Canada1

I am happy that you are still enthusiastic!
I started engine mods when I was 15. I had a father that was a mechanic - it sure helped when I had questions.
It is always more enjoyable when you can say "I built the engine".

Let us know how things go.

Cheers

Red_bull

Gearbox is off! Going for the crankshaft now!

Red_bull

Company that will grind my crankshaft recommened to take out everything as i'm almost there already. Also to check my camshaft. They kinda talked me over with some good reasons.

So will get out the rest in a few days.

Also i found out that my first oil pump was shit. The inner wheel and outer wheel had a hight difference. For the rest the pump looked pretty good. Also at the company they saw it after a while.

Anyway i'm going big also for my wallet. That is one of my main concerns. I put so much money in this car. Every time i think don't stop now it's almost done. Like now....

Try to keep it out of my mind and go for it again!

Will update in a while!

AstoN_B

iTrader: (1)

Good stuff.

It is heartbreaking when you're over the last hurdle and something else comes up.

It can make you wonder if it's worth it!

Red_bull

anybody knows if the CVH head has another pressure valve for the oil? like the one in the oil pump it self? This is one of the stories that reached me?!

Another thing that i was wondering. I got my head complete and i did a lot of work but have no idea how the bearings of the head are in?

Is it like this that if the bearings are worn out the head can go into the bin? Solid bearings in the head it self or can they be taken out?

AstoN_B

iTrader: (1)

The cam journals run directly in the head, if the head is worn yes it does need replacing really. Or you could get a slightly oversize cam and have it machined to fit.

The Newman cam i got was too tight in the head, so i had the cam journals linished, nice snug fit afterwards.

You can measure the inside diameter of the journals in the head using a bore micrometer, the measurement for the cam journals are in the Haynes manual but no measurement for inside the head is given. An engine builder should be able to recommend a clearance for the cam bearings. Measure the cam, then inside the head and work out what clearance you have at the moment.

As far as im aware there is no valve in the head. The oil comes up through the block from the gallery and into the head's supply system.

luxembourgrst

i did my first escort rs turbo ride today after 6 year rebuild on the begin i had shitty 5 w40 COMMA full synthetic oil i had 0.5bar oil pressure at idle on 80 degree oil temp i only start it never drove it with this oil the pressure was not normal i also thinking about the crankshaft bearing....

then i put 15 w 40 mineral oil and i have 1.0 -1.5 bar presure at idle 900 rpm and at 2000 rpm i have 2.5 bar pressure looks 10 times better


but i gonna put know again castrol edge full syntetique 10w60 oil in i know maybe 10w50 will be better but i think because i only drive the car at hot summer 10w 60 will be also allride

Red_bull

I also had solves many little problems before i made this decision to start driving. Also that the people around me (with less knowledge then me) said that i was taking things to precise. Go and drive and have fun.. In the end not the best decision. But at that moment i was done with working and wanted to enjoy.

And i did and now i have to pay for it. But soon i can enjoy again with new oil pressure.

I also had the rockcovers breaking out of my head after 1.5 street on my first run to MOT. Head went off and away for helicoils all around. After it stoped the car again to switch oil pump. And again for a new one. And again for a broken hydraulic camshaft follower... Maannn so many things haha!

Tomorrow i go to the car again to take the rest out. I'm just so afraid of the head I'm so afraid for a worn cam and head! It has a flowed head and tuned cam. If i have to replace all this then i can work a month for nothing...

AstoN_B

iTrader: (1)

A good quality 10w50 will be fine. I use 5w50 in mine which seems to circulate quicker on cold starts than the 10w40 i had before.

Make sure you give it long enough before changing to synthetic. Approx 100-250 miles on mineral, then change to semi-synthetic for around 1000 miles then use the best synthetic you can afford.

botters

iTrader: (2)

if you look at the oilways for the cam some have brass inserts in them to restrict oil flow it is best to take these out as it gives far more oil to the camshaft

Red_bull

@botters

Did you do this to your own head too? What was the influcence on oil pressure? As you create more flow pressure wil drop isn't it?

any photo's?

Red_bull

Few updates

- The engine is completly out
- I took the cam out for a quick look and it's not like it's a drama. Looked ok to me. Tomorrow i will give it a clean and a better look in good light
- Old (first used) oil pump was bad. See photo, the inner gear is less thick then the outer one


- Is this a plate that block off the oil returning out of the filter? It's not stuck or something, but can i take it out just to have a look?





When i opened my rockercover i found some sludge. My engine always had lil bits of this, but i guess all you guys know this right?

Canada1

The sludge under the valve cover with very few miles on the engine looks like it may be a head gasket issue as well.
What brand head gasket did you use? What head bolts?

Also have the cylinder head checked for correct camshaft to cam bearing clearances.
Also check for lifter clearances.
These could all lead to low oil pressures.

Red_bull

For the sludge i have to make the remark that i run an open carterventilation without filter! So with heating up and cooling down i guess water from humidity comes into oil which makes this sludge right?

Head gasket brand i need to check it's in my garage, headbolts dunno if can find a brand on them.

Are more people thinking this little sludge it already from a head gasket issue?

Cylinder head and bottom end are all checked today. First thing the engine builder noticed was this



Due to having my VDO oil pressure sensor and temp sender in i had to turn it always away from the oil filter. It kept wet so sometimes thought it wasn't tight enough.. Wel i fucked up the bottom end.

