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I had a problem with my Escort rs turbo.
Sorry for my english, i try my best but that's not my original language.
This summer during a little trip, i just take a break for 2 hours. The car stay in the sun on the parking. When i came back, impossible to start it again. I chek the fuel pump relay and it was totally out of use.
So, i take the car back to home put a new relay an now i heard (again) my fuel pump starting. But the car start and immediately stop.
Just before this problem the car was running well. I tried to change the fuel pump but nothing better.
I had spark and fuel so, don't know what can be the problem.
Do someone have an idea ? I search everywhere but can't find someone in belgium who know that mechanics very well.
The car is a Westfield But with an Rs Turbo mechanics.
Hot start issues are a common problem on K(E)-Jetronic units and easy to solve.
But in your case it was the relay, funny it's not running properly now. Maybe you had a short circuit while you parked the car that fried the relay and maybe the Jetronic box, too.
Have you checked the spark plugs?
Does it not run at all? Or maybe just unable to idle?
EDIT: What else did you do? The K(E)-Jetronic is VERY sensitive when it comes to air leaks. When you disconnected a little hose somewhere the car might start but will cut out immediately.
To have a little hope, I need to turn the contact on like 5 times before trying to start the car. I push a little bit the flap and after that the car can start like 2 or 3 seconds before cut off. Impossible to put Gaz or something like that. https://we.tl/t-AzQOWHGId0
I use the same as before, because I bought a new one and it was exactly the same as before so I put the older one thinking of maybe a bad choice in the website.
FOr the new one I command it on internet and it's one for escort rs turbo with 6.5 bar of pression.
As said, check for air leaks on all breather pipes, intercooler hoses, dipstick etc. Smoke test is best. The amount of air being sucked in by the engine pulls the fuel metering flap down.
After a long winter without time to check, I control everything and we find out that the fuel pump activation in the ECU is burn.
So, I have shunt the relay of the fuel pump and now it run normally. I will put a button to activate or not the fuel pump.
I have 2 other questions.
I have a motorcraft ECU and a black one, is it normal to have 2 different ECU ? The motorcraft is a blue red black one from S2 and the black one don't have inscription on it.
And the second question is about the temperature sensor. I have a sensor with only one wire and it goes to the gauge. But the gauges start at 60 to 170° and the information isn't correct. When my water is around 100° the gauges indicate 170°.
So I wanted to replace the sensor and the gauges but, do you have any recommandation to find that correct piece ?
Speak to VDO and they'll advise of a calibrated sensor you can use with the gauge.
Ref having a manual on/off switch for the fuel pump, just a heads up but you're basically circumventing the safety feature the original relay offers. In the event of a crash when RPM is zero'd, the relay terminates power to the pump preventing fuel pumping out everywhere if you split lines etc. But taking that out of the equation and having a manual switch you run the risk of the pump continuing to run in the event of a crash.
People really struggle to wrap their heads round these relays for some reason but they are very simple and the aftermarket equivalents are just as good in my experience
I'm going to contact VDO but I don't know if it's the sensor or the gauges which have a problem.
And the actual gauge is a bit special for the water temperature. If I keep the actual gauge, I would not have a precise information.
For the fuel pump, that's not a problem from the relay, it's a new aftermarket one.
The problem come from the ECU ,
Gauges are calibrated based on certain input values. If the old CVH sensor is not using the same range, you'll get odd readings. I've had this with many an install, even with ECU's you need to calibrate/map the sensor values so it actually maps to the real temperature.
Chances are the gauges is fine, and the sensor is fine - but they are incompatible if you want accurate readings. If VDO give you the values, then you can probably do some easy maths to work things out to rescale in your head - or of course find a sensor that will fit that uses the correct range
(Ford) KE-Jetronic always came with two ECUs. Ford ESC-II for the ignition control and the black Bosch Jetronic Module for the KE-Jetronic control.
Both work independent, the only connection is an ignition signal from the ESC-II to the Jetronic module when the engine is running. According to the wiring diagram the hall signal from the distributor (green/yellow; PIN 20 ESC-II) is directly connected to the Jetronic module (green/red; PIN 20 ESC-II -> PIN 25 Jetronic).
The fuel pump relay is connected to the green cable (PIN 1, ESC-II) to the ignition coil; green/red. Wiring might be an issue or the ESC-module. You could try another ESC-module or throw it out and use an aftermarket, mappable ECU for the ignition control.
