luxembourgrst

after 100 km of mineral oil 15w 40 i changed today the oil with filter and put castrol 10w60 edge i know 10w50 is maybe little bit better

but know i try this

Canada1

Any news on this oil pressure problem?

luxembourgrst

today i put castrol edge 10w60 oil in an at idle i have now 1.2-1.3 bar pressure at 83 degree oil an before with 10 w 40 basic oil i only had 0.9-1 bar at idle

it s mean the oil also plays for the oil pressure

Canada1

Gear oil will also build higher oil pressure - Too thick and you will not get enough oil flow through the passages resulting in spun bearings.

luxembourgrst

no i think for escortrsturbo over 170 bhp 10w 50 or 10 w 60 will be alright

Red_bull

Yea the news was the yesterday my turbo has been checked and it also was in bad shape, but nothing as bad that it could cause a oil pressure loss. I took a standard turbo of the shelf and new oil pump again (old was is 4000 km old)

Now i foocked up one of my main bearings (wanted to check tolerance on it) by tighting it the wrong way around.

Might still be able to use it, so then tomz i will give it a new try with oil pressure maybe.

I will run a 10W40 again for some kilometers then switch to the 10W50 that i have

Red_bull

I think i just found the cause of all my trouble!

Thanks to "Fraggle..." with giving this hint:

Did your builder check the crank at the point it engages with the pump?

Mine was so worn it was "clipping" the pump gear , not actually driving it, thus low oil pressure.. could see the scoring, pump gears were erm worn an all!!

Look at these photo's!









One side is a bit bad and the other side is a bit more, but is this enough to lose my oil pressure?

Red_bull

Checked my photo's from back in the days when i build the engine the first time (oct 2007)

You can see that the crank was damaged there already....

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Yes looks like it's been slipping round and not driving the pump as it should! Good suggestion from Fraggle!

Red_bull

It's not really slipping round right? But the little cut outs shouldn't be there and make the wheel be in the wrong position causing no good compression of the oil = no good oil pressure.

Correct right? Shame that none of the engine builders (the people who grind the crank, dunno how you call em) saw this problem



I need a new crankshaft now

Red_bull

Ok today i took a look inbetween of my parts and found another crankshaft, but it is not undamaged either....

Altho its deff less then my current one





So i checked with open oil pump what the pump did with the extra play, but then i realised these pumps already have a massive play on the wheel

I pushed the wheel further over so its not hanging on the damaged part and the wheel is of a 4000 km old burton pump

Look at this
http://s216.photobucket.com/user/dut...5AAEC.mp4.html

If they have as much play is the damage on the crankshaft really my problem? Ofc it won't help, but is this everything?

I'm into doubt again and so fed up of the car

My knowledge is not high enough to determine or this is my whole oil pressure problem

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Hmm.. that is a lot of play in your video, but once engaged it certainly doesn't look like it could slip round so should work fine.
To be honest I've never looked at this before so don't know if it is normal or not?!

luxembourgrst

seriusly i don t think this little thing is your problem when the oil pump turn it turn
is not a little play that you gonna have not so much oil pressure .....

when it turns it turns and is ok no ?...


i also don t know if my engine is ok with the oil pressure i only know that after the rebuid
i put 5W40 full syntethic COMMA oil at this brand of oil is a little bit shitty very liquide

and i had a oil pressure of only 0.7 -0.8 bar at idle
( i didn t drove the car with this oil )

then i put some basic mineral 15W40 oil in and i had 0.9 - 1 bar pressure
(i drove it 100 km )

then now i put 10 w 60 castrol edge oil and know i have like 1.1 -1.3 bar pressure

every time at hot engine fans was ON and oil temperature like 83 degree

is only to say that the oil also change the system pressure

this is what castrol says : Every drive is a test of your oil's strength, so you need an oil that can respond and adapt to extreme pressures.

Castrol EDGE is up to 40% stronger* at reducing metal to metal contact compared to a leading competitor. So you can drive with absolute confidence, knowing your engine oil can handle the pressure.The oil must withstand over 10,000kg of pressure per square centimetre
or there http://castroledge.com/tested-to-per...gth-technology

Red_bull

Problem is i only have 2 bars at 4000 rpm and all of you have much more there.

