Right new rads in, and everythings wired up, and the fans still aint kicking in when they should be

I've bridged the fan switch with a wire in the end and they still aint kicking in, but when i put the wire in i can hear a 'clicking' sound from near the fusebox, the only fuse i can see is a 30a one which is fine, any other ideas?!?!?! if i put a wire from the batt straight too the fans they come on so the fans are ok

 

I think there is a cable broken from the fan-relais to the fan, maybe you can check that out.

Greetz

 

WEll we have another problem now


Just taken it for a spin with the main fan wires connected to the batt so the fans stays on all the time, same thing, temp went sky high so bought it home, to find steam pissing out the rad So looks like something else is also fucked, any ideas?!?! At a guess theres a pressure build up but the hoses are fine and the rads new just hope its come from a pipe and not blown the new rad

 

Headgasket.

 

How can it be headgasket when ive only just put it together thou, and its a group a

Surely would be pissing out from side of the block?!

 

Maybe the thermostat is cloosed and won't open, if that's not the case i would also think the headgasket

Greetz

 

Well before i got the new rad i took the stat out and ran it without one and it still did the same so put it back in earlier

Again thou how can the headgasket be causing it its new?!

 

There are 2 things left.

1. There's air in you're cooling system, maybe in you're radiator thats in the car for the heating.

2. You're new headgasket has damaged while fitting

BTW is you're belowest coolingshose on the radiator warm or cold.

Greetz

 

How would i check/bleed the air out if there is any mate?! Assming runnign the car with the pressure cap off? is so done that

Cheers for the advice.

Ermmm not too sure on the bottom hose if im honest tis in the garage now so cant really check, seems as if theres not enuff water getting to the head as obviously the water cools it so without enuff the temp would go high as thats where the sensor is, theres no aparent leaks from the head gasket either from what i can see.

 

Any other ideas

 

Just a thought, if the water pump aint working properly would iget the same symptoms?!

 

[quote="Toe Knee"]How would i check/bleed the air out if there is any mate?! Assming runnign the car with the pressure cap off? is so done that

TAKE THE CAP OFF OPEN THE AIR VENTS FULLY WITH THE BLOWER

THE FANS WIRE THEM UP FROM THE BATT WITH 1 WIRE THOUGH THE SWITCH IN THE FAN WILL RUN ONLY WHEN WARM THEN

GOT THE CRANK NEXT WEEK OK

 

Tony i got the same problems
Drove to trax fans were fine, kicking in etc
just as i started queuing the temp started to rise sharply. Pulled over let her cool down etcetc got back in the queue and finally it over heated.
Same as you new gaskets etcetc group a head gasket.

Bridged the fans at trax, nothing.
Wired straight to the battery and they worked so the fans are ok.
Checked the fuse and thats fine too
It is a know fact the wiring can break down.
Neilm knows a guy that is making fan wiring looms that don't need any soldering and i should be getting one off him but for the time being i've got it running on a switch directly off the battery.

If it doesn't run directly off the battery your fans are fooked
Note; you can bleed the system using the bleed next to the stat
HTH

 

Hello mate, they work if i run wires striaght from the car batt like you are!! wheres the bleed next to the stat cos i havnt seen 1

Also wheres the fuse for the fans as the only 1 i can see is for the car heater (no18 i think 30a)

Cheers

 

Check the wiring below the fuse in the fusebox.

In my flint grey car this had melted underneath where all the fuses sit.


Dave.

 

Tony,

With the car running there should be water circulating round the engine, take the header tank cap off and look into the tank with it running....you should see a constant flow of water coming from the upper most hose when it's warm....if there isn't then I susspect you either have air still in there or you have a fooked water pump (assuming it still did it with the stat out).

 

Cheers Dave, will have a look.

