AshleyRst

ok have recently bought a Fiesta Rs turbo, when i wasnt looking , my mate decided be clever to unplug a yellow relay under the bonnet withouth first checking what went where, it was connected to the fan and thermo, and also another wire running to the ignition i belive, has anybody else had this problem and can you give me some advice on what i should do, i have enclosed a pic, and also what i belive is the ignition relay is no longer on the fusebox its a green 5 pin one, my main problems are as follows:
Fan doesnt kick in when car gets hot
no interior light
No interior clock
Sidelights on rear lights come on with ignition
Ignition lights stay on



If you could advise me i would greatly appreciate it as im taking it for its mot next week :0. thanks in advance Ash

bythomson

[quote=AshleyRst;4922780]ok have recently bought a Fiesta Rs turbo, when i wasnt looking , my mate decided be clever to unplug a yellow relay under the bonnet withouth first checking what went where, it was connected to the fan and thermo, and also another wire running to the ignition i belive, has anybody else had this problem and can you give me some advice on what i should do, i have enclosed a pic, and also what i belive is the ignition relay is no longer on the fusebox its a green 5 pin one, my main problems are as follows:
Fan doesnt kick in when car gets hot
no interior light
No interior clock
Sidelights on rear lights come on with ignition
Ignition lights stay on



my advice would be to seek helpfrom a auto sparkie
wiring is shitty and complicated, unless its just me, as the relays arent in the right place either it sounds like someone has already been at it

AshleyRst

ah thats the problem he wants my pants down and Ł500 notes ive fixed the ignition light issue and also the rear lights so thats two down 3 or 4 to go.

boothy

iTrader: (14)

Well tell him to fuck off end of try someone else. Should be around Ł30-Ł50 an hour

AshleyRst

lol dont worry i did exactly that, the maint problems started when a wire touched the body, a yellow live wire to be precise from the head unit, i have since changed all the relays and fuses, but im awaiting to take it for an mot, but the garge is 5 or 10 mins away, and i fear i will knacker the engine with no fan working

**caz**

be a bit worrying especially when it comes to the emissions test

AshleyRst

yeah ive been trying all sorts of combo's but no luck at all, it had one wire to the battery and im sure it had one to ignition on the inside and then one for the fan and one for the thermo, if anyone knows the combo please share, feels like im banging my head on a wall.

AshleyRst

ok sorry to double post, i think ive found the problem, it is set up to always run the fan and thermo, how do i take the wiring back to standard ?

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

You definitely need the fan working otherwise you could lose your engine, the relay pictured controls the fans. There are four wires, two will be lives one permanent and one switched or both permanent depending on weather fans are under ignition control, don't know on these cars.

This leaves two wires, one is the ground for the relay which goes via the fan switch which is on your thermostat housing hence the wire which goes over there wire, and the other is the live to the fan, when fan switch closes this trips the relay hence switching fans on.

Normally yellow wire on the head unit is the constant live and would have blown the fuse this is probably why the interior light no longer works as there on the same circuit.

If you are competent with electrics, all your problems are DIY!

Martin

AshleyRst

wow, thanks alot have pretty much sorted this today, tried to get the original wiring back but to no prevail, so think im just going to put it back to come on with the ignition as like martin said i need my fan , as for the head unit problem, ive changed all the fans and still not able to get the interior light or the clock working, the clock light comes on with the sidelight but shows no digits at all.

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

the fan setup is easy, just give it a live feed when ignition is on via a relay and then break the positive feed from relay to fan via the fan switch in the thrmostat housing.
voila as Ford did it in the first place.

AshleyRst

i have been trying to do this all day, and if im honest im more of a body work man so new to electrics, if you could just elaborate which wires i need to connect.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

The relay has four terminals, One wire is constant live, there is a second live wire which I think switched live via ignition meaning it only has power when the ignition is switched on, another wire is the live wire to the fan.

This leaves one wire the relay earth which is the wire you say goes off to the themostat this is where the fan switch is and it connectes to this and the other wire going to this switch connects to earth.

Someone has obviously messed with the wiring before as the relay should be in the fuse box along with the rest.

It may be the fuse has blown which protects the fans if the original setup is as shocking as the Cosworth's to test you need to check you have +12V at two terminals with ignition switched on.

I assume you know the fan should only cycle if there is insufficent natural airflow, I.E when stuck in slow moving traffic.

The interior light problem defo sounds like a fuse, no relay is involved, have you checked all the fuses?

Martin

AshleyRst

All fuses have been swapped out, checked the relay solved all other problems bar the fan and light + clock, now ive tried numerous combo's tonight with my rs at temp and the fan just wont kick in at all, so made sure the fan works, connect a piece of wire to the nlack and red wire of the fan and it started, so this leaves the fan switch ??

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Doubt it the switches are generally reliable but let down by the wiring which is far more likely, when you say you tested the fans the red wire should of come out the relay but where did you disconnect/find the earth from and I presume you connected direct to battery? Obviously this should be connected to ground as well. Also make sure the other side of fan switch is connected to good earth. You need to confirm that you have +12V first at two relay terminals.

Martin

AshleyRst

yeah it was conencted to the battery, the ground appears to be going into either the loom or the chassis ?

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Thats right, the live you put to the battery you should have removed from the relay to be able to do so? The terminal opposite should have +12V best to have ignition on at same time in case fans are under igntion control on these. If you don't have meter you can easily tell by connecting the wire you have previously to the battery to this wire. At which point the fan should run. If not this means you don't have power at the relay.

I still think it will be a power problem or wiring problem as the relays and switches are reliable, the relays are prone to sticking sometimes which is easily solved with a slight "Flick" or tap on the casing which frees the contacts but when the happens the contacts usually jam closed hence you have the opposite problem with fan on all the time.

