Hi peeps. How big of a job is it to remove the fuel tank from my S1 ?

 

It isnt,just 4 bolts and the strap that supports much of its weight.Then the fuel pipes,easy enough.Even easier if you can put the car up on a ramp.Regards Micky

 

3 13mm's and a bit of wiggling, make sure its as empty as poss and disconnect the fuel pump , watch the wires to the top tho, they go under the rear seat and into the top of the tank for the gauge sender (if its same as s2)

 

Cheers guys.

 

Cheers guys.

 

heard the filler necks can sometimes break when removing, is this true?

 

never had it myself but i guese it coudl happen, cold would make it more likerly too my bumper smashed to bits when i gave it the boot when i was changin engines last week, friggin engine mount it got me propper angry

 

Easy!

done this not long ago on mine.

pipes are plastic from the filler neck, but they change to rubber half way down to go onto the tank end so shouldnt break if your carefull.
watch the wires clipped round the pass side of the tank.
filler pipes are rubber and plastic, the ring clips might be rusted so new ones are an idea.
good idea as said to get it on a pair of ramps, drive on ones are fine.
remember and swap the small breather at the top over, thin, thin pipe.

I thot my tank was more or less empty but got around 5-6litres out of it once i took it off

sender - might be tight on, but chap it with a flat screwdriver and a hammer, working your way round it and it should come off np!

 

cheeRS. Any precautions when it's all ready to fire up again ? Is air in the fuel lines a problem after doin this ?

 

nah not really, ive never had any issues, fill it up prime it a few times and away u go

 

dry, no the fuel pump will prime till the pressure is built back up, the air in the system if their is any will be taken out by the fuel system, cant mind what part, accumulator maybe?

 

http://www.auto-solve.com/mech_inj.htm

 

Tombra, Great link! very helpfull

you dont happen to know these 2 pin numbers for the fuel pump relay?

sorry to steal your thread dry


and also if i do not have a fuel pump relay, but bridged instead, would it cause bad starting from cold if:

"The voltage supply to the regulator is from the fuel pump relay, because if the ignition was on without the engine running, all enrichment would be removed as the bi-metalic strip would be heated prematurely and the driver would not benefit from the cold engine enrichment"

 

Do this help you mate?

As for the topic, I don't have a clue, but will be dropping the tank in my S2 at some point next winter

 

Tombra, thankyou, but im unsure what the website means and what pins i bridge to get my fuel pump running.

am i using pins 30 and 87 or 15 and 87

"When fault finding or fuel pressure testing it will be necessary to have the pump running when the engine is stationary, this can be achieved by bridging terminals 30 and 87 with a small length of wire. For safety reasons it is good practice to insert a ten amp fuse into the bridging wire"


"CAUTION :- do not be tempted to by-pass the relay by bridging between terminal 15 (switched live) and 87 (fuel pump) as this will start the car, but is potentially dangerous."

It's a series 1, with what im told is S2 fuel pump wiring, so i assume i need the purple fuel relay instead o the S1's green relay?

 

vroooom ptssssh: bit confused by what your trying to do, exscuse my ignorance, but i can help you on this subject

Firstly, those 2 relays you have pictured, 1 is a XR3i/Series 2 fuel pump relay (purple one), the other, is just a 40Amp SPDT throw relay (not a fuel pump relay). Did someone tell you it was?

Also i see you say about cold starting. The auxiliary air device which contirbutes to cold start idling, is connected to the fuel pump, so basically as soon as the fuel pump starts running, the auxiliary air device heats up. So if you bypass the relay with a wire link, the fuel pump and auxiliary air device would be running well before u start the car, leave it too long and the auxiliary air device will of already closed up, making it run like a bag of nails until up to temperature?

If this isnt what u needed, or u need anymore info give me a shout (i wired my car from MK3 XR3i (series 1 equivalent) to Series 2 running gear.

