Machine polisher and cutting compound
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Darlington county durham
https://passionford.com/g/picture/5179119
https://passionford.com/g/picture/5179166
Im using these pads. They just screw onto my polisher
https://passionford.com/g/picture/5179166
Im using these pads. They just screw onto my polisher
Last edited by Glenn_; Mar 12, 2016 at 10:54 PM.
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How many passes did you do on a panel or how long did you spend on a panel,swirls don't always come out with one pass, it can take hours depending what the condition of your paint is and the polish and pad combo you are using
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 62,771
Likes: 1,049
From: Darlington county durham
I was doing the bonnet on my ST17O i only made a few passes over the entire bonnet.
I just watched a few vids on you tube cause the vids make it look so easy.
I just watched a few vids on you tube cause the vids make it look so easy.
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 101
From: Edinburgh
I don't recognise those pads (although that doesn't make them bad).
Megs compounds are fine, I use a few of their range but mainly Scholl and Menzerna.
My guessing is technique, work small areas at a time. As I mentioned on a previous thread, there is plenty of info on detailing world with how to's. You need to break a bonnet down into at least 6 sections. If you were closer I'd happily show you..
Megs compounds are fine, I use a few of their range but mainly Scholl and Menzerna.
My guessing is technique, work small areas at a time. As I mentioned on a previous thread, there is plenty of info on detailing world with how to's. You need to break a bonnet down into at least 6 sections. If you were closer I'd happily show you..
Glenn you need help!!!
You really don't need a cutting compound to learn with
Your gonna rub through!!!
I'd try 3M Finnesse and slow things down
A lambs wool will cut quicker but you'll get a lot of swirls/ holograms
If you use foam it'll reduce swirls but the heat of the panel will be considerably hotter
Hot panel will speed cutting and increase risks of rubbing through and burning the paint
You'd be best of buying a DA first, get used to that before rotary
If you want alittle help
You could always pop down here for the day
Don't mind giving you alittle training...
You really don't need a cutting compound to learn with
Your gonna rub through!!!
I'd try 3M Finnesse and slow things down
A lambs wool will cut quicker but you'll get a lot of swirls/ holograms
If you use foam it'll reduce swirls but the heat of the panel will be considerably hotter
Hot panel will speed cutting and increase risks of rubbing through and burning the paint
You'd be best of buying a DA first, get used to that before rotary
If you want alittle help
You could always pop down here for the day
Don't mind giving you alittle training...
I'm a total newbie to machine polishing, so went with what was recommended for ford paint on cleanyourcar.co.uk which is menzerna finishing compounds and foam pads, got them as an intro kit with a DA machine. Haven't used it yet mind you
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 101
From: Edinburgh
I've been using Menzerna for years, great products. As always, start off with lighter cuts first and work your way up if you're not getting the results you require.
i always end up with swirls on dark cars-i guess its my sledge hammer approach-g3 and rotary/sponge head...
i have my transit to do when the weather improves-its 2007 white mk7[frozen iirc] so hope i fare better with that
i will need to try these graded waffle pads and finer polish one day
i have my transit to do when the weather improves-its 2007 white mk7[frozen iirc] so hope i fare better with that

i will need to try these graded waffle pads and finer polish one day
I got a das 6 polisher from the classic car show at the nec, it's much easier but I usually only use autoglym silicone resin polish, bit nervous about using anything that will take to much paint off , is the meguiers ultimate polish better guys ? What do you guys think ?
Glenn you need help!!!
You really don't need a cutting compound to learn with
Your gonna rub through!!!
I'd try 3M Finnesse and slow things down
A lambs wool will cut quicker but you'll get a lot of swirls/ holograms
If you use foam it'll reduce swirls but the heat of the panel will be considerably hotter
Hot panel will speed cutting and increase risks of rubbing through and burning the paint
You'd be best of buying a DA first, get used to that before rotary
If you want alittle help
You could always pop down here for the day
Don't mind giving you alittle training...
