want to be cocky (wrong spelled?) just intrested to have a good discussion and see what you think over there! Another intresting thing is that we use high comp here in many engines. My friend is running 8,8 in comp with close to 600 bhp on regular fuel, and it works fine.

cozzie4d

I think it's definitely worth a discussion (without offense offcourse)..

Another reason why I went for H-section rods is that the std rods from my old engine needed new "bushes" (rings in the smaller side, don't know for sure how their called).
The problem is that renewing the bushes is an expensive job.

Just selling the standard ones + the price of renewing the bushes + a set of ARP bolts, was only 200 pounds cheaper then going for a complete new set alu/titanium Saenz H-section rods (shotpeened, incl. ARP bolts etc)..

To be concrete, I think it also depends on the quality of your current std. shapes, and if they need work or not.

Mr 19"

Okay. Then i also would change rods if the difference in price isn,t more!
How much power do you think a standard rod with standard bolts can take? Intresting to see how you estimate them compared to us in Sweden!

gingeRS

so whats the difference in prices between a

T34
T38
and a GT30

whats the respective power of each one?

cant find any turbo prices on the web

Tarren

Yeah i would like to know that two

DAN P

iTrader: (1)

t34 about 600 -650 new
t38 1100 ish
gt30 1300 ish i think

Staffi

iTrader: (1)

Agree DAN