hy after a engine rebuild it don t start when the blue is on the cold start injector

an the black plug on the auxiliary air valve (the correct conection)

but if i change and i make the black plug on the cold injector it start but smoke a lot of black smoke at the excaust and then when the engine is still running and i want to take off the black plug on the cold injector the engine runs higher and after about 1 minuts it s stop

my 4 injector works they injecte the same quantitait of fuel

hmm strange no sorry for my english

 

can it be this because i think i d ont have a fuse in the seat heathering

on Bosch KE failure is
the fuel ECU. As I’ll be doing an
in-depth KE article I won’t go into
too much detail, but basically
without the Black ECU working
correctly, you have an XR3i management
system that can’t see
a turbo, but worse it can’t start
properly when cold.
The fuel ECU provides all
post starting and cold running
enrichment as well as the extra
fuel for boost conditions.
As well as failing, it’s not
uncommon for owners to
remove the fuse for the fuel ECU
by accident. Ford in its wisdom
never made a new fusebox lid
for the Bosch KE-equipped cars,
so the S2 cars have the ECU fuse
labelled as the Heated Seats.
Which fuse would you remove
if your lights failed one night?
One from a circuit powering an
option the car isn’t fitted with
is normally the first port of call.
Such a tragedy that many owners
have then hit the motorway
and lost the engine in a lean
meltdown and never found out
what caused it.

 

up

 

try adding a fuse to the heated seats then mate. start up the engine and add the fuse the engine should blip when added which is normal.

 

i gone a trie that because i dont have a fuse there is the number six one step up there is the fuse for the fuel pump relais

if the problem is only this im happy

 

did u forget to put the pistons back in lol

 

well some news my engine only start up on warm and cold if i switch the black multiplug from the air auxilair to the cold starter and then when the engine is one i can reconnect the wiring correct
my co was insert of maximom i turn it 2 turn back but it still the same the engine only start with the black plug on the cold start injector an then when is on i can connect every thing correct again the engine still on ....??

 

i have a fuse in the head seat ...

 

If your CO was in maximum that is probably your problem, it will be very very rich!

 

but i turn it back now and nothing change need i to deconnect the plug on the ke near the arch side ??

 

same problem here re-built and wont start so iam going to try swapping these plugs like you have.

 

well is strange no need some cvh pro?

 

UP

 

nobody can help please?

 

i stil have this problem

the engine only start when i the cold starter injecter is ON when the cold starter injecter is OFF the engine cut directly off

my thermo switch sensor is ok
my engine temperatur sensor is also ok i check the ohm


i turn the CO screw maximom to the right but then turn it back well i don t know where i am now with the co srew if it is rich or poor ..

well i need help..

maybe my fuel pump?

 

Hey dude, sorry to hear you are having problems with the RS.

Please don't change the switches over again. The feed to the cold start is via the thermo switch and is only meant for a few seconds, the cold start feed is permanent so it can slowly close the bi metallic opening. That's why the car runs fast and the smoke is black due to over fuelling when you change them over.

The allen key co adjuster you should have left alone until you found the problem.
I'm a bit rusty here but IIRC the electronic pressure actuator is the black plastic bit held on to the side of the metering unit with 2 screws. Ensure this is connected properly. I think the ford test figures were something like 0mA @ warm idle and up to 120mA max enrichment and -40ma for fuel shut off.
There may also be a potentiometer on the side to measure the air flap movement - I need to look @ mine to refresh my memory - check both are connected and working properly.

so stop and look at this a bit logically - think which things you disturbed when doing your engine rebuild.

I'm assuming you have checked that the fuel pressure when cold is sensible etc. you can mimic the electro pressure regulator action by pressing down very slightly on the metering flap as your friend starts the RS.

Good luck, hope this helps a bit. Get some pics up of your car when it's fixed

 

ok well i gone a check all the conection because the yellow plug for the engine temperature sensor under the manifold wasn t good connect one pin wasn t good in the plug

i test the cold start feed an the bimetal worse perfetcly still open and when i put 12v on it it closed

i have to look about the electronic pressure actuator ok because is true that in take it off when i did the rebuild

normaly the engine have to be running also if the CO srew is not good turned?

and one question about the potionmetre (for the air flap mouvement) is it when you start to push the trothle did the potionometre do TIK? how to adjust it correctly?
thanks

 

Hi there
I wouldn't worry much about the potentiometer - it doesn't do as much as the pressure reg and is not adjustable as it moves with the flap (assuming the flap moves freely).