You really don't need a cutting compound to learn with
Your gonna rub through!!!
I'd try 3M Finnesse and slow things down
A lambs wool will cut quicker but you'll get a lot of swirls/ holograms
If you use foam it'll reduce swirls but the heat of the panel will be considerably hotter
Hot panel will speed cutting and increase risks of rubbing through and burning the paint
You'd be best of buying a DA first, get used to that before rotary
If you want alittle help
You could always pop down here for the day
Don't mind giving you alittle training...
Glenn
This is the best advice we use the 3m stuff at work.
Those pads you have are for when you have 2000 flatted and for cutting back as said you will go thru esp on the edges.
Use masking tape on all shut lines and grills it helps with the clean up process.
Where can you get the 3m stuff chaps and which would be best to use on a car that only has a few swirls ?
Last edited by Colin N; Mar 28, 2016 at 06:58 AM. Reason: Added 3m question
Glenn,
It took me a while to get the hang of this too but I found that:
I was using an adjustable speed polisher with G3 compound to the service super flat and clean. I also regularly would squeeze my pads into a bucket of water to keep cool, squeezing off excess. Makes a mess but keeps your paint and pads cool and safe. Once scratches are removed and happy with clean surface I then used McGuire tech 2 it's purple. I used the purple sponge they gave me to apply. Don't need to push to hard. I then used meguairs White cotton pads come in packs of twos from halfords. I used one to remove them one to remove finished swirls. And in all light it just gives a clean wet look. Looked good on my black mini.
Downside is it doesn't seem to last long so a good wax is needed really but they are expensive and only takes 10 mins to go over and old mini.
It took me a while to get the hang of this too but I found that:
I was using an adjustable speed polisher with G3 compound to the service super flat and clean. I also regularly would squeeze my pads into a bucket of water to keep cool, squeezing off excess. Makes a mess but keeps your paint and pads cool and safe. Once scratches are removed and happy with clean surface I then used McGuire tech 2 it's purple. I used the purple sponge they gave me to apply. Don't need to push to hard. I then used meguairs White cotton pads come in packs of twos from halfords. I used one to remove them one to remove finished swirls. And in all light it just gives a clean wet look. Looked good on my black mini.
Downside is it doesn't seem to last long so a good wax is needed really but they are expensive and only takes 10 mins to go over and old mini.
Right Glenn here's an easy diy guide to compounds and machine polishing. I was a detailer for over 15 years including running my own business and specialising in paintwork rectification and buffed many a car over the years including 5 years of day in day out in a bmw main dealer and that was all I did was buff flat black cars back to showroom condition.
Start with the bonnet and mask it off right down the middle and start with one half so you can see the before and after. What you need to get is 3m fast cut plus part no 50417 and an orange farecla pad part no G-MOP i think and a spray bottle full of cold water. Put the compound directly onto the panel and give it a quick mist and attack it with the buff. About half speed until you get used to the motion then up it a bit and keep a close eye for the compound starting to haze and dry and you will know the panel is starting to heat up,when it starts to go too dry that's when you are at the most risk of burning through the paint and the swadge line down the bonnet is the easiest to burn as the paint is considerably thinner here and it's very easy to burn. About 8-10 passes with the machine will take out all the swirls and by then there should be next to no compound left on the panel. Onto polishing it and pretty much the same again. This time 3m polish part no is 50383 I think. It's a blue top anyway and a black waffle pad. Good layer of polish on the panel and a misting of water again and then off you go. Same again watch for it going dry and just keep misting with water until all the polish has more or less gone and your done. Quick coat of whatever polish you normally use then good buff up with a microfibre then pull the tape off and it should be like night and day compared to the tired side. Average about half an hour per panel as your just learning and take your time and will be fine. Keep it wet and you will be fine. Your focus is silver is it not? Should be easy once you get that 1st panel right but remember as you've had a go on the bonnet already the paint will already be that bit thinner. Also remember to mask up any rubbers and washer jets etc as they are easily damaged accidentally and also the gloss black door trims can be buffed aswell but only once you've got the confidence.
