As I need a set of these for my new car, and to keep machining costs down, I have had to have 12 sets made as these are no longer available to buy.
I had these on my last escort and found them to be the best for adjustment that I have ever found



These are made from high quality aircraft spec aluminium HE30 6082

The only downside to the fantastic mounts is that there is a small mod to do to your strut top to get these to fit, but well worth the effort.

These will also allow you to run your car approx 1" lower than normal adjustable mounts without loosing the 1" of travel.

Any one interested in a pair please let me know

 

pm'd
Rich

 

Awesome bit of kit these are.

I have them on my car. They save a massive amount of time and effort adjusting compared to anything else

 

What gets modded on the shell?

I'm interested just wondered how much of the strut top has to be cut...

 

It's just the raised bit you need to cut off leaving a flat lip so the top mount can sit flat on the strut top

 

Hardly anything has to be cut off. I had mine fitted in one morning

 

much are these?

 

Dave put me down for a set :icon_smile:For a mates 3door
Paul

 

can they be used with koni's? how much?

cheers,
Phil

 

Hi Phil

These are usually used with coilovers, but I dont see why not with Konis?

Have sent PM

 

Do you have any pictures of it while apart?

It looks from the pic like the entire weight of the car will be pulling on the 4 threads holding the top second down into the main block of ally?
Or is there something else underneath which is load bearing and the bolts are just used to centre it?

 

I dont Chip at the moment but will post up when in production.

And this was brought up last time these were released

There are all 8 bolts holding it down which has been perfectly OK on my track car for the last 3 years. But having said that we are designing a securing ring to go below the Strut top to enable even easier fitment and even more strength.

 

It is bolted underneath chip like a normal Eccentric top mount The 4 bolts You see are for adjusting.

 

So the bolts ARE taking the total weight, but you're going to improve it with a steel ring underneath so at least its not aluminium threads taking the weight?
Sounds like a sensible change but I still wouldnt want to take a hump back bridge in it TBH, but if its just for smooth track use I guess it will be fine.

I'll not start a big debate about it again then mate if its the same design as the old ones, as anyone who wants to see my views on it can just look up that thread instead.

 

Normal eccentric mount sits underneath the strut top so if you remove all the bolts it still wont allow the strut (and hence wheel) to just collapse upwards, so its very different, but like I just said to Jacko, I wont "spam" this thread with my safety concerns when its already been addressed on the forum before.

 

need a price on the advert too mate

 

You know what I meant

 

Chip You fucking troll!

We had this same argument over 4 years ago when mike first sold them! Forgetting I had them on my car done track days, days at the pod and pleanty of miles on the road, both ronnie and Jako have run these on there cars witch are both time attack winning cars so safe to say they're tried and tested don't you think?

You didn't like them back then and as you have not sought after a set of top mount you are just spamming this thread or in all honesty you would have got a set of top mounts by now wouldn't you?!

Things don't change....

 

They were dangerous then and they are still now gatecrasher, supporting the entire weight of one corner of your car on the threads of 4 bolts is not a good idea.
There is a reason no mount like this has ever had tuv approval, the design isn't safe, if those threads strip (which with constant adjustment they will eventually) the strut will go through the bonnet.

Great design for adjustability, ideal for testing different settings, bad idea for long term use.
I'm glad my comments were taken on board enough for an extra ring to be used but that doesn't change the fact itsonly the threads taking the full weight of that corner.

People should be aware of this when buying, stick em on a rally car for example and you'll be highly unlikely not to have a failure.

 

It isn't them 4 threads that support it. Their are 6-8 bolts (can't remember off the top of my head) bolting up from underneath.

They have been fine. I still use my car on the road aswell as track and have not had any problems at all.

 

Chip

It has nothing to do with your comments what so ever re the steel ring below

This was my own idea and is only to make the fitment easier for someone, and nothing to do with adding more strength to the mount

I have raced my car very hard over the last 3 years, including Caldwell park mountain taking the full compression and jult of landing.

These things have never moved, come loose, striped threads etc etc.


So why not just butt out and annoy someone else !!!!!!

 

Hi ronnie.
Can you do me a very quick favour then please mate.
Can you jack the car up, remove the 4 bolts, then lower the car back down and let me have a picture of the strut top with it lowered back down please?
Will only take literally 30 seconds to test next time you are changing a wheel.

circuit car loadings are relatively low, and fatigue over time of the threads during adjustment is a big factor, can be mitigated against by lifeing the parts though.

Jacko, apologies mate but if people reply with incorrect info I think the purchaser of such a safety critical component should be offered the truth as well.

I agree with you totally they are by farthe best adjustment wise by the way, really useful way to develop a car but I'd then transfer the settings to a more sturdy solution.

 

Not much difference in the way these get bolted and the way the Escort WRC mounts were bolted to the strut. So what's the problem?

