My newly acquired xr2i is a non runner, basically theres no spark. I have 2 coil packs so can rule that out, its got new plugs and new crank sensor. I think the ecu may be knackered as there is screws missing from it, someones been inside although nothing appears to have been touched. Any ideas apart from ecu? I'm on the lookout for one at the moment, just wondered if anyone had any other ideas.

 

I'd try one of those first. Get one off ebay for about Ł3.

 

a mate of mine has the same problem. ford ecu are shite

 

EDIS-4 module will give a spark even without the ecu if only it has 12V power to its pin #8. The missing ecu signal will just default the advance to 10 degrees btdc as a fail safe. Start with cheking that you indeed have power to EDIS.

 

Sorry for being dumb but EDIS is Electronic distributor, right? Also called Coil Pack? If so, do I need to be checking for a live feed at pin#8 on the plug, or showing a live feed to the coil pack on pin #8 to manually make it spark? I may be way off the mark here but this sounds interesting! Could u explain in a teeny bit more simple terms

 

Done! Pick it up from the post office tomorrow
Been thinking about this, think I understand now

 

Right, update! I now know what the EDIS4 module is, found it on the bulkhead. Fitted my new ecu, no difference. The EDIS module plug has power on various wires going in to it, and the coil pack multiplug has power to the middle pin with ignition on. I dont really know which one is pin #8 on the EDIS though, there was no numbering system on the plug or module. Anyway can anyone help any further given this info? Whats my next thing to try?

 

The crank position sensor should read the lugs on the back of the flywheel. This sensor is directly connected to the EDIS-4 module. Then the EDIS-4 decodes the position of the crank from that signal and makes sure the sparks are fired at the correct moment by controlling the coilpack. The EDIS-4 also gives the signal to the rev counter. The EDIS-4 communicates with the ecu asking for a timing advance using the PIP signal. The ecu should respond using the SAW signal. In the case of no SAW signal the EDIS-4 will default to 10 degrees spark advance as a fail safe.

So, if there's no spark (are you sure about this?), then something in this chain is not working. How about when you crank the engine, do you see any slightest moment on the rev counter indicating that the crank position decoding has been successfull?

Here you can see the direction of the pin numbering on the EDIS4 module:

 

Excellent diagram thanks JesseT thats made things much clearer. There is DEFINATELY no spark, I have one of the plugs resting against the head visible at all times. I now know why I had power to the middle pin of the coil, because its obviously the wire that goes to pin #8 on the EDIS so thats ok. I am sure that the rev counter was moving on crankover, I will double check this (I'm hoping it does as I have put a brand new CPS in). If the rev counter moves AND I have power to the coil pack and module (through pin #8) do you think this indicates that the EDIS module is probably the faulty link by not supplying a signal to the coil pack?
We appear to be getting closer to the problem!

UPDATE: Been over this afternoon, yes the rev counter does flick when the engine is being turned over

 

See if you can test with a different coilpack and EDIS-4 unit. These are found in a number of 90-95 FWD fords.

 

I have 2 coilpacks which have both been tried, and have another EDIS4 unit coming in the post, hopefully be here tomorrow. I'll report back after I've tried it.

 

Tried another EDIS4 module which came in the post today, still NOTHING. Really pi***d off with it now. Theres power to pin #8 on the EDIS, and power to the middle pin on the coil pack multiplug. The other 2 pins on this plug show earth. The rev counter flicks up when the engines turned over.
Had enough now, any ideas?

 

Start checking the wires for continuity, one could be broken.

 

Do you have any means of cheking if the coil is getting a signal? How about hooking a 12V bulb in the place of the coilpack and see if it's flickering. I'm also wondering how good your way of cheking for no spark is. It might not work that well for a wasted spark system. A timing light is a perfect tool if you have one at use.

 

I have connected a test lamp to the coil pack plug, its 12v+ on the middle pin with the ignition on and the pins either side are both reading earth. I cant understand how this would ignite the coil As for checking for spark, I am resting the plug against the alloy of the head and watching the plug as I turn the engine over and its not sparking Thanks for your continued help by the way, really appreciate it!

 

When checking pins 1 and 3 of the coil how/where are you getting an earth? These pins are connected internally to pin 2 of the coil as they are the windings. The EDIS unit grounds and ungrounds pins 1 and 3 to create the spark.

 

I have been using an led voltage meter that also shows polarity. I clamp one end to the earth of the battery and test with the other end which shows the constant live on pin 2 of the unplugged plug. when I change over and put one end of the tester on the live terminal of the battery, pins 1 and 3 on the plug show earth. When I turn the key and crank the engine over the lights on my tester go out until i release the key. I have replaced coil pack, edis module, crank sensor and ecu and checked and soldered all wires where I thought necessary, all with no difference. I have been checking the plug to the coil pack, not the coil itself. The EDIS and coil both have power. Is there any way of 'hot wiring' the EDIS system to bypass most of the loom? So i could rule out any wiring problem from the fusebox etc. Or an idiots guide to test the EDIS multiplug to see what each wire should read? As I said, I know the EDIS and coil are gettting a live feed when the ignitions turned on.

 

Stab in the dark here but try running it with the SAW and PIP disconnected from the EDIS, it should output 10 degrees of advance (which is the default for cranking) and see if you get a spark.

 

I will try that tomorrow thanks

 

Ok, you say that you have power with the ignition on. How about during cranking. You sure the power stays on? Secondly, when testing the coil plug for signal with for example a bulb or a test lamp, it should blink when cranking. Thirdly, When resting the, let's say plug #1, on the head when cheking for spark disconnect completely the HT-cable from plug #4.

edit:
Are you also sure that the air-gap between the CPS and the flywheel is corrent being just a couple of millimeters. There are many different length CPSs in different age EDIS-4 equipped engines.

