Had my FRS de-catted and an Atmos D/V added about 2 weeks ago. Its been running fine ever since. Then all of a sudden last night, whilst out for a blast, the Engine Management Light came on. Car is still running and boosting fine. Any ideas anyone please??

Cheers
Steve

 

yep it will do.....you removed the cat

you need to get a Mil Eliminator. Think i got mine from torquesteer.co.uk

 

or get a superchips bluefin with the de cat file loaded.

 

yeah if you got the money

Bluefin £499?
Mil Elim £50



I'm not sure wether to get bluefin or get a custom live map done?

 

i ve gone one stage further than that. i am now running a autronics sm4 ecu, live mapped by scc.

 

Cool, what exactly are these Mil Eliminators?? Ive noticed them being mentioned on here before.

 

this is a mil eliminator.

http://www.torquesteer.co.uk/categor...download8.html

it just plugs onto your cars wiring loom and stops the ecu coming on, when you ve removed the cat.

 

Oh right. I could find that page on Torquesteer.co.uk, which just has details about installing them, but they dont seem to actually sell them. Anyone know where else to get em??

 

just give martin from torquesteer a ring on: 08707542264

 

...or make one for less than £5 with parts from Maplin (OK that's without a nice plug and socket).

 

How do you do this??

 

...as I typed it (in my sleep ), I dreamt what would happen, and I was right.

I promised a complete 'How To' on the FFOC site several months ago...

This is the circuit diagram:



The reason I say it cost a fiver, is because for ease, I build them on strip board. They also need to be complete sealed to prevent moisture/water getting in. I use heatshrink and silicon. Although only small pieces are needed, you have to buy enough to do several at a time !

If you want it neater (like the ones imported from the US) you need to get the plugs and sockets from a breakers who doesn't want the complete harness or sensors (or their damaged so he doesn't mind). They don't have to be blue ones as the polarisation lugs can be filed off the plug, and new slots cut in the socket.

I have some spare wired ended ones liying around somewhere if you don't mind cutting into the blue sensor wires to solder it in.

Martin

 

Erm, rightey-o!! I would exactly call myself electrically minded in any way so il probably just leave it. Dont really fancy taping into the wiring loom!Hopefully getting the car Blue-finned sometime before christmas anyway, so that should sort it out. Will the car be ok, running with the light on for a few months??

 

Yes the car will run OK, but if you get a 'real' fault and the light's already on......

I've blown head gaskets (on a NA Focus engine) without the ECU switching to Limited Operation.

I'll see if I've got some servicable plugs and sockets buried in the glory hole somewhere.

Martin

 

Yeah suppose like. Would be safer to get the light off asap.

Right cheers. Anyone else on here made their own?? How difficult is is?? Also, how hard is it to install??

 

i have put mine on today, i disconnected the batt, plugged it in left it for half an hour reconnected the batt, the light went out but after driving for half an hour it came back on???

any ideas, should it do that then go off after a couple of days???

cheers

 

No it will stay on until you reset the ECU again, then do the same thing. The only ways to turn it off safely are:

1) Put a cat back in,

2) install a MIL eliminator in the second sensor,

3) find someone who knows the encryption and can write over that part of the ECU software.

Martin

 

what scond sensor??

i thought once i had put a mil eliminator in the fault would clear???

so it was a waste of £60

 

There are 2 oxygen sensors.

The first is at the exit from the turbo and has a green connector.

The second is at the beginning of the flexi-pipe. Its job is in fuelling control to speed up the cat light-up, and confirm cat health in normal running.

Its this second function that causes the MIL to be on after de-cat, either because its screwed in and doing its job, or because people just blank off the tapping and disconnect it.

The ECU still has to receive a signal from the second (blue) sensor. Having the signal passing through the MIL Eliminator creates enough fluctuation to make the ECU think there is still a working cat in the system.

£60 . I still make them for a £5 (2 PCBs ready to go). the expensive bit is wiring them in.

Martin

 

i have plugged it in to the first sensor on top of the down pipe, oops?

it wont damage the car will it?

ill take it off later and plug it in the other sensor and disconnect the batt again,???

cheers buddy

 

Mine does not work and the light is always coming on even with the mil attached.

 

Have you checked the DTCs ?

What do they indicate ?

Martin