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Hi Folks,
I thought at my age pulling out engines was long gone but here goes anyway.
I have a Dax Rush kitcar with a cossie engine, engine and gearbox being removed so I can work on the gearbox. At the back end of last year she was running rough when cold and rich when warmed up, removal is not easy as it's a tight fit. (Really tight)
As I was working my way around the engine removing various bits n bobs, I thought the cooling water flow route looked a bit strange, I decided to make a diagram of this route and ask for advice. The car has an old type temp gauge yet when I came to the temp sender ( next to the turbo ) there isn't any wires??????? I looked everywhere and there is definately no wires, so where the ECU gets its temp from beats me. Last year I fitted a sender unit in the main top oulet hose to the radiator and a digital temp gauge in the dash. I checked the reading prior to fitting in a pan of water on the stove with a large thermometer and it was pretty acurate. when on the road the temp does jump about a bit and can easily hit 102 degrees.
Last year I had a small leak around the stat housing whic I repaired and the stat was checked and tested then. The car does have a few more issues that I have still to get to, so I'm starting with the cooling first. Would anyone please like to comment
I have added some numbers to the diagram if it helps
ecu gets its temp of the sender at rear of cyl head on early cars ...[coolant temp sensor]-and a separate sender for temp iirc[like most early injection cars]
good practice to run a new engine harness and full new sensor kit for the old ybs tbh
The gauge sender is independent and works in a totally different way to the blue CTS, which is at the back of the head on the inlet side, this will be connected or the engine would not run.
Hold on folks................. I'm confused.
The temp sender i found ( with no wire ) is in front of the turbo and not behind.
the sender at the rear of the block on the inlet side, i thought was oil as its next to a small bore braided hose.
the one with two pins[ bright blue plastic....plug in] coolant temp sensor
the other are for the gauge-single pop on threaded body-not changed much scince old escorts
Thanks for all the replies folks.
The ecu senser loom looks like its seen better days and will need replacing, not sure what road to take here. A friend mentioned a new ecu set-up with a probe fitted in the exhaust manifold to bring this motor up to date ( for want of a better word ) but would this new set-up come with all the necessary wires and cossie plugs???????
Need to get the thinking cap on.
Stripped many an engine many years ago but no ecu's or turbo's so this is a learning curve for me.
What set-up ( ecu's ) do you Dax Rush guys have?
In fact, what set-up do I have?
Going to be busy on my next days off
hmm,,,i'd say you'll end up spending it everywhere.
My first spend was on the rad and intercooler,worth every penny,especially anything over standard,assuming you have the standard dax rad.
One more nightshift to go then 4 days in the garage pulling her apart.
1. Yes, I plan to remove the ecu wiring harness and replace it. I need advice please on the best way forward, do I build it myself or just buy one? I have seen these advertised for around Ł500 which seems a bit OTT to me. I need to check my ecu type first prior to looking into closed loop or whatever you folks suggest. I take it all the different ecu's use the same harness??????
2. I will post pics of my radiator in the hope that someone will be able to tell me whether it's the bog standard Dax Rush issue, then some advice please on where to get the correct upgrade. ( fan on the front or the rear etc etc etc
you can get all the ends in a kit to make/repair your own harness-dont see why you couldnt make a decent job tackling it diy-closed loop is a good thing to have-but not a must have imho-if its a fun toy/competition car a decent generic chip/injectors/turbo= plenty power
03-03-2015, 12:21 PM
Cossie YB engine