First we checked the outer diameter of the main bearings. These are all ok!
Then big end out diameter also ok! Camshaft bearings in the head and camshaft itself ok! Later on the day they also welded my bottom end, so i can use it again

For lifter clearance i don't see the problem yet leading to low oil pressure. I have hydraulic lifters


Anyway i wanna say thanks to all who keep reacting and keep following my topic!

JFB Tech

If the lifter bores are worn, or the lifters themselves then the oil which is supposed to pressurise them will just leak away back down into the sump. This will result in low oil pressure.

Red_bull

Ok understand it now! Pretty sure they are ok as they are a pain in the ass to get out, but i will give them a check tomorrow!

luxembourgrst

damm for the bottom end i had the same broke but it go enough deep inside that you can drill a new bore. and put again a t piece for oil pressure sensor....

Canada1

I am happy you are getting it all sorted out.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

How can the main bearings be ok? You can see in the photo that at least that one is heavily scored!

Red_bull

The outside diameter. So the damaged onces are the inside. We checked the bottom end and caps lets say without bearing. Its my langauge issue again haha.

Sorry

Red_bull

My headgasket brand is "Glaser"

Should i have used a special head gasket for 220bhp?

and canada1 you where right see this:

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Ah I see!
Standard Ford (Payen) gasket is fine for 350bhp+

Red_bull

Are you 100% sure? Cause i found this in another topic?

Payne & victor are not as good as ford motorcraft gasket.


So i assumed it would be the motorcraft onces. Guess i'm gonna order mine tomorrow at Ford. Extra costs again as i will have two now

JFB Tech

Victor Reinz made the Ford gaskets. I have bought Payen head gaskets before and they had Victor Reinz printed on the gaskets themselves. Officially, Reinz gaskets are made by Dana and Payen are Federal Mogul. Both are well respected original equipment suppliers to the motor industry.

Canada1

It looks like the head gasket on all cylinders have moved - or been stretched from combustion. Has the block deck been resurfaced? Has the cylinder head been resurfaced?
It looks like the surfaces were not flat - or the head gasket was not torqued properly.
Many shops do not resurface the top of the block - this should be done. It is cheap insurance.

Red_bull

Yea i just put the headgasket back on lose. Just to show the broken piece. The headgasket is just not in place. Else the cylinder match with the headgasket. Everything was resurfaced in my first rebuild!

I already get a victor and Reinz headgasket, so i won't have to order a second ford one then. Guess this will go longer then my glaser! haha

Red_bull

And again i found more



Rust in the sump. Photo is after a clean already. Maybe thus helped with getting dirt in my oil. Its the part behind the oil pump. Guess it doesn't see any oil and mayne i cleaned it with brakecleaner before putting it on. Anyway its good again now!


Motor is half way in (botomend is in) gearbox will go in on saterday and think i will finish up in the weekend. Really hope i can tell that i have some decent oil pressure!

haz87

Ahhhh at all that sealant

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Yes do NOT use any sealant on the sump gasket!

Red_bull

I found here on the forum that people recomended to use sealant on the gasket for a better fitting of the gasket.

Is the sealant bad for the rubber?

Anyway on my engine now there isn't any sealant used as i could fit is easily now the engine was out.

Red_bull

Ok engine is fitted with a mineral 15W40 cheap stuff for running in

With the starting of the engine i kept it around 2000-3000 for a while to get lubricant into the head. After a while the turbo started to smoke a bit. Also i had a drop hanging on the wastegate valve.

Also have a lil leakage on my sandwhich plate but nothing major. I quite now after some test drives leaving me with this

- Turbo still smokes a bit (less then after the running standing on 2000-3000 rpm
- Leakage on the sandwhich plate

Measured these oil pressures:
4000 rpm - 2 bar // 29 psi
3000 rpm - 1.8 bar // 26 psi
2000 rpm - 1.7 bar// 25 psi
idle - 0.8 bar // 11.5 psi


I would say still shit and the turbo smokes so i want to go for a different turbo. Now i'm running a hybride but its too big for the car anyway, so i want to fit back a standard turbo and not continue this driving with too low pressure


The small leakages i have (i even drove for a while with it) won't do anything major in oil pressure does it?

I just ran out of time i know i have to fix the leakages, but i just wanna share my info and hear everybodies opinion as my head is banging from this shit car atm.

It drives me crazy!

Red_bull

Oil pressure at idle from the gauge

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

something is badly amiss 2 bar at 4k rpm is no good, as soon as you touch the throttle the pressure should jump into life.
all I will say is do not drive it until its rectified.

Red_bull

I bought other oil aswell as i wanted to use the current for flushing. Any change that other 15W40 will solve?

No right

Also the leakages won't cause this low pressure right? I mean it's not leaking out in loads

I just found that i still have a std turbo (i think laying around) gonna build that one in it i think. Also take off the elbow of my current to see if there is oil pouring out of the turbine

Red_bull

again a brand new oil pump ordered. I WILL FIND THE PROBLEMS

luxembourgrst

waht temperature oil?

normaly at 80 celcuis degere idle 1 bar 2000rpm 2.8 bar approxely

Red_bull

All at about 83

luxembourgrst

hmm my to at idle i have like 0.7 bar 0.8 bar

Red_bull

but you have the 2.8 bar at 2000 rpm right? I'm not even making that on 4000 rpm

What oil are you running?

Tomz i will get my new oil pump and saterday i will build this one in and take a look to change the turbo aswell

luxembourgrst

burton normal oil pump 15w 40 basic oil