 

I understand what you're saying Chip, but it isn't just them 4 bolts supporting it is it.
It is 12 in total, including the 8 underneath.


As said mate I use my Car on the road still and they have been fine

 

......

 

Those are all holding different parts of the mount, its the 4 on the top that have to bear the weight of the car though as they are attempting to hold the strut top down in order to support the cars weight.

You didnt seem to understand that last time, even after Mike Rainbird finally realised it, so I doubt you will this time either.


My motivation for posting is quite the opposite actually its to STOP people getting badly upset if they end up in a crash as a result of something they didnt understand was a weak point on their car.

The fact the handful of people using these on circuit cars havent had a failure means nothing in terms of what CAN happen with them.

I havent said they were reject for TUV approval, im saying that they would be if anyone submitted them, as they are unsafe.


Of course I dont think one set of settings fits all circumstances on a race car.
For a road car though (which is where my concerns lie, not on circuit cars as no one is likely to die in a circuit car cause of these mounts but in a road car they may well do) it is the case that a lot of people just want to find a good compromise of settings and leave it there.



I personally think thats a terrible idea, but its the ONLY thing these poorly designed mounts could possibly be considered to really have a use doing in the context of a road car, so I was just trying to be at least positive about thier one good thing, which is ease of adjustment, just to show im not all negative about them, the design of the adjustment is great, its just the design of how they support weight that is not great.



And personally I would sooner see jacko end up with 75% not sold like you say is going to happen than to see a single set sold to go on a road car and end up resulting in a fatality.

 

The problem is that the top of these is held down by 4 bolts going into aluminium.
If the threads pull on those 4 bolts, the base of the mount will still be attached to the car, but the strut will no longer be stopped from pushing upwards so that corner of the car will collapse, and the thrads in question are into aluminium, that isnt the case on the WRC ones.

 

no mate, you dont.

Yes it is, the only thing stopping the strut coming upwards is those 4 bolts.

thats to secure the base of the mount to the car, not to stop the mount seperating and allow the strut to move upwards.



You have been lucky so far then mate, and I really hope that good luck continues for you.
Take a hump back bridge before a bend a bit quick (like I like to on the road being a bit of a hooligan and all that) and you'll find that when you land there is a good chance of both your struts coming through the bonnet and you crashing the car as a result.
Thats my worry with these, those threads arent strong enough to support the weight of the car.

 

You just dont get it Chip or give up

Yes there are 4 bolts into the aluminium, which by the way is a very strong top quality material, but there is also 4 high tensile bolts going through the strut tops and through the mounts and bolted from the top, so these do not rely just on the aluminium thread.

Now you fucked up my thread, why not give it a break.
This was all brought up 4 years ago, and now we are repeating everything al over again.

I think by now people understand the downfalls, of which NONE of the previous 10 sets sold over the past 4 years have EVER occured!!!!!!

 

I can see why Chip is getting confused, as he is making assumptions rather than understanding how they work (as he did last time, but I hadn't got the items then, so wasn't sure if what he was saying was true or not) .

The top adjustment collar can be COMPLETELY removed and the car will still be supported by the collar that is attached to the damper (it will just slop around and move freely, as all the top ring does is locate the damper in the position you require), being supported by the ring below that (which is bolted to the chassis top mount). It is this ring that takes all the weight and is bolted to the strut top as Ronnie has described. Obviously a collar under the strut top will help spread the load rather than relying on just washers and nuts.

I think you owe Dave (and me ) an apology for making assumptions .

 

Mike, thats great news if thats the case, thats why I wanted ronnie to remove it and take pictures, although still not ideal thats a big improvement.

Thanks for clearing that up, and apologies to Jacko then if that is the case, that ring wasnt present last time when we discussed these mounts, so thats why I wanted to see more of the design this time.

Im glad my input last time (or someone else noticing the same problems) has improved the design.

Apologies to Jacko then if thats the case, contrary to some peoples opinion, im not here to make trouble, just want people to be safe thats all!

 

Can you post a picture of the component parts please mate?
So that I (and others) can see what Mike is saying is correct, as I will then totally give up, as I will have been wrong during this thread and the last thing I would want is people to get misinformation from me, I am only interested in people getting the truth from threads on this forum, so if I have made a mistake here because they araent the same design as the ones they look just like then I will be the first person to put my hands up, apologise and take back everything I have said and will never mention it again if that is the case, and will also sleep a lot happier knowing they are safe now if that is the case.

 

Basically you are saying that the standard strut tops won't take that loading, as the bolts would have to pull through the steel of the bodywork (and with the collar that Dave has mentioned adding, this would spread the load around the turret rather than relying on 8 high tensile steel bolts, each rated at over 7 tonnes .). Funny you mention jumping, as Dave has got quite a lot of air at Cadwell (where he then crashed off in a ball of flames when he landed ).

