HELP needed with OFAC wiring / Wont cold start with chip.
Hi all,
Not long since I brought the car - some may recognise it from PF/FF last month. I have been having some trouble with it on the engine management side. Its a fiesta RST engine in an f reg orion - which was mfi but then i assume the car had an EFI escort loom used in the conversion (as im told this is simple), which was done by Matt Lewis, well MLDevelopments.
Sorry long story coming up:
The chip was removed im told when the chip was knocked out by an mot centre and the car wouldnt cold start. He was told by engine advantages the chip was fried so he took it off and it starts and runs fine bar some boost cut due to the knock sensor. It also seems to be a very rough idle so i suspect the POT isnt wired in correctly. espeically as my fault finder keeps flagging it up and its a brand new POT i brought from Ford. Oh and please note it has NO AMAL VALVE - which i am told causes no really problems as i have a -31.
When i got the car i took it off down to Power Engineering for a tune up and 165 Superchip. They thought it might have a few wiring problems as the xr loom had been used but all seemed well and it made 171bhp on the rollers, I then drove home with no problems with the car. Then the next morning i came out to it and it wouldnt start and everything was clicking on and off. i.e. Injectors and fuel pump kept priming. The starter turns fine and i have got it to start before after lots of cranking, and the hotter the engine gets the easier it starts and clicking reduces.
I took the chip of and all the clicking went away and it started on the key much to my surprise. So i took it back to PE and Iain cleaned up the ECU and reflashed the chip. He took it for a test drive and said it seemed lazy with the chip on so to leave it off until i fixed the few wiring problems. I did try the chip again the next morning and the same thing occured so i have left it off. I was sceptical of the wiring being the problem as its fine without the chip so i decided to try and new ECU. The ECU makes no difference unfortunatly so its not that either.
I thought id try swapping a few wires around to the ECU pins today using a guide i have, but on double checking it with a post of FiestaTurbo im abit lost. As there guide contridicts what i have in mine and i dont want to do any damage to the car as it does run at the moment.
This is the thread that confuses me:
http://www.fiestaturbo.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=77331
And this is the guide i have (although its seems to contridict itself anyway when it comes to the MAP sensor):
Does anyone know for sure what changes need to be made?
Has anyone come across these problems before and know a solution?
Not long since I brought the car - some may recognise it from PF/FF last month. I have been having some trouble with it on the engine management side. Its a fiesta RST engine in an f reg orion - which was mfi but then i assume the car had an EFI escort loom used in the conversion (as im told this is simple), which was done by Matt Lewis, well MLDevelopments.
Sorry long story coming up:
The chip was removed im told when the chip was knocked out by an mot centre and the car wouldnt cold start. He was told by engine advantages the chip was fried so he took it off and it starts and runs fine bar some boost cut due to the knock sensor. It also seems to be a very rough idle so i suspect the POT isnt wired in correctly. espeically as my fault finder keeps flagging it up and its a brand new POT i brought from Ford. Oh and please note it has NO AMAL VALVE - which i am told causes no really problems as i have a -31.
When i got the car i took it off down to Power Engineering for a tune up and 165 Superchip. They thought it might have a few wiring problems as the xr loom had been used but all seemed well and it made 171bhp on the rollers, I then drove home with no problems with the car. Then the next morning i came out to it and it wouldnt start and everything was clicking on and off. i.e. Injectors and fuel pump kept priming. The starter turns fine and i have got it to start before after lots of cranking, and the hotter the engine gets the easier it starts and clicking reduces.
I took the chip of and all the clicking went away and it started on the key much to my surprise. So i took it back to PE and Iain cleaned up the ECU and reflashed the chip. He took it for a test drive and said it seemed lazy with the chip on so to leave it off until i fixed the few wiring problems. I did try the chip again the next morning and the same thing occured so i have left it off. I was sceptical of the wiring being the problem as its fine without the chip so i decided to try and new ECU. The ECU makes no difference unfortunatly so its not that either.
I thought id try swapping a few wires around to the ECU pins today using a guide i have, but on double checking it with a post of FiestaTurbo im abit lost. As there guide contridicts what i have in mine and i dont want to do any damage to the car as it does run at the moment.
This is the thread that confuses me:
http://www.fiestaturbo.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=77331
And this is the guide i have (although its seems to contridict itself anyway when it comes to the MAP sensor):
Converting an 8v 2i loom to OFAC
1) At the ECU, pin no. 27 (marked on the multiplug, brown wire) needs moving to pin 8, which is empty (this is the CO adjuster signal wire).
