RST_mark

I own a '90 spec series 2 and want to remove the ABS system on it.

I was hoping someone could put me on the right lines of what i need to do?

I know i will need a reservoir without the outlets on it, do i still use my original master cylinder?

I can make up my own brake pipes at work so is it just a case of ditching the modulators and running the feeds from the master cylinder, one to either T-pieces on the inner wings?

Any help will be greatly appreciated

Cheers, Mark

akito-man

well mines been de-belted,but still has the load valves,brakes are fine,just remember,if you leave the load valves on ,when you re-do your brakes,they have to be under load (car weighted)when you bleed em.


i was told if the load valves are removed,you must run bias valves,set up proffesionally,are not cheap,.

Rallyesport

Yes, use non-abs resevoir and make you own pipe work from the original master cylinder to the t-pieces. Ditch the union block and the modulators. The bias will be the same as with the orginal setup. Buy yourself a double lap flaring tool and some copper brake pipes. Use the fittings on the brake pipes you remove. Get yourself some braided hoses at the wheels and then fill and flush with some quality Dot4 brake fluid. This should improve the pedal feel and stopping power somewhat.

RST_mark

Ok, will have to have a look at my local scrappy for a non ABS reservoir and then give it a go sometime. I've already got braided hoses and cossie spec brakes all round so hopefully this should improve them further.

Any other experience or help appreciated!

shane

i removed mine myself and it wasnt that hard,just awkward getting the pumps off,expect to get ur knuckles scraped!

adamS2RST

You don't have to use a non abs resi either, just looks a little neater then looping or bunging i guess.

neilrev

removed mine as descibed above, but tried a few non abs reservoirs on my master cylinder but they don't fit (the tubes that push in the rubbers are too fat) no rush cos i'm not on road yet but does anyone know which ones fit - cheers

Versus_Creations

iTrader: (1)

Do it properly lads!

Moonie

What do you recomend then Jano, just had a look on your site but was unable to find any information on ABS removal or brake upgrades.

I have removed the ABS off my S2. It still has the original master cylinder and reservoir, i have looped and joined the two return pipes together. Im still on a standard front and rear brake set up.

What would your advice be? 2wd discs on the front on spaced out s2 calipers or 4x4 calipers on the 2wd disc? Or something else?

What about the rear, are rear discs necessary or are the drums up to the job?

Is the standard master cylinder ok/is there an upgrade? What about the load valves, keep them or remove them and fit a bias valve?

Sorry for al the questions, im just after some advice as im looking to improve my brakes.

RST_mark

Removed the last of the old ABS rubbish tonight but was just wondering when i come to make up my new pipes does it matter which exit on the master cylinder goes to which side or the vehicle (where it joins on the inner wing)? Or which way have people who've done the conversion chosen to plumb it in?

Cheers

gambit

you dont have to change your reservoir or master cylinder. Just run a pipe from one outlet of the reservoir back into the other one this way it just recircs the fluid. you will find the a.b.s master cylinder is better then the non a.b.s one. I have done it this way on mine and it is perfectly fine the brakes feel great. However do remember to bleed the brakes fully whilst the rear of the car is on the ground. The other two outlets on the master cylinder itself will need two pipes running to both t-pieces in either side inner arch.

gambit

i have a diagram of how it should run, but dont know how to attach the file to this thread. if you can tell me i will post it up or give me your email address.

SafeChav

Basically, in terms of operation, you need to split each of the two outputs into 2 pipes, and as long as one goes to each wheel, it will work.

The common way of pipig them, is to have one outlet split to run the front right and rear left brake, and the other outlet split to run the front left and rear right (known as diagonaly split), it doesnt matter which outlet on the master cylinder operates which circuit.

Does that make sense to you?

A standard S2 master cylinder is big, 25mm, you shouldn't need a lot bigger unless your getting fuckin huageeeee brakes.

A lot of people use 2wd discs and 4wd calipers because they provide better braking but will still fit under standard wheels. ST170 is also meant to be excellent, i myself have 2wd calipers.

Lets face it drum brakes are stoneage items, front brakes are the important ones though.

Some people remove the load valves and leave it as is, my car has never had any, i havent done any serious driving to see if the back wheels lock up easily or not, ive heard a lot of people saying they seem ok though.

RST_mark

Yes that does make sense to me, cheers for that. I was thinking myself that it shouldn't matter whch outlet opetates which circuit because as you say they work on an diagonal split, was just wondering if there was a preferred way of piping it.

Will be finishing it off this week hopefully

SafeChav

The only reason for doing diagonal split, is if a pipe or caliper springs a leak, you still retain 1 front and 1 rear brake.

People who fit Bias assemblies have to do front and rear circuits obviously because of how the bias is adjusted.

Just make sure you put the compensators in the rear lines only.

Get some pics up when you finsih it