How many turns on a wheel nut?
11-10-2008, 06:37 PM
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How many turns on a wheel nut?
How many full turns of the nut do you actually need for full security?
What is involved in changing the studs for longer ones.
Any advise apprecited
What is involved in changing the studs for longer ones.
Any advise apprecited
11-10-2008, 07:51 PM
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This is what I was told by one of those alloy wheel type places when i bought some alloys years ago and needed different nuts to fit the chamfer of the alloys.
I wasnt really convinced either but they never came undone.
not really been in the same situation since then (i.e my other cars/alloys since have had loads of turns)
In aerospace I know they specify the thread should be flush with the nut at a minimum but 1 thread over the nut is preferable. Dont know what the threshold for cars is though!
I wasnt really convinced either but they never came undone.
not really been in the same situation since then (i.e my other cars/alloys since have had loads of turns)
In aerospace I know they specify the thread should be flush with the nut at a minimum but 1 thread over the nut is preferable. Dont know what the threshold for cars is though!
11-10-2008, 11:17 PM
#5
You have to tap the old studs out - I used an old nut to protect the threads. Fronts are easy enough as everything is in plain view - but if you still have the rear brake shields in place you will need to turn the hub and maybe pull the sheild back a little to get them out.
Refitting is reversed process - I used an old nut and a washer or two to pull them up tight before refitting the wheels.
Refitting is reversed process - I used an old nut and a washer or two to pull them up tight before refitting the wheels.
12-10-2008, 06:56 AM
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You have to tap the old studs out - I used an old nut to protect the threads. Fronts are easy enough as everything is in plain view - but if you still have the rear brake shields in place you will need to turn the hub and maybe pull the sheild back a little to get them out.
Refitting is reversed process - I used an old nut and a washer or two to pull them up tight before refitting the wheels.
Refitting is reversed process - I used an old nut and a washer or two to pull them up tight before refitting the wheels.
Where is the best place to get these from? need them in a bit of a hurry.
Also if the studs are longer do you not have to remove the hub to get them in behind? or should there be enough room?
13-10-2008, 12:04 AM
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Jacko, Rally design in Faversham do them for 0.80p a stud, you can either have +1/2" (12.7mm ish) or +1"(25mm ish) longer than standard. I have fitted +1" studs to all for corners of my Escos, it is fucking SHOCKING how many people are driving thier cossies round with only 4-5 threads holding thier wheels on 
... For Ł20 or so you can have high tensile full length replacements, my studs now come right through the nuts, so there is very little chance of snapping them compared to fitting the std length ones.
Rally Design 01795 539930.
Fronts you can fit in situ, it is a bit tight but do-able. An air hammer makes it a LOT easier, and also just use a nut on them to protect the threads as you remove them. Fitting is the same, get them just through the hub, then use a buzz gun and a washer+nut to draw them into the hub. Make sure the faces of the hub are wire brush cleaned to make sure the studs are flush and not sat on dirt. Also, on re-fitting your wheels torque them up, then slacken them off and repeat, to make sure the studs are all tight .
The rears are a bit of a cunt, might need to drop the arms, I can't remember as I fitted mine when it was all apart for a new Danny B beam.
... For Ł20 or so you can have high tensile full length replacements, my studs now come right through the nuts, so there is very little chance of snapping them compared to fitting the std length ones. Rally Design 01795 539930.
Fronts you can fit in situ, it is a bit tight but do-able. An air hammer makes it a LOT easier, and also just use a nut on them to protect the threads as you remove them. Fitting is the same, get them just through the hub, then use a buzz gun and a washer+nut to draw them into the hub. Make sure the faces of the hub are wire brush cleaned to make sure the studs are flush and not sat on dirt. Also, on re-fitting your wheels torque them up, then slacken them off and repeat, to make sure the studs are all tight .
The rears are a bit of a cunt, might need to drop the arms, I can't remember as I fitted mine when it was all apart for a new Danny B beam.
Last edited by RWD_cossie_wil; 13-10-2008 at 12:08 AM.
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14-10-2008, 07:29 AM
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Jacko, Rally design in Faversham do them for 0.80p a stud, you can either have +1/2" (12.7mm ish) or +1"(25mm ish) longer than standard. I have fitted +1" studs to all for corners of my Escos, it is fucking SHOCKING how many people are driving thier cossies round with only 4-5 threads holding thier wheels on ... For Ł20 or so you can have high tensile full length replacements, my studs now come right through the nuts, so there is very little chance of snapping them compared to fitting the std length ones.
Rally Design 01795 539930.
Fronts you can fit in situ, it is a bit tight but do-able. An air hammer makes it a LOT easier, and also just use a nut on them to protect the threads as you remove them. Fitting is the same, get them just through the hub, then use a buzz gun and a washer+nut to draw them into the hub. Make sure the faces of the hub are wire brush cleaned to make sure the studs are flush and not sat on dirt. Also, on re-fitting your wheels torque them up, then slacken them off and repeat, to make sure the studs are all tight .
The rears are a bit of a cunt, might need to drop the arms, I can't remember as I fitted mine when it was all apart for a new Danny B beam.
... For Ł20 or so you can have high tensile full length replacements, my studs now come right through the nuts, so there is very little chance of snapping them compared to fitting the std length ones. Rally Design 01795 539930.
Fronts you can fit in situ, it is a bit tight but do-able. An air hammer makes it a LOT easier, and also just use a nut on them to protect the threads as you remove them. Fitting is the same, get them just through the hub, then use a buzz gun and a washer+nut to draw them into the hub. Make sure the faces of the hub are wire brush cleaned to make sure the studs are flush and not sat on dirt. Also, on re-fitting your wheels torque them up, then slacken them off and repeat, to make sure the studs are all tight .
The rears are a bit of a cunt, might need to drop the arms, I can't remember as I fitted mine when it was all apart for a new Danny B beam.
Great info thanks
.
15-10-2008, 10:38 PM
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