Doodah

Morning, been looking at doing the mrs 1.7 Puma cambelt as it's just turned 80 (000)

Went pricy first with a quote from local Ford garage, lol £590 inc water pump but they reckon crank pully may not come off & last two they did needed air-chiselling off & then replacing! Extra £200 they reckon if it's stuck = £790

To start with, not that I've worked on these but does the crank pulley even need to come off? On most other engines I thought you just undid the tensioner...been looking at forums on here today though & it looks like it's never easy, not a job for me

Would I be better off just carying on with it til 100-110K miles & then fit a silvertop? 1.6 or 1.8 Zetec E I guess it'll be bit lower at the front but otherwise will it go (more or less) straight in? Anyone else done this?

Other than that it's a nice car, no welding to do so far, touch wood

Cheers

haz87

Silvertops dont just drop in.
Crank pulleys arent that difficult to get off. Bit of heat and a decent puller on these engines.
Easy enough to DIY if you have a bit of mechanical sense

Adam-M

These engines are piss easy to do, I've did two and both pulleys came off with either a puller or a pry bar.

Remove crank pulley, remove belt covers, slacken tensioner and remove belt, slacken cam pulleys so they spin freely without trying to rotate cams (cams and crank don't have woodruff keys), use locking pin to set crank to tdc on cyl 1, use timing bar to set timing of cam shafts, fit and tension the timing belt, then tighten exhaust pulley and then the inlet pulley.

That is a breif description but remember to not tighten against the timing tools or you'll snap them.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Hi matey ive done timing belts on 12.5 1.6 and 17 zetec engines. The 1.25 and 1.7 crank/auxiliary pulley came off but the 1.6 one didnt. I had to smash the bottom cam cover off cause it has 2 sections to it.

It has took me about 3 hours to do them all over the years. You need to use a crank locking pin cause once the aux pulley bolt is off the crank pulley is free floating.

We have still go our focus 1.6 which i had to smash the cover off ad its got 133k on it now. I just made sure i got all the bits of the timing cover out from where the timing belt is.

Doodah

Thanks chaps, yikes

Ford garage said they used all the stuff you'd normally try - penetrating oil, heat etc but as said they told me nothing worked. Here's the horror stories I found earlier:

https://passionford.com/forum/esp_se...+belt&type=gcs

...what's a Ford Puma Timing Tool?? As you can see some folks have had right trouble and written in to here for urgent help. I appreciate you've all managed it but to me it sounds like a nightmare - for a start, I'm just assuming you did it all with the engine still in the car?!?

What's piss easy for some can write off a car for others I'm about happy doing a CVH belt (not a trained mechanic) but these Zetecs are way more complex, saying that I'm sure I could change a silvertop belt but all this VCT floating pulleys & pins etc on the SE just freaks me out

When I said drop a silvertop straight in I know the manifolds are different, I'd use adapter plates / get another manif for exhaust also I guess top rear engine mount might be different but will it go in other than that, on the 1.8 or 1.6 sump and using existing (1.7) flywheel & clutch? Also is there anything electrical that might not work, like will the old VCT module be okay with nothing to control etc? I'm sure I read about someone on here with a 2.0 blacktop in theirs...

Other than that doubt I'll have the bottle to get stuck in myself, prob take to a non-dealer garage for this job or drive til it breaks won't be paying £790 though fo sho

haz87

Im not a trained mechanic, and CVH's were all i ever knew too! Then started getting friends with Zetecs wanting help and so dived in. They are piss easy, just get the locking tool kit (usually made by laser - available from Euro car parts or ebay etc) and be methodic.
If your that worried, mark everything up with tippex first so if you get part way through and think "nope im fucking this up" you still have reference points for the original alignment and can return it to that

Doodah

Thanks good thinking, yea ok expect I'll have a go at it

Had a glance at it & looks as if it might be ok to get to most of it with engine in, surely though engine needs to be out or at least dropped a bit on the belt end to get a puller in there if need be?

No Haynes available for this car which is annoying

Adam-M

Yeah undo drivers side engine mount and lower engine on jack just enough to gain access.

You'll need a new crank bolt as they're stretch bolts and an angle gauge to tighten, I had a puma racing DVD manual off eBay sadly I've now lost it or I'd send you it. Iirc it was a fiver and I'd highly recommend you get one for torque settings ect.

Remember this engine doesn't use keyways so can be confusing and marking stuff won't work. If your stuck pm me and I'll try help.

Adam

Colin_P

I don't know what access is like on the Puma, but I've done a 1.25 on a Fiesta and a 1.6 on a Focus. I'm a DIY'er by the way and found them quite straight forward to do...

Getting TDC with the help of an extenion bar down the spark plug hole. It is east to get things 180 degrees out for the cam locking bar, I just find this quicker to get TDC before putting the pin in the block..


Remove the plug and then insert this pin into the block, then slowly rotate crank until it is stopped by this pin.


Then put the locking bar in for the cams. This might not go in on both cams if the belt has been on the car for a long time but should only be a knats cock off. Once the old belt is off there are flats on the cams you can get a spanner on to turn them.


Always a good idea to to the waterpump although this can be done without disturbing the cambelt on these. Access is just easier to do it at this time.




And new belt on




Remove the cam locking bar and pin, turn it over by hand at, I do it four times, then put the timing tools back in to check, all good, put it back together.

It is also a good idea to change the aux belt tensioner a while it is all off.

Doodah

Nice one lads cheers for all that, good info there...great pics Colin guess that's the proper Puma Timing Tool kit with the correct size pins etc, ?

Sadly can't find that DVD on Ebay Adam, bit of a lack of info on this engine all round - my local Ford garage might advise torque settings though as they're quite helpful at times unless Glenn_ or haz87 you can remember what settings you used?

Only found out yesterday car's not quite reached 80000 yet mrs being over-cautious, just under so can put off for a while phew lol

Ta mate that may well happen