Failing all of that you could just buy a pot of zymol and polished it every 3 months as that hides 99% of swirls 1st time
Hope this helps. John
Start with the bonnet and mask it off right down the middle and start with one half so you can see the before and after. What you need to get is 3m fast cut plus part no 50417 and an orange farecla pad part no G-MOP i think and a spray bottle full of cold water. Put the compound directly onto the panel and give it a quick mist and attack it with the buff. About half speed until you get used to the motion then up it a bit and keep a close eye for the compound starting to haze and dry and you will know the panel is starting to heat up,when it starts to go too dry that's when you are at the most risk of burning through the paint and the swadge line down the bonnet is the easiest to burn as the paint is considerably thinner here and it's very easy to burn. About 8-10 passes with the machine will take out all the swirls and by then there should be next to no compound left on the panel. Onto polishing it and pretty much the same again. This time 3m polish part no is 50383 I think. It's a blue top anyway and a black waffle pad. Good layer of polish on the panel and a misting of water again and then off you go. Same again watch for it going dry and just keep misting with water until all the polish has more or less gone and your done. Quick coat of whatever polish you normally use then good buff up with a microfibre then pull the tape off and it should be like night and day compared to the tired side. Average about half an hour per panel as your just learning and take your time and will be fine. Keep it wet and you will be fine. Your focus is silver is it not? Should be easy once you get that 1st panel right but remember as you've had a go on the bonnet already the paint will already be that bit thinner. Also remember to mask up any rubbers and washer jets etc as they are easily damaged accidentally and also the gloss black door trims can be buffed aswell but only once you've got the confidence.
Failing all of that you could just buy a pot of zymol and polished it every 3 months as that hides 99% of swirls 1st time
Hope this helps. John
Last edited by xr2john; Apr 2, 2016 at 11:48 AM.
The main thing to do before touching it, with a polisher is the prep work and decontamination of the paint. Take a look on detailing world and have a read through their guides.
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...amp%3Bpage%3D1
1 - using 3M fast cut polish ( green top) with the fast cut green pad
2 - 3M extra fine yellow polish ( yellow top ) with yellow pad
3 - 3M ultrafina se polish ( blue top) with blue pad
the results will be amazing and your car will look as new but the job
will take you a couple of days to get the best finish that your after here are a few
cars i have done over the past few weeks
1 - using 3M fast cut polish ( green top) with the fast cut green pad
2 - 3M extra fine yellow polish ( yellow top ) with yellow pad
3 - 3M ultrafina se polish ( blue top) with blue pad
the results will be amazing and your car will look as new but the job
will take you a couple of days to get the best finish that your after here are a few
cars i have done over the past few weeks
Last edited by minder; Apr 2, 2016 at 02:26 PM.
I'm just about to buy one of these for mopping older cars, ( cars with faded paint that need a good compound) will a 900w machine be powerful enough should I be looking at something with more W ( my valeter used a 2000w Sealey DA for faded paint)?
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...amp%3Bpage%3D1
1 - using 3M fast cut polish ( green top) with the fast cut green pad
2 - 3M extra fine yellow polish ( yellow top ) with yellow pad
3 - 3M ultrafina se polish ( blue top) with blue pad
the results will be amazing and your car will look as new but the job
will take you a couple of days to get the best finish that your after here are a few
cars i have done over the past few weeks
1 - using 3M fast cut polish ( green top) with the fast cut green pad
2 - 3M extra fine yellow polish ( yellow top ) with yellow pad
3 - 3M ultrafina se polish ( blue top) with blue pad
the results will be amazing and your car will look as new but the job
will take you a couple of days to get the best finish that your after here are a few
cars i have done over the past few weeks
if it helps glen just like others have said use the 3m polish on a dual action polish machine. ive never really polished anything untill i did the cortina and its like glass with no swirl marks any where.
hope that helps.
hope that helps.
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