Red_bull

I got a message back from Fraggle... and he says that his crank looked exactly the same. And i think his message said that changing only the crank solved the problem. But English is not my native language, so i send a message back to verify this 100%

Maybe i still found my issue!

Red_bull

After going on summer holiday and having my girlfriend at my place for a long time (she lives abroad) i had to let her go again, so new times to spend with my other love in the garage. Altho i hate this one sometimes like now! haha

Since the last message i put a different turbo on and i have a new oil pump again. Besides that i ordered a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I will be able to verify my VDO sensor. Altho i'm pretty sure its telling the true!




Hopefully the pressure sensor and the changes i made wil give me a new chance again. Else think i'm gonna run the car without rockercover to see if i can see any strange things while it runs (i have the crankcase ventilation off so i can do it)

nigel b

regardless of how warn the nose is on the crank once the play has been taken up it will drive the pump the same

Red_bull

But cause of the play the wheel can move (minimum) to a different place in relation to the outer wheel. But as they have some play standard this effect wil be as minimum that it won't be my problem

Dubs44

iTrader: (1)

i don't know if anyone has suggested this but some of the rst blocks came out of the factory with .4mm oversized main bearing housings. as far as i know there was a machining fuck up at fords so they used oversize main bearings rather than scrapping a load of blocks. if you've put the wrong bearings in surely that would cause oil pressure issues. something worth checking

Red_bull

All of the main caps; conrod caps have been measured to make sure we took the right bearings.

Every seems to be right... This engine really confuses me! Hopefully i can give a new update soon!

Thanks for thinking with me! All suggestions are welcome!

Red_bull

Finally some good news! Car is driven today with the other turbo and brand new oil pump and finally on 15-W40 Halfords oil (cheap crap) i'm running 1,2bar at 1000 rpm with 90 degrees oil! Also at 2000 rpm i'm around 3 bars! Everything seems to be solved. As i lost hope the car is build up but not complete yet (only drivable). Next up - fix 1 slow moving window - Finish up engine - MOT - run in - new turbo & set up (not sure yet) - and then new oil and a lot of miles!! Also my VDO is slightly lower then the new mechanical meter of ebay! But the mech one has also much more clear read out

Tips from me after everything
- take mechical meter next to electric
- always change oil pump on rebuild

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Great to hear some good news for you!

Red_bull

haha first positive message in a few years

luxembourgrst

halleluia

anvini

I´m glad you had solve the problem.
I have just read all the post (fast reading)...
So all the problem was caused by the oil pump??

Red_bull

or maybe the turbo

One of the problems is having a low oil pressure engine. Putting new pump in [Without doing bearings]. Then doing bearings [Without putting new oil pump on again] still low pressure and then changed turbo and pump + got myself a better read out to see what idle pressure i had. But for sure my pressure above 2000 rpm really increased, so something was fooked

luxembourgrst

turbo oil leak

Rsturbo519

Hi Canada 1 I have a question for ya.
Can you confirm if they changed the block design at all on the cvh regarding the main bearings. I know in 88 they changed the main bearings from a full 360 degree groove to a 180 degree grove. And when doing this drilled an extra hole in the main crank journal to supply the same amount off oil to the big ends?
Now my problem is I have a 86 crank ( only 1 hole in main crank journals )and a 88 block.

So I assuming I need to use the shells that are grooved on both halves so I don't start the big ends.

The thing is when the you install the shells into the block and put on the cap ( without the crank installed ) there is a slight step or miss alignment between the 2 shells.
What I really need confirmed is did they change the Block at all when they changed the shell design. I need to know if I can use the the early she'll desighn ( grooved in both shells ) in the later block?

Any help would be great as I can't get any solid information on this

haz87

Early shell design in later block should be fine. Pretty sure i did it years ago or possibly the other way round, however, either way I dont recall any misalignment.

Rsturbo519

Thanks for reply haz. Do you know If cranks after 88 had to holes in there mains crank journal? I have heard this off someone. So if you have 2 holes you can use the half and half shells as the big ends are getting the same mount off oil.