 

Well I bought a CPS direct from ford parts, told him the engine type and year and model of car and it does appear to be the same as the old one. Also the rev counter flicks up when cranking the engine over, does this mean the CPS is working correctly? When I test with a lamp on the coil pack plug the light goes out completely (it doesnt blink) and only comes back on when I stop cranking the engine. I'm just baffled now, seems I've tried everything! Tried it with the PIP and SAW wires disconnected too, still nothing.

 

When you say it flicks, do you mean that it moves for an instant, or stays up a bit during the whole cranking process. If it just flicks for an instant, that doesn't sound good. Also if the bulb doesn't go fast on/off while cranking, then...
Did you check that you are indeed having power to the system while cranking, not just with ignition on?

 

Check the resistance of the CPS sensor (in case the new one is duff) 200-400 ohms.

 

Yes, and the lamp seems to go out when cranking the engine over, suggesting a cut in the power (on the middle pin of the coil pack) The same also happens with pins 1 and 2 of the coil pack plug (the earths) As soon as the key is turned to engage the starter the test lamp goes out until the key is released

I havent got access to a resistance meter but have another known good CPS I can try

No, it pulses properly as the engine cranks over

 

You should have power at all times (except when the ignition is off) to pin 2 of the coil, if you are losing it when cranking then this is the source of your problem I'd say.

 

So if I run a temporary live feed to the wire going into pin 2 of the coil that should do I reckon, then if that turns out to be the problem I can investigate the wiring side of things. I'll try that over the weekend!

 

Hi I have a ford Sierra RS cosworth I have a level 8 ECU but when the car is running its Island very high around 1100 rpm. I have sent this to different people in the UK and we have changed all sensors on the engine I put a level of six on and the car Idols perfectly. It had a wasted spark board on it which was faulty I was looking to know if anyone had one for sale and also anyone that has suffered this problem how did they resolved it. This is going on years but can't seem to find anyone that knows about it. I even spoke to motorsport development and they had no idea. I'd appreciate if someone could assist me thank you liam.

 

19 year old thread bump....wow.

L8 and L6 use a different throttle position sensor. So it is probably no surprise things are not correct if you're swapping ecu's randomly, but not using appropriate sensors for each.

http://www.bigturbo.co.uk/

 

What the issue with the level 8 regarding to take over I have changed the sensor on the throttle body from the red to the black one which is meant to be level 8 and it didn't make any difference so announced told me to switch the top wire with the bottom I tried that and it didn't work. How do you know the difference between the truffle body sensor is there a number cloud on its something

 

Sorry somebody had commented regarding my issue with the high idle on the ECU forward Sierra cusworth level 8 ECU. Someone is saying that the positioning shuttle sensor is different on a two-wheel drive four-wheel drive level 6 and level 8. When I lock it up it's telling me that the truffle position and sensor tf09 is the same for all the sierra's and someone provided me with a different number that I can check but I can't seem to find any other one other than that

 

And what fault codes are you getting ?

https://motorsport-developments.co.uk/iaw.html

One of these books covers the flash codes, just can't recall which, or maybe both.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295561746554

https://haynes.com/en-gb/haynes-manu...e-management-0

 

I will try that with the truffle position sensor.
Why I'm sending a message here would anyone have a wasted spark for rscosworth ecl. The one that's in mind has gone faulty from the time it was installed. Curious to know if anyone would have on for sale at the rate money thank you Liam.

 

Hi I know I have asked before regarding this issue on a ford Sierra RS cosworth. I changed over the ECU from a level 6 to a level eight and the engine Idols at 1100 takeover. I have changed the throttle positioning sensor to a four-wheel drive one. And I also rotated the wires in the plug and it's still Idols at 1100 if I plug out the speed idle control valve it goes back to normal takeover. And if I put the level 6 ECU back on it's Idols perfectly. I wonder does anybody know what the issue might be. I have sent it away and I've asked people in motorsport developments and they have no idea. Maybe someone has experienced this issue before and can let me know. Thank you Liam.

 

And have done any of the previous tests mentioned or accessed fault codes ?

And is it even making any attempt to control idle ? test both the valve and signal to the valve.

 

Hi I have no way in testing anything as I don't have any leads or software to plug in.
As I said the car runs perfect on the level 6 ECU. But for some unknown reason it will not idle properly on the level eight ECU. Is it programming in the chip or is it the baby board. This is going on over six years I had sent it to the UK and they couldn't see the issue as they hadn't got a car would stage one mapping no car to test it on

 

So you have not bothered to do any of the basic tasks I suggested, or got the books mentioned.

neither of which require any leads or software, other than a basic multimeter.

Obviously it's going on if you're taking no sensible steps to remedy the problem.

If it runs correctly on the L6 ecu...then use it.

 

I want to use the level eight as it's a four-wheel drive sierra.
I just thought someone would know a quick fix as I taught it was plug and play within reason.

 

can't fix until you've diagnosed any problem.

 

If I could plug a computer in I'm sure it would tell me what the problem is but I don't have the technology for that care only for modern cars.
And I just talked with all the cuss words out there somebody would have had this issue before and knew what to do. I appreciate your time for obviously you haven't come across this problem before as I said the car runs perfect on the level six but not on the level eight. And the reason I'm keeping it is because it has a wasted spark system fitted to it. Which I disconnected it to see was it causing the issue.

 

You really aren't grasping the very basic steps I'm telling you.

You do not need a computer, it is not a modern car. Diagnosing problems like this is pretty straightforward. But clearly you've zero interest in doing so.

Good luck for the next 6 years.