2) Pin no. 45 (brown/yellow) needs moving to pin 27 - this is for the MAP sensor.
3) EDIS Module pin 2 (blue/yellow) may now be disregarded as it is not used by the 0FAC ECU (pin 28 on ECU).
There are no MAP sensor pin changes as the OFAC MAP sensor is the same plug as the 2i MAP Sensor, so just plug and play.
1) At the ECU, pin no. 27 (marked on the multiplug, brown wire) needs moving to pin 8, which is empty (this is the CO adjuster signal wire).
2) Pin no. 45 (brown/yellow) needs moving to pin 27 - this is for the MAP sensor.
3) EDIS Module pin 2 (blue/yellow) may now be disregarded as it is not used by the 0FAC ECU (pin 28 on ECU).
There are no MAP sensor pin changes as the OFAC MAP sensor is the same plug as the 2i MAP Sensor, so just plug and play.
Does anyone know for sure what changes need to be made?
Has anyone come across these problems before and know a solution?
By the way: The bit on the guide you have about the map sensor means that there is no pin swaps on the plug going on to the map sensor, the only changes are made at the ECU plug end. Just read it quickly.
I'll hook them diagrams out and have a look. Personally if i were you i'd change to OFAB though.
No problem mate u abswered on my post about superchips.
Do you know by the way, if, a 1AFA superchip (removed from an EFI XR3i) can be re-flashed for a FRST?
I'll hook them diagrams out and have a look. Personally if i were you i'd change to OFAB though.
No problem mate u abswered on my post about superchips.
Do you know by the way, if, a 1AFA superchip (removed from an EFI XR3i) can be re-flashed for a FRST?
Originally Posted by safechav
By the way: The bit on the guide you have about the map sensor means that there is no pin swaps on the plug going on to the map sensor, the only changes are made at the ECU plug end. Just read it quickly.
I'll hook them diagrams out and have a look. Personally if i were you i'd change to OFAB though.
No problem mate u abswered on my post about superchips.
Do you know by the way, if, a 1AFA superchip (removed from an EFI XR3i) can be re-flashed for a FRST?
I'll hook them diagrams out and have a look. Personally if i were you i'd change to OFAB though.
No problem mate u abswered on my post about superchips.
Do you know by the way, if, a 1AFA superchip (removed from an EFI XR3i) can be re-flashed for a FRST?
TBH OFAC will do for the time being, if i want to go for more power ill swap to cossie management or a standalone system. though for now 170-200bhp will do me just fine
hmmm i cant see why one would be able to be flashed as i believe the connector is identical. Your best bet is to give a tuners a ring and they will confirm or deny that
200bhp in an orion cant be bad
I hope they can i found that superchip in a car at the scrap yard,i robbed every part for an EFI conversion, pulled the ECU out and i was like YYEAAAAA COME ON
I hope they can i found that superchip in a car at the scrap yard,i robbed every part for an EFI conversion, pulled the ECU out and i was like YYEAAAAA COME ON
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by Matt Lewis
What chip was with the car when you bought it???????????
Matt
Matt
It had a powerchip one fitted to it - little black box. Engine advantages told Russel to take that off as it was causing his starting problems but it doesnt look like it was after all.
I brought a Superchip as i thought that one was no good but it work as the superchip-no cold start but a warm start no problem.
Got any thoughts on it? Do you remember if you changed the loom when you did the conversion?
awaiting your reply
mathewwebber: Hello mate, havent forgotten about you, waiting for my mate to do me copies of these wiring diagrams (proper ford jobbies
) you know what its like when it comes to mates doing things, like trying to get blood out of a stone
mathewwebber
Right, i went round there to fix his car as he had no spark (3rd year apprentice machanic and I'M fixing his car.....whats that all about
)
anyway got the diagrams there and then, just looking through them now..........and i cant see any different sets of diagrams just an EFI wiring diagram
Joker said he had both OFAB and OFAC diagrams so i'll have to go round tomorrow and find out the crack lol
Mates eh
Right, i went round there to fix his car as he had no spark (3rd year apprentice machanic and I'M fixing his car.....whats that all about
anyway got the diagrams there and then, just looking through them now..........and i cant see any different sets of diagrams just an EFI wiring diagram
Joker said he had both OFAB and OFAC diagrams so i'll have to go round tomorrow and find out the crack lol
Mates eh
Originally Posted by safechav
mathewwebber
Right, i went round there to fix his car as he had no spark (3rd year apprentice machanic and I'M fixing his car.....whats that all about
)
anyway got the diagrams there and then, just looking through them now..........and i cant see any different sets of diagrams just an EFI wiring diagram
Joker said he had both OFAB and OFAC diagrams so i'll have to go round tomorrow and find out the crack lol
Mates eh

Right, i went round there to fix his car as he had no spark (3rd year apprentice machanic and I'M fixing his car.....whats that all about
anyway got the diagrams there and then, just looking through them now..........and i cant see any different sets of diagrams just an EFI wiring diagram
Joker said he had both OFAB and OFAC diagrams so i'll have to go round tomorrow and find out the crack lol
Mates eh

Let me know if you get some success on that one though
Originally Posted by ultimate sleeper
completley off topic but i wanna see some pics of ur car, 
Cheers mate
Click Here
Think im gonna try changing the ECT sensor - which is a temp sensor on the back of the inlet on the fiesta rst engine i think.
