That is the downside to forced induction, the heat produced especially water cooled turbos, it was done to make then warm up quicker, but it makes cooling a nightmare due to the heat absorbed be cooling it, TBH IMO I think turbo coolers are a bit of a gimmick, the same as TT'S are never tried either though.

I don't see what benefit you would have by swapping the rads over unless your one is sludged up or needs recoreing etc albeit it is a nice Pro alloy one.

Martin

 

ok im looking at getting rid of my pace intercooler and replacing it with this one for the time been http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UNIVERSAL-TURBO-INTERCOOLER-FORD-RS-TURBO-ESCORT-FIESTA-/380245541305?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles _CarParts_SM&hash=item58886681b9,

 

well after driving tonight and not doing silly driving the car temps seemed to be mid-hig, so may just heat wrap the charge carrier and alloy boost pipe to try and bring temps down, my car also runs really bad when warm which leads me to suspect its running lean, so may get a super chip for it, how do i find out what ecu i have, sorry im new to this part of moodding.

 

The standard ECU is Ford EEC, which you almost defo will still have. I don't know about Superchips but one thing I know of them is to keep clear of the modules that plug into the ECU port as they do more harm than good.

I would look at a reputable company for a chip it's always best if you don't know what chip you have and you cannot be identified by visually looking at it, to get one you know to be good from the likes of MSD etc.

You really need to be careful if you suspect it is running lean as you can easy end up with a melt down, I would take to someone for a setup they will detect any problems and you have piece of mind for the cost it is very cheap considering.

Martin

 

yeah ive been told that it would be best if i get the chip first as it alters the fueling, after close inspection i have a hole in a water pipe leading to air getting in the system

 

will the si radiator fit no problems or will i have to do some modifications ??

 

ok the problem is the car is still running extremely hot, so will possibly remove the water feed to the turbo, is this advisable ??

 

I'd like to know if this is possible/sensible too.

I'm going to use liquid to air intercooler (charge cooler) so I might plumb turbo into the rad for that to keep engine temps more steady...

 

you have some good friends!!!

 

It's one of those questions which will get a lot of opinions, I personally keep the water feed as I believe it prolongs the life of the turbo as less prone to oil "Coking" some remove, some turbos are purely oil-cooled such as the S1 ERST, the fact is it should not overheat either way but it would obviously reduce your temp alot.

Martin

 

ok ive ordered a airtech turbo cooler so will happily guinea pig it for everyone, at Ł72 it was worth a shot before swapping intercoolers, Rads Etc Etc, after finding and curing a water leak it has seemed to bring the temps down a touch but i belive its running a non standard t2, and different injecotrs so clearly this is not helping my overheating problem at all, as for the Si Radiator fitment you need a front mount intercooler due to the size, i know cause im breaking my old Si and tried it but have been told by a few friends it will be the route to go next if this new bit of kit doesnt work, will update with pics and progress. and as always cheers marty.

 

Yes you most likely have a T3 from a ERST or the likes, the reason for the T2 was due to the lack of space in the engine bay, although with a few mods the T3 can be fitted I think it involves moving the radiator forward an inch etc.

Would be interested on the results of the cooler though

Martin

 

ok after bumping into another Rs fiesta owner last night i found a couple of issues with mine, the map sensor was not connected to the turbo and actuator, i have an upgraded actuator on a T2 and full pace alloy rad and intercooler, parts arrived today but had no time to fit due to the wank weather, according to the book at idle it will bring the temp down by over 25 c so will be intresting, though the size on the website is very misleading, the main problem thats getting on my tits is that once the fan kicks in the car seems to occasionally do a buckaroo type motion at low revs but is fine higher up the range, now i checked and the injectors are dark blue so standard for the car, only thing is the fuel pump which is uprated, i sorted the map sensor out with some silicone hosing and it seemed to cure it a little bit but its really wierd how it only does it wi the fan on, maybe my battery isnt big enough or something ?? any ideas ??

 

The MAP sensor does not connect to the turbo, as it measures MANIFOLD absolute pressure. The pipes coming from the turbo should go to the two port valve.

The running issue with fans on is because of the power they draw, the alternator therefore needs more engine power as it has a higher load, normally the ISCV ups the idle slightly in one such situation, make sure all the ignition wiring is ok and the battery earths etc are clean.

Martin

 

thats what i ment my bad, well the instructions was totally crap for the turbo cooler, the point where you cant fit it unless you have a front mount intercooler is rubbish, it lowered the temps significantly i would say atleast 20 c more if you have the heaters on, but then dilema struck i have a tiny hole in my turbo water inlet pipe which i know have to have braized will upload pics of it tomoz as for the fan issues i have put a bigger battery on, but as my car now thinks its a fountain, i cannot drive to test until its fixed at the weekend will keep you guys updated.

 

ok, so a few major problems occured over the past few days, the water decided it water to turn the turbo into a fountain so have had to get the water feed pipe for the turbo brazed, and to check this jumping out at low revs ive booked it in for a remap session, now is it worth getting a bleed valve put on and set up or should i just have it mapped without ?? seen them on ebay for like a tenner.

 

No need, the standard boost control is more than up to the job (Two port valve in your case) unless it's been changed and ECU still retains control over boost. I think that is wise as they will check the car over and make sure it's ok, you then have piece of mind as well.

It may not necessarily need a remap but this will become apparent when they check it over, for the missing it could be something as simple as plugs or leads.

Martin

 

well ive ordered some motorsport developement HT leads, check the plugs they are the iridiums and are in good full working order, so will change the leads then get it remapped with them on it, seriously running out of ideas with this car now so i hope so much that this cures it, will upload piccys of the turbo cooler later as got some more fettling to do

 

Well its a much needed update i think, my car has been over heating for some time, as when the turbo kicks in it seems to knock my water temps through the roof, after much debates on whether or not i should disconnect the water cooling and just have it warmed up and cooled down properly by the oil, i came across a turbo cooler in one of my mags, thinking it was probably a gimmick or some otther nonsense i dismissed the idea and came about trying to find my problem. At the north meet i was giving some pure DV action when i realised under revs one of the pipes was leaking fluid, so popped a call into ford the next day and ordered the top pipe for the radiator, what they actually gave me was a Mk3 1.1 top hose which of course had no inlet for the turbo, so again i had to wait for ford to correct there problem, The pipe then came and was fitted without problems, and i refitted my thermostat which i had taken out, the car was running ok, but seems to do a buckaroo when the fan kicks in and the Temps are warm, i then found Another FrsT owner in same colour and when we was having a chat, we both popped bonnets to check the specs etc, i then realised mine was missing a vital pipe connectin the turbo to the Amal Valve, which mesures intake and boot pressure and sets fueling to sort, basically mine was fueling the hot air from the temp, the temps then calmed down a touch, so decided on some heat wrap again, brought them down a touch, then more reading into this turbo cooler i found that it takes the turbo out of the Radiator Cycle all together so will obviously bring temps down, and will also allow the car to hold more water, that combined with leaving the fans on warm seems to have sorted it, So now its just got some new Motorsport Ht leads on the way, as well as the proper Rs dials as mine at the moment is using my Si dials :lolz:, i will get a dyno print out next week as im taking it to Collins Performance Centre in chesterfield, so will get a before and After. As for anybody wanting one you can clearly see i have got it fitted without the front mount intercooler which AS tell you, you need.