Martin

AshleyRst

the relay they are connected to is under the bonnet though and not in the original place, this is the problem, so as soon as i take away the yellow relay, and once ive connected everything back togther the fan wont run ?

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Yes the relay should be in a fusebox along with the rest, I would imagine it's been rewired but a poor job by the sounds of it. You could try the relay back in the fuse box it should be clear where it has been removed from, obviously tape up wires when you remove so they are safe. Look at the switch to see if the wires have been cut here.

Martin

AshleyRst

right martin after a horrid day of wires and sorting i found the right combination, it now runs but only when the ignition and the car is live, and not via the temp gauge, i belive the fan switch or the thermostat, which ever it should be connected to is broken, ? so these arnt in the circuit at all.

This is how i have connected the relay,

Battery live - ground
Ignition live - Fan Live
Fan Ground - Chassis ground

So now im left with 3 wires, 2 attached to either the fan switch or the thermostat (the one which a coolant pipe enters on the right side of the engine as your looking at it), and a Red and black wire which goes into the loom exact same colour as the fan, big shout out to martin for having patience on this . Ash

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

GROUND this is where you are going wrong this wire needs to connect to the fan switch the other wire from the switch should already be connected to earth, when the switch closes this trips the relay (Switched earth) hence powering on the fans. At the moment you have a permanent ground and so fans will run all the time. If you do as I say with the earth it will work.

Martin

AshleyRst

mmm i tried how you said but it still doesnt kick in, so im guessing i need a new fan switch, i have now left it wired in to a manual switch and for the minute it appears to be working, ive set it up as follows

10 gauge amp power wire from battery, into a 15 amp fuse, then into the relay, so the circuit is well protected to stop a risk of fire.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

So the ground from the relay goes into the fan switch and another wire from the fan switch connects to a good earth? Remember the fans will only cycle when needed which will be in stationary or slow moving traffic when there is insufficient natural air flow. So I would make sure it is actually getting hot enough for this to happen.

Martin

AshleyRst

the temp gauge entered just below red, and i havent driven it yet so its only been sat, which is why im thinking that is knackered

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Is the otherside of the fan switch definetly on a good earth, I.E an non painted surface if so then it will be the fan switch it's just normally these are reliable. Also I guess when you have the fans on drive off the gauge drops down from red?

You need it to be switched rather than permanent though.

Martin

AshleyRst

yeah i have now set it up to be switched, as it was drawing way too much power all the time, yeah its on a good earth, think from looking at it just needs a new fan switch so will get that and then see what happens.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Good stuff, as to the switch check this, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UPRATED-Escort...item3f004e7a15

Martin

AshleyRst

right ordered one of those switches from them, so fingers crossed that it is that.

AshleyRst

that worked just fine , had my mot yesterday and to my surprise it failed only on very minor things, emissions, no real surprise as i only drove 3-4 miles to place, a front anti roll bar bush and a real bearing.

my dilema is i have got the emissions down and changed the bearing, but i have no idea how to fit the new bush to the front anti roll bar, apparently its the front rear bush if that makes sense on the offside. also my speedo does really what it wants, all the other dials work, revs etc, but when im stood still it records im doing 10mph sometimes it goes up and stays up, now the cable is a proper ball ache to get to so is it that that i need to replace ??

AshleyRst

also the interior clock now works, needed a bulb in the boot light, but as soon as i open the boot the clock goes off, and as soon as i shut it it comes back on ?? any ideas obv its a ground problem somewhere but why is it connected to the boot ?

bythomson

dont think your van needs speedo for mot ive motd cars without one,

AshleyRst

van ? no it doesnt, but if im honest i have to drive past a police station and some speed cameras.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

There is no electrical connection between clock and boot light, the boot light switch is simply a earth for the boot light so check this connection along with clock connections.

Most likely is a faulty speedo cable, or the head out of calibration, what wheels do you have?

Martin

AshleyRst

after putting my si clocks in the speedo works, but obviously the revs dont as its a different setup, my main problem now is when im driving its like there is kangroo juice in it, every so often it jumps and splutter as though it isnt getting fuel, got a feeling though its most likely down to the clutch, but as ive never experienced a dead clutch i couldnt tell you.

After putting injector cleaner in im still told my cars emissions are running too high, how can i bring them down ?

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

You really need to take it to someone for a setup, this gives you piece of mind as well.

Emissions problems are normally always down to bad setups, I don't know on FRST but there should be a way of adjusting the CO, something that you can't do without an exhaust gas analyzer, first thing you need to do is find out what chip you have.

A worn clutch will just slip, I.E engine speed will increase but road speed will not, it is especially noticable when going up hills, this doesen't sound like your problem.

Martin

AshleyRst

ok read my other post in the joining and resto bit, turn out my emissions were fine, im fitting a clutch for a piece of mind, and also my car now is running exceptionally high, the fan works and everything, removed the thermostat and that works and im now even running my car with no thermostat but still its running in the red :9 any ideas ?

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

You do need a thermostat, is the car loosing coolant? Have you flushed the system.

Martin

AshleyRst

yeah fully flushed and restocked with coolant, and the rad had a small leak but its now fixed and its still pretty high, maybe its my clocks that are faulty, does any body have any spare ??, also fixed every other electrical problem, turned out to be a fuse and some bad wiring.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

More likely the sender, so long as the fans cycle etc at which point the temp should decrease also, then your ok.

Senders are only cheap so worth a go.

Martin

AshleyRst

ok the fan works and tbh its the turbo that seems to be warming the entire system up, now i have a fiesta si which im prob going to break so how would i go about fitted the radiator off that ??, tbh its a pace alloy rad thats on but yet its still over heating, or would a turbo cooler be better ??