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Are they worth it?

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Old 14-05-2012, 04:54 PM
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Fst
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Default Are they worth it?

I'm looking at getting a erst and wondering if someone can enlighten me on what to look for in one. I am in no rush for one so can look at a few. I know they rust on battery tray and arches all the usual spots but what about engine common problems and anything helpful thanks.
Old 14-05-2012, 05:14 PM
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Ryoishikawa
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Rust on floor pans . Windscreens, pillars, slam panel , battery tray. Arches . Chassis rails, engine must have good service history . Bottom end knocking is common. Also smokeing from turbo normal things for a old car really
Old 14-05-2012, 05:17 PM
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mgtkr1
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camshafts wear at a rapid rate on cvh engines. i dont think they have any major problems reliability wise, except the fuelling is critical and as such many a melted piston occures. despite its limitations the fuelling system is better than people often say. the fact that its 20 years old means it can go out of sync and run the motor lean. mfi engines can be good for 200hp if the fuel systems in good nick and has been setup correctly. any time you alter the settings ie boost upward you must have the fuelling checked. the fact the turbo is a garret or should be, the engine oil is changed regular with top notch synthetic and correct fuel is used ie bp ultimate, v power or super unleaded then the motor is pretty good. be sure to use genuine parts/gaskets and be on the lookout for rust. other than that there great fun and potentiolly rapid cars. my base model, turboed gives many a chav a raised eyebrow in his slow but noisy halford mobile. 130hp, 130 mph and 0-60 sub 8s aint bad. add 70hp and things are real fun,quick without been un drivable. 200hp with fwd is plenty.
Old 14-05-2012, 05:24 PM
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mentalasanything
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As above really plus rear chassis rails, sills, front crossmember and boot floor are all vulnerable to rust but all easily checked.

Take it for a spin, you should be able to give it some stick in any gear without smoke or rattles. Also I've found that if the fuelling is incorrect, engine braking/decelleration in gear can be very juddery. Give it some stick in second, get some boost registered and then just let off the throttle and see what it does.

Led

Last edited by mentalasanything; 14-05-2012 at 05:25 PM. Reason: Damn autocorrect.
Old 14-05-2012, 06:15 PM
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So pretty much rust every where then is never a good thing but it is old so a little is ok. Full service history is a big one I never buy a car without 90%+ of fsh. Do I go for a highly modded engine and what are common mods. I know the cams get changed and to EFI as well.

Some great answers here thanks
Old 14-05-2012, 08:05 PM
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mentalasanything
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Define what you call service history. Do you class a hand written record by the owner a service history?

For me, a receipt for a recent rebuild will be much more valuable than 10 dealer stamps from 20 years ago. With cars like this you will find that they are regularly maintained by their owners. I have receipts for all the oil and filters I've bought to service it, plus receipts for everything right down to nuts bolts and washers. So I would say you need to be meticulous and have a look through what recent stuff they have.

General mods to an MFi engine would be air filter, exhaust and a bloody good setup. Next on my list would be a front mount intercooler, a chip, increase the boost and a good setup. From there you will need to chat to your tuner to see what works best.

But you're right, EFi is becoming a well trodden path which with a chip, beige injectors, an FMIC, an exhaust and filter and a bar of boost you can see upwards of 180bhp (it's 195 spec but 180-190 is more realistic)

Lee
Old 15-05-2012, 10:11 AM
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they are 20+ years old so will always have little niggly problems.

But would i buy another one damn right for the brief moments where it all works correctly fuck me it puts one hell of smile on your face!.. you never forget the feel, sound or smell of a rs turbo!

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Old 15-05-2012, 10:40 AM
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E980VTJ
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try starting it from hot a good few times,check the carpets if there wet,open the sunroof and check for rot,listen for typical tapping cvh engine,any smoke on startup or on boost,warped disc's also common,keep it running a little and keep an eye on the temp also the fans should kick in,also hpi check or sighns of damage,unless your paying Ł4k imo a average Ł2k you should expect it to have had a bit of welding and a splash of paint but should be a tidy useable car,the other way I look at things is a second hand decent engine can be had for arond Ł400 but rot is a bigger problem they drive like shit,you will always be swearing at it but when it works and comes on boost then its worth it
Old 15-05-2012, 11:10 AM
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IMO not worth it, had the all 3 S1,S2, Frst.

Prefered the S1 and FRST.
Old 15-05-2012, 11:28 AM
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open the sun roof and have a look can be guilty of rotting there too
Old 15-05-2012, 08:18 PM
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If set up correctly are they useable as in capable of doing a 150 mile journey. And what's the ride like are they better on standard springs or updated I won't be doing track days or anything I'd be to scared lol.
Old 15-05-2012, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Robs Frst
IMO not worth it, had the all 3 S1,S2, Frst.

Prefered the S1 and FRST.
Why are they not worth it I got told off a friend who had a s1 and s2 that the s2 was more useable as the s1 was harder to get parts due to being less sold?
Old 15-05-2012, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Fst
If set up correctly are they useable as in capable of doing a 150 mile journey. And what's the ride like are they better on standard springs or updated I won't be doing track days or anything I'd be to scared lol.

Done a 230mile trip and it hasnt been set up yet didn't have any problems

I have 20mm drop all koni's all round . They are hard cars anyway on today's roads as the council dont look after the roads anymore
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