P.S.: ignition feed fuel pump relay is for safety reasons. When the engine cuts out after an accident, the fuel pump will stop delivering fuel and therefore reducing the risk of a fire.
Your temperature gauge is for oil temperature. Water temperature usually is just up to 120°C, as more doesn't make sense. Most aftermarket sensors come with the same thread as the Ford sensors for the temp gauge in the dashboard. I'd get a (VDO or any other good aftermarket gauge) temperature gauge and a new sensor.
Thanks guys for the information and advice.
Is it enough to have just a water temperature sensor or just an oil temperature sensor or do you have to have both?
Thanks, i find what i need in the VDO shop. I'm going to buy new gauges and sensor for water temp and a new sensor for oil temp.
Do you know the size for the water sensor ? (the same as my picture just above)
Best place for the oil censor is on the engine crankcase ? if yes, what's the correct size for this one ?
Oil sender - depends if you're going to weld a bung into the sump, or just t-off of the oil pressure sender. If the latter then just get the a 1/4npt t-piece and sender to fit into it based on its output threads
Oil sender - depends if you're going to weld a bung into the sump, or just t-off of the oil pressure sender. If the latter then just get the a 1/4npt t-piece and sender to fit into it based on its output threads
The hole on the engine block for the oil warning light can be used for the oil PRESSURE gauge, too. Either with a pressusre sensor with two outlets (one for the gauge, the other for the warning light) or with the mentioned t-piece. As there's not much oil flow there this is the wrong position for the oil temperature sensor. I use the oil sump drain plug. VDO sold oil temp sensors with the correct thread to replace the oil sump drain plug. You could also go for an oil filter sandwich plate (the oil pressure sensor can be put there then, too), as long as you don't use the standard oil/water cooler. But space could be a problem then with the sandwich plate AND the heat exchanger.
So that's not a 1.6 cvh from escort/fiesta rs Turbo ?
I did my timing belt today and my water pump, but I mount one from escort rs Turbo 1.6 cvh.
The car pass on the Dino today with 153hp at 5400rpm and maximum 1 bar of pressure.
Sorry but I bought the car and the precedent owner said that's was a 1.6 cvh turbo so I a bit loose 🤦♂️
I tried but I had to reassemble the old tensioner because the 1.6 CVH one didn't fit.
Is that a good news for me to have a 1.8 ZVH compare to the 1.6 CVH ?
I'm a bit disappointed with this news ...
I bought the car thinking it was a 1.6, that's what the seller told me.
I tried but I had to reassemble the old tensioner because the 1.6 CVH one didn't fit.
Is that a good news for me to have a 1.8 ZVH compare to the 1.6 CVH ?
I'm a bit disappointed with this news ...
I bought the car thinking it was a 1.6, that's what the seller told me.
The Zetec block - still when it's got the standard N/A pistons - is sturdy and works well when not going for crazy boost pressure and a lot of power. 0,2 litre more means a bit more torque and potential for more power, although it's not that much. That's why most of the people built a 2,0 or 2,1 ZVH.
BUT: It would be important to know the compression ratio of your engine!
The downside is the combination of CVH and Zetec makes it a little bit more fragile than a full CVH would be, especially when it comes to the cambelt and the water pump. But when you are careful and the conversion has been done well, this usually also lasts. Zt still isn't a standard RST engine anymore but as it's not in a standard Escort RST it's not that important. And as I mentioned above, I'd opt for an aftermarket ignition ECU. No more worries about chips, boost pressure limitation and who to see on mainland Europe for setup. Still you're a bit limited with the KE-Jetronic. About 220 bhp is the limit with the KE-Jetronic
i use to run a 1.8 zvh with standard zetec pistons ( flat top ) on ke jetronic it made 264bhp and 286 foot pound of torque on a stage 3 t3 , @ 28 psi
ported polished head , kent 35k cam kit . erl water injection .. standard inlet and exhaust manifolds !
with a modified metering head , a bosch 044 pump, this was a cheap budget built engine my own and lasted over 5 years of good daily use .
if the water pump adaptor plate is good quality and done correctly with the surface of the block machined true they are no problem at all and imo much stronger than a standard 1.6 cvh !!
without the horrible tin sump issues too !!
have you tried unplugging the cold start injector on the back of the inlet and trying to start it ?
01-12-2023, 03:52 PM
Ke-jetronic nightmare