 

Was having this nightmare myself, about finding the right pins etc.
The simplest way to bridge the relay is to find the two thick wires running down to the purple relay. then use a pice of wire with a 10 amp fuse on it, between theese two, and the pump should run.

Did this myself whan I had problems getting fuel to the injectors.

 

safechav, I assumed the green relay was a series 1 relay! as i have never saw one and only knew my car was fitted with series 2 fuel pump wiring (i was told this?) purple base i assumed purple relay is what i needed!
So my fuel pump is bridged with a wire, if i turned my ignition key without giving the pump long enough to prime before turning the car over would this be ok? i ask as i usually give it a second to prime, then start the car. it does run like a bag of nails for around 30-40 seconds! and then runs perfect!

Thanks for the help

Tombra, I have the ones bridged in the picture above! Are these the correct pair to use?

Again Sorry dry for hijacking your post

 

Hijack away mate. lol

 

vroooom ptssssh: To be honest you would have to leave the fuel pump running a good couple of minutes before starting to majorly affect the cold start, sounds more like your car is miss-firing when you first start it (some do this), basically the auxiliary air device bypasses the throttle housing and allows a little extra air flow to raise the idle speed at cold, so the worst that could ever really happen is it would keep stalling and/or idle very low and lumpy. Letting it prime for a second is fine, the relays allow priming for 1 second to ensure a positive start, personally i would just get yourself a relay, safer that way anyway.

As for the green relay, its not a series 1 relay no The series 1 relays are quite big actually, i dont know why theyre different to be fair, but i expect yours has been changed as the original relay packed up and theyre very hard to get hold of, and a lot of ŁŁŁ i expect.

 

safechav, cheeRS

 

No problem

 

series one relays are silver and about Ł38 + vat from ford

 

bloody hell

 

Stick with your purple ones i would! Always good to know though, i thought they were NLA from ford.

 

i had a very similar problem on my first s1 in the end i ran a bridged wire off the ignition... previous to that i had a inline switch but that was a bit dangerous lol.

then low and behold have exactly the same problem on my currant s1, i wanted it sorted and knew how long i spent on teh last car so sent it away to a garage... they said teh modded something, what i did find was that the big yellow relay type thing behind the dash bolted on the bulkhead was disconected.. i have no dash ilumination now for low oil,low water,low fuel etc but that major sensors and warning lights are fine ie low brake fluid,low oil pressure.

i tryed reconnecting the yellow thing teh thing wouldnt fire, disconnected it and its been fine so weather thats a quick fix i dont know. i also had 2-3 relays that all work tryed them and made no difference

 

They disconnected your Auxiliary Warning Unit

I couldn't live without mine, the petrol and coolant lights are INVALUABLE IMO.

I dont know why they would of disconnected that it should have no influence at all, doesnt go anywhere near the fuel pump, all i can think is maybe before you had the car someone has messed about with the wiring.

Does it not annoy you not having it?

 

no doesnt bother me mate, low water,low oil,low brake pad,low fuel,low screenwash.

i have just traced through the curcuit diagram and your right there doesnt seem to be anything that should effect the ignition... im 99% sure that when i saw it disconected i reconnected it and the car would not start again until i disconnected it.

like i said i had a serious problem with the car initially, which was electrical and i couldnt work it out what it was so a garage sorted it and touch wood it hasent let me down since.

 

I thought as much, sounds like its had a bit of handy work done to it somewhere, well fairplay if doesnt annoy you, i wouldnt be without mine (although when the petrol light is available you do tend to push your luck dont you ) and them fucking dipsticks NEVER work do they lol!

Well, it cant be a massive problem, the fuel pump relay only has 5 connections, get it sorted and get everything working its always a nice feeling, more than willing to help if you need it

 

i might have a go at trying to sort it out properly as like u say they are handy to have the lights,

any way appolgises to dry for a proper hijack of his thread lol, how did u get on anyway? one thing i did do when replacing mine was repainting the tank with hammerite in silver and the strap in black .. it will then outlast the life of the car