saph in dorset

Warm start issue.

Hey guys I am now at a loss at trying to figure this one out so thought I would ask for some help.

I am putting this same message on several forums to try and get the widest knowledge base I can.

Ok well I fitted a BOA engine to my sapphire originally with an MT75 gearbox. Running it like this for 4 months I had absolutely no warm start problems at all. The only problem I had was a gearbox issue.

However to solve the gearbox issue I converted to using the cossie T5 box. Obviously this required a different starter motor. (This was hard enough to find as it was) I know the bendix gear is correct as I am using the same bendix from the starter I was using originally. I also know that it is not going into far when throwing as I had a spacer made up.

Well the warm start problems surfaced last summer after I changed the gearbox. However I managed with the problem and once it got to winter it was cold enough for the engine to cool down quickly so I didn’t really have much of a problem. However for the last few months since it has warmed up it has started to get really bad to the point that I have to make sure that I leave the engine to cool down for at least 30 minutes before trying to start again (causing major embarrassment when trying to start after filling up with petrol, thankfully an AA van was there to help me out)

Ok I have been trying to find the problem for the last few days. I will list what I have tried so you won’t be suggesting something I have already tried.

1. battery checked at a battery place for cranking power
2. adding an extra power lead from battery to starter motor
3. I got the starter motor refurbished, with a new solenoid etc. – no difference
4. added 2 extra earth straps, so I now have earth straps from exhaust to body, starter motor bolt to inner wing, engine to inner wing same position.
5. changing the exciter lead from ignition switch to the starter motor
6. putting a direct power feed from battery to ignition switch
7. By passing ignition switch by going from battery to a switch and then to the starter motor.

I carried out several voltage tests with the engine warm and cool to see the difference and these are the results, all the tests were whilst cranking:

1. voltage across battery– 12+ volts warm and cold
2. voltage across solenoid power in and starter motor body – 8.4v when warm 11+v when cool,
3. voltage across solenoid to starter link to starter body – 7.5/8.5v when warm 11+v when cold
4. There were 3 more tests to check the voltage drop insulated link, voltage drop solenoid contacts and voltage drop earth line which all should be less than 0.5v and they were.


All of these seemed to help but when the engine got warm made no difference and it still cranks over very slowly when warm.

When the engine is cold/cool it cranks perfectly fine.

Sorry for the essay but thought I would give as much info as I could. Any help I would much appreciate it as I now don’t want to drive my car when I no I wont be long between stops.

Thanks in advance

Adam

The Youth.

iTrader: (1)

well I'm stuck you seemed to have tried everything I would have suggested..

steve

mk2 cossie

you say you have volt tested the leads and all come up ok, fitted two extra earth straps and still the problem persists

have you replace the battery to body earth lead? or even checked for any dry joints on the power and earth leads? (although they should show up on the voltage test )

only other thing is a dieing starte motor i guess

saph in dorset

ok well thanks for that. it is a very strange one as i have done everyhting i could think of.

how would i test for dry joints other than doing a voltage/resistance test?

my thoughts are lending towards getting a new starter even though i did get it refurbed

opposite lock

iTrader: (3)

could the alternator affect this ? i.e getting too hot. just a thought

mike

mk2 cossie

was the starter rebuild well enough though?

only real way to check for dry joints is to wiggle the cables whilst doing the continuity or voltage test, and seeing if that affects the readings at all. otherwise, stripping the cables down and try to look at the terminal joints on the wiring

saph in dorset

well that is part of the reason wh y iam thinking about trying a new starter. it has been suggested that itry a heat sheild as the starter may be getting just too hot being below the exhaust, so i will try that first as a simple thing and then will look into more if it doesnt work.

johnandhissaffy

iTrader: (1)

you could try going onto ford sierra owners club mate there is loads of people on there that have done this convertion
who made your loom can i ask ???

saph in dorset

I am a member on there and that was the first place I posted this topic.

They have come up with a fee suggestions so far but nothing concrete on what would fix it.

I am the loom myself from a BOA engine loom and just connected it to the Sierra car loom

The Youth.

iTrader: (1)

I run this conversion and I don't have a heatshield round my starter and so far I have no hot start issues

steve