Yea thats what im thinkin Daz, after its had time to warm up the level rises in the header tank and even with the cap on there so much pressure its overflowing. Which 1 u mean by upper most?! the turbo feed one? if so thats disconnected at mo. Faye pointed something out, my heater aint working, even tho the fuse is ok, and if its blocked there there will be a fair bit of back pressure poss causing the problem if the water aint getting round it!!! Gonna bypass the heater matrix so the water goes straight to the oil cooler and see what happens.

 

check the relay in the fuse box. find out which one by bridging the plug on the loom (one for a sec a a time) and get your mate to put finger on relay to locate it.

i think its short yellow 1 closest to the fuses.

then check the pins on the relay ain't got melted plastic on them that'll stop the fans and give it a wiggle. cos the fan relay's r normally connected together ie fans on engine with fan for heater. check some other things you'll probally find your hazzards ain't working either.

also as daz said look in the header tank for the steady flow out of top hose.

HTH
cheers
dan

 

I did mean the turbo return......

If your heater BLOWER is not working then that will not have anything to do with your over heating problem. If the matrix is blocked then it might cause a problem...a straight pipe joint on both heater hoses will elliminate that.

Recent 2wd water pumps from Ford had been tested by Karl Norris and found to be substandard for Cossie engines (they were ordinary pinto pumps) so if yours has had a new Ford water pump recently I would throw it away and get a different one...

 

Which one would u reccomend getting then?! Pump i mean, got it ages ago, were talkin ermmm may time?! but has only done about 2000miles.

Yea thats what i was aiming at, the matrix being blocked causing the back pressure!! will know tomorrow when i bridge the 2 pipes

For the fan switch and heater not to be working theres an obvious elec prob, are there relays for em both as the fuse for the blower is fine despite it not working and cant see a fuse for fan switch?! Theres loads in the fusebox but none are marked up. For now just need to eliminate this back pressure so fingers crossed its the matrix, wheres neo when u need him

 

Best speak to Karl Norris or Stu or someone else like that about what pumps they would use..... It was earlier on this year Karl found the dodgy pumps...around may/june time....

 

Cheers for the help mate, will do the pipe thing tomoz and see what happens

 

Let us know mate - best of luck!

 

Well.................on the plus side the heater fans are workin lol, downside is ive still got the same prob despite bypassing the heater matrix

Only port of call now really is to change the water pump b4 i well and truely give up

 

Oh and only just noticed this soz Dan!!

Will have a look for that relay tomorrow, when i bridge the fan switch i can hear a clicking noise from the fusebox if that means anything!! Also noticed the front right indicator doesnt want to work despite bulb being ok.

 

check wether the heater is blowing hot or cold
more like a circulation problem stat or water pump
try changing the fan relay for the fan fault

 

Well the heater wont be blowing hot till i reconnect the pipes to the matrix!! but thats eliminaetd as a fault now ive bypassed it and its still the same, and the stat is out at mo so unless its the pump then its something serious = engine out again



Oh yea forgot to mention, also noticed when the gauge was in red, the top hose coming from stat housing was hot hot, where as the bottom one that goes from pump to the rad was only warmish, could that be indicating pump aswell?!

 

Don't take the engine out for no reason!! Just take the head off and have it checked to make sure it's flat and also that the block is flat. Get the head crack tested.....but first of all is get that pump changed....that's the next suspect item(assuming you still have your fans on constantly and it is still over heating regardless and when driving it???)

 

yes poor circulation connect the hearter matrix back up that wouldn't cause the fault
had the same problem on a bmw back of the water pump broke up got to b worth trying that b4 taking the engine out

 

Well didnt have the fans on constant, gotta wire in a proper switch for now with decent wire as the wire im using is shite lol. But wouldnt have thought it would have gone into the red from just starting it and letting it idle would it?! Still more worried bout the header tank still overflowing due to a pressure build up, thats obiously related to water not circulating properly IMO, spec as the stat hosing to rad pipe ends up really hot even with the stat removed whereas the pump to rad pipe is only warm without fans or cold air from driving it!!