Are you saying it also has problems starting when warm? Even with the pedal slightly depressed?
The pressure reg won't do much on a warm start.
Have you checked there are absolutely no air leaks in the intake and all hoses (e.g. the vacuum hose to the ecu etc) are connected nicely?

the temp sensor when cold is appx 3300 ohm [range 1300-3600] when cold and 380 warm [range 250-390]. it's a good idea to make sure this and the wiring to/from it are ok (as you are doing).

if you suspect the fuel pressure is not held after switch off you could connect a pressure gauge to the cold start feed - min 2 bar after 20 mins engine off. Never done this, but I guess you could actuate the cold start injector when warm [into a container] and do the same again when cold in case there are obvious differences in pressure/delivery of the whole system (- the cold start inj isn't important, I ran mine always disconnected for UK weather).

good luck!

 

i have no air leak
my engine temperature sensor it good hade 2320ohm at cold


i have constaly 9 volt who goes tu the black box pressure (on the metering unit)

i don t know what hapen the car dont start only if i put the cold starter injector ON
but i can not puch the throttle because then the engine directly cut off

 

i want to check this
PUT THE AMP METER IN SERIES INTO ONE OF THE WIRES GOING TO THEPRESSURE ACTUATOR, UNPLUG THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR ANDCONNECT THE SENSOR SIMULATOR ACROSS THE MULTI PLUG AND CHANGE THERESISTANCE. THE PRESSURE SHOULD THEN CHANGE AS THE RESISTANCE ISCHANGED. THIS DETERMINES THAT THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT AND THEPRESSURE ACTUATOR ARE WORKING CORRECTLY

and connect the sensor simulator across the multi plug.... i don t understand this sorry for my english
thanks

 

well ok i bought an escort mk3 rs turbo repair book

my NTC engine temperature sensor is good they say it must have betwenn 1300-3600 ohm at COLD engine ok my have 2380 ohm Cold engine

my auxiliary air device works



my pressure accutator (black box on the metering unit near the wing ) is ok they say it must be betwen 16...21 ohm my have 19,4 ohm and i have 8 volt when contact is on

my throttle postion is good but only at full open i have 6,9 ohm an not betwenn 0....1ohm
strange but it s not because that the engine won t start

then i make some test like they say in the book

i took the yellow plug for the engine temperatur sensor off it makes like the car is cold -30 degree
but then at the wiring to the pressure accutator (black box on the metering unit near the wing ) i have 019.5 ohm whitout contact an d then when i put contact i have nothing???
if i do a bridge on the yellow plug (engeine temperatur) i have ohm 024.6 with contact and again 019.5 ohm without contact ??

and also my other pontiometer on the metering unit gearbox side i have volt on the plug but then when i do the test to put the multimeter plus pole in the middel pin on the plug and the negative to the earth i have 1,800volt and it do like a countdown ?? and when i took the air flap down nothing change

need help thanks i only can start the engine with the cold injector on

 

nobody can help please

 

after rebuild it was running like that but it s true that at the last moment who i tried to start the engine i was every time in the fuel reserve

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yA3_tSFCVVs

 

Hi
That looks like a good project - will be nice when you have it all finished I think

It's good that you bought the book, that should help.

Sorry, I'm not with my car until weekend to check the tests but I will have a look then if you haven't fixed the problem.

So the temp sensor reading goes to the ecu which then varies the mA @ the pressure reg to enrich fuel supply when the engine is cold.

You need to measure the mA (connect the test kit in series) @ the regulator (plugged in properly and working) when you are cranking the cold engine. It should be anywhere around 50mA to 160mA approximately, but well over 0 for sure.

If the reading is not correct then trace the ohm value from the temp sensor to the ecu (it tells you in the book which pin number that is on the ecu).

So hopefully this way you can tell whether it is the wiring from the temp sensor to ecu, or the wiring from ecu to regulator, or the regulator itself which may be faulty.

hope this helps - good luck

 

yes but i don have this test wiring kit to put on the wiring who goes to the pressure reg
i cut the cable refix it with a domino like this http://img5.cherchons.com/marchand/p.../847594081.jpg

that i can measure the mA there

but how to measure it i take the yellow plug from the engine temperture off i do a bridge and then i measure on the domino on cable de positive the other cable the negativ ??

and i nedd to have 50ma to 160ma with the contakt ON ?

 

ok i have some news :

when i test the ampers on the wiring who goes to the pressure regulator on the metering unit
i have some ampers like 200Am but when i put the contact ON i have nothing

AND THEN i did this i took the heather seat fuse out and there when i put the contact ON i have ampers

well tomorw i gone trie to start the engine with no heather seat fuse

 

My S1 did that,
Change meter head, same.

Turned out that the 2 sensor under the inlet mani, had the wrong color plugs on,
swapped em around and was sorted.

From memory blue plug and black plug,
one of the plugs sends a signal to the black pressure regulator to tell it how much fuel to let trought.
and because they were wrong, to much fuel was going