Anyone got one in good nick they can sort me out with?
Anyone got one in good nick they can sort me out with?
Hello mate, my mate robbed some more wiring diagrams from his work (Ford), and im totally stumped, i cant see any mention or wiring variations
However this thread may help you in the mean time, this guy seems pretty clued up on FRST EFI:
https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...013&highlight=
Your coolant temperature sender: unlikely its gone theyre pretty reliabale, but u can quite easily test it with a multimeter, i believe its negative temperature co-effecient (resisantance goes down as the water temperature increases) may be vice versa however, i can get you another one if you need it, it'll be second hand but i can test it.
Personally why dont you change over to OFAB, apparently better for mapping and then u can also upgrade to the 3bar magnetti marelli cosworth map sensor!
However this thread may help you in the mean time, this guy seems pretty clued up on FRST EFI:
https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...013&highlight=
Your coolant temperature sender: unlikely its gone theyre pretty reliabale, but u can quite easily test it with a multimeter, i believe its negative temperature co-effecient (resisantance goes down as the water temperature increases) may be vice versa however, i can get you another one if you need it, it'll be second hand but i can test it.
Personally why dont you change over to OFAB, apparently better for mapping and then u can also upgrade to the 3bar magnetti marelli cosworth map sensor!
Ive just received my Fiesta RST haynes manual i bought, and i cant find mention of any wiring variations anywhere??? Not even on an Original Ford diagram??
Makes you think doesnt it?
Makes you think doesnt it?
Ok, slight update on that, had another look and it all makes sense now.
The looms for a N/A EFI, OFAB and OFAC are all the same looms basically.
SO, the changes that should be made in your case from the standard EFI loom (assuming its a MK4 Escort EFI loom)
There is a Blue/Yellow wire running from Pin 28 of the EEC IV ECU, to Pin 2 of the E DIS 4 module, this should be cut, (check it has no continuity).
And there is a pin variation for the CO Pot (very co-incidental IMO seeing as you said your fault code reader keeps flagging the CO Pot). One of the Brown wires from the CO Pot (note there is 2 wires and one should be Negative/Earth) connects to either Pin 8, OR Pin 27 of the EEC IV ECU. The way i BELIEVE this should be (sorry the diagrams dont state which variations its for) is if your running OFAC or N/A XR3i it should be at Pin 8, and it running OFAB it should be at Pin 27.
IMO if i were you i would check that other wire is cut, and then try moving the CO Pot wire and testing with your fault reader again, certainly got nothing to lose by trying.
Oh and nearly forgot, a N/A loom doesnt have the connector for the AMAL valve on it, very easy to wire in, but not everyone runs one anyway.
The looms for a N/A EFI, OFAB and OFAC are all the same looms basically.
SO, the changes that should be made in your case from the standard EFI loom (assuming its a MK4 Escort EFI loom)
There is a Blue/Yellow wire running from Pin 28 of the EEC IV ECU, to Pin 2 of the E DIS 4 module, this should be cut, (check it has no continuity).
And there is a pin variation for the CO Pot (very co-incidental IMO seeing as you said your fault code reader keeps flagging the CO Pot). One of the Brown wires from the CO Pot (note there is 2 wires and one should be Negative/Earth) connects to either Pin 8, OR Pin 27 of the EEC IV ECU. The way i BELIEVE this should be (sorry the diagrams dont state which variations its for) is if your running OFAC or N/A XR3i it should be at Pin 8, and it running OFAB it should be at Pin 27.
IMO if i were you i would check that other wire is cut, and then try moving the CO Pot wire and testing with your fault reader again, certainly got nothing to lose by trying.