Yea didnt mean literally take the whole engine out as in what u said whip the head of and get it/the block checked etc!!

 

Tony,

All cooling systems run at pressure when warm...they do this for a reason (water boiling point increases when it is under pressure. For example instead of boiling at 100 degrees it will boil at 120 degrees under a certain pressure).

Yes the temp will go up enough to put the guage into the red if the fans do not work. If you ignore it and left it idling then eventually it will get hot enough for the piston to expand in the bore and seize. When a vehicle is left stationary while running the cooling fans are the ONLY thing that stop it from over heating (this statement excludes diesels where the heater will actually cool a diesel down as they run a lot cooler than petrols). What stops the car from over heating when moving is the air flow through the front of the car. The fans are not used at all while the vehicle is moving unless it's moving at low speed.

If your car over heates while traveling then you have a problem. The car will WANT to over heat when it's stationary (as if sat in traffic) because it doesn't have the air flow through the radiator to keep it cool which is where your cooling fans come in.

If it is building up an excess of pressure then you have a head gasket problem. To check this you need to run the car from cold with a cooling systems pressure tester connected with no pressure on the guage to the header tank. watch the guage as the car gets warm. It should rise and hold around 10 psi of pressure gradually as the engine warms up. This will rise slightly when you rev the engine up and drop back when you let it idle. If when you start it from cold, it rises rapidly, or it suddenly starts to rise rapidly and doesn't stop rising (you will have a danger marking on the pressure tester guage..usually a red band from 15 psi upwards) and goes into the danger band then you have a head gasket problem.

Another thing is I have known the header tank cap on 2wd Cossies to become weak and not let the cooling system to build up to it's normal operating pressure so get a new one of them.....

You need to find out if the car over heats or gets up towrds the red while driving at a steady speed of say around 40mph. If it does then you have a problem and I would repalce that water pump AND header tank cap.

Let me know how you get on.

 

Bad news

Done it and still the same problem, gauge still goes into the red even with the fans on constatnly while driving. Noticed again that the top coolant hose gets hot where as the bottom one connecting to the pump still stays cool?! Could that indicate the pump by any miracle?! ie not circulating the water properly.

Gonna try get it pressure tested to see what the score is with that, think i should ha broke the car ages ago

 

U sure gauge is going into the red is not due to a sender touching ground?? Does it happen as soon u put the key in and not turn the engine on?

 

Nah mate, sensor is new, well 2kmiles old if that and was fine b4 melting the piiston a few months back. Gradually rises in temp till it hits red.

 

yes - have the car pressure tested - maybe the thermo is hot at where the sender is...maybe something must be clogged - u feeling cold coolant by the water pump? When u squeeze it, can u feel water?? Did u open the radiator and actually add water to it by using a funnel into the top inlet? do this now. Can u add water? Then run it with the header cap off to release the air. Does this new radiator use a radiator cap??

 

Eh what when where?! lol

Yea the bottom pipes cold going to the rad from pump, there isnt an inlet to the rad thou mate other than filling thru the header tank

 

you need to fill via a funnel into the topmost inlet. Remove the hose, attach a funnel, add coolant, refit hose, keep header tank cap off, run car.

Does ur car have a thermostat? Have u replaced the water pump?

 

Tony
Have no worries about the block surface mate as i drove the car that it came out of all the way back from Portsmouth and the coolant temp didn't even go to half way!
From the sound of things the coolant isn't circulating mate!
Take the rad out and flush it properly and flush the whole coolant sytem thoroughly!!
If that doesn't work then i can only think it will be the water pump buggered or thermostat not opening!!! Do not just because it is new discount the stat as they can stop working at any time and i once bought 3 new ones before i got one that worked!!!!
Best of luck mate but i personaly do not believe from what i have read on here that it is your headgasket etc....

 

PM me ur phone number and i'll guide u

 

Tony,

Do this!