slow cranking starter after rebuild??
#1
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slow cranking starter after rebuild??
Just rebuilt my brothers A4 1.8T after it broke down (exhaust valves were bent after top end oil starvation) but it wont crank over properly. I've checked all earths and connections as well as removed starter and it test all ok.
I replaced the following;
Oil pump + pick up pipe
Big end shells
Exhaust Valves
Water Pump
Could it be that the engine needs a tow to get the oil pressure up after the rebuild? It seems to be very tight. See below link to video of cranking.
http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x...10205-1132.mp4
Not Ford based I know but need some expert help lads!
I replaced the following;
Oil pump + pick up pipe
Big end shells
Exhaust Valves
Water Pump
Could it be that the engine needs a tow to get the oil pressure up after the rebuild? It seems to be very tight. See below link to video of cranking.
http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x...10205-1132.mp4
Not Ford based I know but need some expert help lads!
Last edited by kaisersolsay; 06-02-2011 at 09:10 PM.
#2
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make sure your battery is fully charged or you have some sort of jumper pack on it, this will help you cranking speed.
also take the plugs out.
did you fit the right size bearings?
also take the plugs out.
did you fit the right size bearings?
#3
PassionFord Post Troll
did you check the bearing to journal clearnace?
did you turn it over by hand to check it turned over freely (spark plugs out)?
Battery FULLY charged? tried jump leads?
did you turn it over by hand to check it turned over freely (spark plugs out)?
Battery FULLY charged? tried jump leads?
#5
20K+ Super Poster.
Sounds a little slow on the starter, but plenty fast enough to start, just build oil pressure and start.
I assume the bearings are not tight and that you turned the engine over by hand, often with new pistons/bores they can be tight and slow the starter but this doesn't sound a worry on yours.
tabetha
I assume the bearings are not tight and that you turned the engine over by hand, often with new pistons/bores they can be tight and slow the starter but this doesn't sound a worry on yours.
tabetha
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#8
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Hi,
Crank and cam timing marks spot on and battery is fully charged and I've tried with leads. I might not be cranking it for long enough though as I'm only cranking for max of 5-6 seconds. I'll try for 30 seconds at a time.
The crank turned relatively easily by hand once the new shells were fitted although it was very tight at TDC.
I have taken the cam cover off and all buckets appear to be closed. I think I will try and tow if it doesn't do anything cranking for 30 seconds ,and see if the buckets fill with oil. I'm thinking that the valves aren't opening.
My mate has my compression tester and he's off shore right now so I've ordered a new one and will test tomw when its delivered.
Thanks for all your replys!
Crank and cam timing marks spot on and battery is fully charged and I've tried with leads. I might not be cranking it for long enough though as I'm only cranking for max of 5-6 seconds. I'll try for 30 seconds at a time.
The crank turned relatively easily by hand once the new shells were fitted although it was very tight at TDC.
I have taken the cam cover off and all buckets appear to be closed. I think I will try and tow if it doesn't do anything cranking for 30 seconds ,and see if the buckets fill with oil. I'm thinking that the valves aren't opening.
My mate has my compression tester and he's off shore right now so I've ordered a new one and will test tomw when its delivered.
Thanks for all your replys!
#10
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I've checked the compression and I'm getting zero reading from any cylinder which would suggest the new valves I've fitted have been bent or are not opening due to the tappets not filling??
It has been suggested that the woodruff key in the bottom pulley has broken however the crank pulley bolt is solid with no sign of any movement, however upon inspection this evening the cam pulley bolt does move slightly when turned counter-clockwise with a socket, feels like it would undo quite easily. I probably need to remove the head and inspect but would rather try and assess for bent valves without removing the head. Is there anyone of checking for bent valves without removing the head....also how do I check the tappets are opening the valves?
Any tips?
It has been suggested that the woodruff key in the bottom pulley has broken however the crank pulley bolt is solid with no sign of any movement, however upon inspection this evening the cam pulley bolt does move slightly when turned counter-clockwise with a socket, feels like it would undo quite easily. I probably need to remove the head and inspect but would rather try and assess for bent valves without removing the head. Is there anyone of checking for bent valves without removing the head....also how do I check the tappets are opening the valves?
Any tips?
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Thanks.
I've timed the motor back up before removing the head and noted the position on the marks on the cams. Both inlet and exhaust cam marks are completely out despite the cam sprocket mark and cranks marks being bang on. Looking at both marks on the rear of the cams they are both out of time equally which strikes to me that the front cam sprocket has somehow loosened and thus bending the valves.
See pics below of cam timing marks...both are 2 chain links out to the left. I bit hard to see in the pics but you can just make out the cam marks.
[/img]
I've timed the motor back up before removing the head and noted the position on the marks on the cams. Both inlet and exhaust cam marks are completely out despite the cam sprocket mark and cranks marks being bang on. Looking at both marks on the rear of the cams they are both out of time equally which strikes to me that the front cam sprocket has somehow loosened and thus bending the valves.
See pics below of cam timing marks...both are 2 chain links out to the left. I bit hard to see in the pics but you can just make out the cam marks.
[/img]
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