Oh and nearly forgot, a N/A loom doesnt have the connector for the AMAL valve on it, very easy to wire in, but not everyone runs one anyway.
Spot on mate exactly what i was after that
Thats basically waht my guide was saying but its great that you can confirm that. Ill try swapping my CO pin if its different but im not sure where it is. as for the others i think the edis has been removed as suggested and i am not running the amal so it looks like its just a case of moving one wire. That may solve my problem but i have been told its likely to be either the ECT or maybe the Fuel pressure regulator or even the tps. If the wiring doesnt help ill try the ect first
Many thanks
Also just to confirm to change the wires over you need to remove the red strip on the ECU connector and then push them out with a small allen key or similar?
Thats basically waht my guide was saying but its great that you can confirm that. Ill try swapping my CO pin if its different but im not sure where it is. as for the others i think the edis has been removed as suggested and i am not running the amal so it looks like its just a case of moving one wire. That may solve my problem but i have been told its likely to be either the ECT or maybe the Fuel pressure regulator or even the tps. If the wiring doesnt help ill try the ect first
Many thanks
Also just to confirm to change the wires over you need to remove the red strip on the ECU connector and then push them out with a small allen key or similar?
No problem
Well, its worthwhile checking both anyway, i would do just so i could satisfy myself its all ok.
With regard to sensors, if any of them were faulty then i would expect the fault to be evident all the time. Both the sensors are easy to test, the tps sensor can be checked with a multimeter set to resistance, just check it has a reading across all of its stroke and that it rises steadily and smoothly. The CTS, check its resistance then pop it in some hot water and check to see the resistance changes.
Fuel pressure regulator, if it was faulty i would expect it to cold start poorly whatever really, chip or no chip, but these are easy peasy to change although you probably need to pay someone to set it up, i can get you a second hand one if you cant get hold of one.
The plug......
i haven't played around with mine yet as i haven't fitted it, that however does sound about right, although i would expect there to be some little locking tags to bend in slightly which locks the pins in when pushed into the plug (obviously need bending back out gently before re-inserting). As with everything just be gentle and it will be ok
Let me know how u get on
Well, its worthwhile checking both anyway, i would do just so i could satisfy myself its all ok.
With regard to sensors, if any of them were faulty then i would expect the fault to be evident all the time. Both the sensors are easy to test, the tps sensor can be checked with a multimeter set to resistance, just check it has a reading across all of its stroke and that it rises steadily and smoothly. The CTS, check its resistance then pop it in some hot water and check to see the resistance changes.
Fuel pressure regulator, if it was faulty i would expect it to cold start poorly whatever really, chip or no chip, but these are easy peasy to change although you probably need to pay someone to set it up, i can get you a second hand one if you cant get hold of one.
The plug......
i haven't played around with mine yet as i haven't fitted it, that however does sound about right, although i would expect there to be some little locking tags to bend in slightly which locks the pins in when pushed into the plug (obviously need bending back out gently before re-inserting). As with everything just be gentle and it will be ok Let me know how u get on
Ok just to add to that, ive just whipped out my OFAB loom as its in the room, and my CO Pot signal wire is on Pin 8.
Ive just been re-reading that Fiesta Turbo guide.....its actually really pants, if you read the first one (XR2i - OFAB), it states the pin changes, then the next one (XR2i - OFAC), your doing in reverse all the changes needed for OFAB (returning it to how it was, an XR2i loom). So, cut a long story short, the XR2i loom in the first conversion is wired different to the one in the second conversion
Uhhhhhhhh..........NO!
SO anyway, i believe your CO Pot wire should be on pin 27.
Let me know how u get on because theres also a variation on the MAP sensor wire concerning Pin 27 aswell, that Fiesta Turbo guide is well confusing, we'll sort this one out
Ive just been re-reading that Fiesta Turbo guide.....its actually really pants, if you read the first one (XR2i - OFAB), it states the pin changes, then the next one (XR2i - OFAC), your doing in reverse all the changes needed for OFAB (returning it to how it was, an XR2i loom). So, cut a long story short, the XR2i loom in the first conversion is wired different to the one in the second conversion
SO anyway, i believe your CO Pot wire should be on pin 27.
Let me know how u get on because theres also a variation on the MAP sensor wire concerning Pin 27 aswell, that Fiesta Turbo guide is well confusing, we'll sort this one out
I think thats where it should be, and as your running OFAC thats where it will have always been, as its the same as a N/A loom, you should also find you map sensor is on pin 45.
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