As you can see in the picture (now that it has been explained to you ), the top (square) ring is just a location collar. Obviously it is critical that it remains in place, otherwise the damper is free to move around inside the hole that you can see this would leave. This is why these bolts go all the way through the alluminum and are also bolted from underneath the strut top.

So now that you can see that it is just your ASSUMPTION of how these work and not reality, are you going to retract your statements and apologise?

 

The mount is bolted to the body with 8 bolts then the top plate adjuster has 6 bolts that go through the bottom plate, so it's 6 not 4 look at the photo get your facts straight! Last time I thought all the weight was on the 8 bolts and we then come to realise it was infact on the top plate that you pointed out that has 6 bolts

Regardless to that my point is these have never failed, the are on road cars aswell as track cars the world is bigger than Passion ford you know you should try it some time it might surprise you how nice people actually are...

I think your bang out if order as you have no proof these are unsafe ok if you got one and tested the force to strip the threads and it was low I could understand it but you've probably never seen a set in the flesh let alone done any tests to back up your claims

All I see is tried and tested without fails.... Until you prove me wrong you are bang out if order for fucking this for sale thread up with no proof other than what YOU think is right and wrong

I won't be feeding you negativity any more chip I stoped that 4 years ago you crack on...

 

The standard strut tops fit from underneath, and the load is transmitted upwards into the shell, if my ASSUMPTION that the top on this mount is load bearing is incorrect then thats brilliant news as it means they are safe and I was wrong.
I look forward to seeing the pictures of the components parts that prove that to be the case then

Thats great if that is the case mate, it was ally threads taking the load that appeared to be happening, if I have misunderstood though thats great, im genuinely pleased in that case.


It moving would be a problem, but not a catstrophic failure, if there is a collar on the shock that sits under the strut top so would have to push though then thats great as it means it wont be the top part taking the load, if so that is indeed fine and I have made a mistake.


Im sure I will be able to see that once the component parts pics are posted, and if that is the case I will of course apologise. The fact that it was mentioned that these allow you to run lower (ie by moving the strut upwards) made it sound to me like they were now locating the strut top above not underneath the bodyshell, and hence needed to be held down, if that isnt the case though since the addition of a supporting ring underneath the strut top like you are now saying, that would remove the risk of a total collapse and the bolts would only be important in sheer not in tension in which case there isnt a big risk of failure.

 

Its not the bolts holding the mount to the car I had an issue with, its the bolts holding the mount together.

How it LOOKS in that picture is that the strut is going through (and hence supported by) this piece of metal (coloured red):

and that the thing stopping that bit of metal and hence the strut itself from moving upwards is the piece of metal above it held in by 4 bolts.

If there is also something else on the strut taking load and transmitting it to the shell or the base of the mount, then my fears are totally unfounded, and I am VERY glad to be wrong that these arent operating how they look to be.

If that is the case, than can someone please post an exploded or component picture showing how they work so that we all understand properly how they work.

 

Like I said get your facts straight....

 

Lol @ the owned.

If its a in the arse for me because of this new ring thats been added but not shown yet then thats a I'll be very happy to take
I'm not someone who will argue something if they are aware they are incorrect, Im very OCD about facts being straight so absolutely hate the thought of contributing to them not being, so if the pics show what Mike is describing I will be happy to edit my posts or to simply add an apology stating that I was wrong.


So, the reality is that I would LOVE to "get my facts straight mate", as I thought they already were, but if they arent because of this ring, then clearly I will have made a mistake and will want to rectify that, thats why I have asked for pictures.

 

You're still not getting it . This set up (currently) consists of three parts, all of which you can see in the above photo. The supporting ring that mounts to the car's turret (this is the load bearing item), the second rectangular part that mounts to the damper and sits under the load bearing ring and finally the square ring that bolts to the bottom ring and the rectangular damper support. The main purpose of this piece is location of the damper to allow adjustment. However, if this is removed the damper won't pop out, as the size of the rectangular piece is bigger than the hole size in the bottom ring, so although it would rattle around freely, it can't pop out.

The bottom ring is what acts like the turret top. This is bolted to the OE turret top and supports the weight of the car. For it to fail (catastrophically) all eight securing bolts would have to pull through the standard car's turret top. THIS is where a metal ring is being suggest to be bolted UNDER the OE turret top to spread the load of the 8 bolts, so basically the turret top would have to be ripped off for it to fail (or the alloy ring shear, or the rectangular part that bolts to the damper shear in the event of the top part somehow coming adrift). If you look at the part you have highlighted in red, you can see that this is a machined piece that is BIGGER than the bit you have highlighted.

Obviously the top part does offer some additional load bearing capability, hence why the bolts go all the way through and into the original strut top to be bolted from below.

I hope this has adequately explained things?

 

You make me die you come on here shouting the odds saying they are unsafe blah blah I hope he don't sell one set of them and you don't know the first thing about them...