piggyback, no hazards
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From: yelverton, devon
i've given up on trying to find the fault with my rear lamp, theres no power going to it only a negative, the wires also runs to the RH headlamp (which works fine)
the cars a mk1 xr4i, on the diagram the power comes from light switch, into buld controll box thingy?? splits to front and rear lamps through a 10 amp fuse, at first the the fuse kept blowing but after striping wiring, cleaning terminals and checking earths it doesn't do it anymore, just puts no power to rear lamp, if i power cable the rear lamp works fine.
so what im asking is would it be ok to piggy back from left lamp?
i need to get the car mot'd soon and don't have the time to find the fault anymore nore the patience
next quick one is the hazards lights don't work, the indicators are fine but when you but the hazard switch on the replay just gives out a constant buzzing noise with no lights? faulty switch? bad earth on switch?
thanks
josh
_________________
the cars a mk1 xr4i, on the diagram the power comes from light switch, into buld controll box thingy?? splits to front and rear lamps through a 10 amp fuse, at first the the fuse kept blowing but after striping wiring, cleaning terminals and checking earths it doesn't do it anymore, just puts no power to rear lamp, if i power cable the rear lamp works fine.
so what im asking is would it be ok to piggy back from left lamp?
i need to get the car mot'd soon and don't have the time to find the fault anymore nore the patience
next quick one is the hazards lights don't work, the indicators are fine but when you but the hazard switch on the replay just gives out a constant buzzing noise with no lights? faulty switch? bad earth on switch?
thanks
josh
_________________
I would not piggyback wiring as you risk overloading the circuit that provides the left hand wiring. If you have no live at back right hand side lamp you need to trace wiring back. I would think the wire has broken from control box to light, do a continuity check with light switch ON to earth this would show you whether it is broken or not.
As for hazards sounds like relay has broken, this uses a separate relay to the indicators, sometimes tapping the relay can free the contacts.
Martin
As for hazards sounds like relay has broken, this uses a separate relay to the indicators, sometimes tapping the relay can free the contacts.
Martin
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From: yelverton, devon
I would not piggyback wiring as you risk overloading the circuit that provides the left hand wiring. If you have no live at back right hand side lamp you need to trace wiring back. I would think the wire has broken from control box to light, do a continuity check with light switch ON to earth this would show you whether it is broken or not.
As for hazards sounds like relay has broken, this uses a separate relay to the indicators, sometimes tapping the relay can free the contacts.
Martin
As for hazards sounds like relay has broken, this uses a separate relay to the indicators, sometimes tapping the relay can free the contacts.
Martin
relay is new, did it before replacing and still doing it now
thanks
If it's just the tail/brake light will be perfectly fine to jump, on my xr4i and my dads current xr4i I linked the rear fogs to the brake lights so as to have 4 brake lights cheap(20P) and easy to do.
The noise you hear is bcause the hazzard switch has not gone full travel, very classic problem when not used year to year, they jam, take apart CAREFULLY, and you can see all the pin connections that get bridged by the movement of the switch, clean the crap out, which is old stiff grease, clean up then put a little beeswax of if none use a furniture polish that contains it spray liberally over the surface which the switch bit slides, will be good as new again.
tabetha
The noise you hear is bcause the hazzard switch has not gone full travel, very classic problem when not used year to year, they jam, take apart CAREFULLY, and you can see all the pin connections that get bridged by the movement of the switch, clean the crap out, which is old stiff grease, clean up then put a little beeswax of if none use a furniture polish that contains it spray liberally over the surface which the switch bit slides, will be good as new again.
tabetha
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From: yelverton, devon
If it's just the tail/brake light will be perfectly fine to jump, on my xr4i and my dads current xr4i I linked the rear fogs to the brake lights so as to have 4 brake lights cheap(20P) and easy to do.
The noise you hear is bcause the hazzard switch has not gone full travel, very classic problem when not used year to year, they jam, take apart CAREFULLY, and you can see all the pin connections that get bridged by the movement of the switch, clean the crap out, which is old stiff grease, clean up then put a little beeswax of if none use a furniture polish that contains it spray liberally over the surface which the switch bit slides, will be good as new again.
tabetha
The noise you hear is bcause the hazzard switch has not gone full travel, very classic problem when not used year to year, they jam, take apart CAREFULLY, and you can see all the pin connections that get bridged by the movement of the switch, clean the crap out, which is old stiff grease, clean up then put a little beeswax of if none use a furniture polish that contains it spray liberally over the surface which the switch bit slides, will be good as new again.
tabetha
i've replaced the reply with new mate, so don't think that's the problem?
thanks
josh
Check if you have a live at the supply to the unit, if so then it won't be a power problem rather an earth problem which is more likely on these, if not the earth then the bulb holder itself which may have corrosion.
Martin
Martin
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From: yelverton, devon
the indicators work fine just the hazard that goes nuts? could it be a earth problem??
or faulty switch?
thanks mate
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Oh forgot about that, you have good earth no power so it's looking like a faulty control box. The hazard warning problem someone posted above saying to be a "Sticky" switch which needs cleaning.
Martin
Martin
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From: yelverton, devon
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