peanut_coz

Right, the time has come for me to rebuild the engine in my sapphire 2WD. Looking for a good reliable usable 350BHP. Not a genius with engine specs etc, but was thinking of this as the spec :-

205 block original currently on 90.25 bore
2WD head currently at 138.5mm

Head - Thinking ported polished new valves new guides double valve springs BD14 or 16 cams WRC multi layer headgasket

Block rehoned and cleaned low comp mahle pistons stronger conrods new bearings and shells ARP long studs

Turbo -T34 or T4 (or would i be better with uprated T3 ?)
Standard loom and L6 Ecu

This was my thinking for the rebuild but my questions are

1 Does this spec sound about right?
2 Is it overkill for 350 BHP
3 What changes would you make to the spec?

Thanks for your help in advance Guys

tabetha

Rubbish spec for the power.
A cossie with std head/cams/pistons/rods will easily make/take this power, with a T34.48, running around 24psi, all day long, don't need double springs with std cams.
I would use a YB 0611 HG, will handle this easy, block will need boring not honing but machine shop will do this for you, hopefully with a deck plate attached, as plastiscine is more riggid than a pinto block!!
Will be a waste of money for porting etc, head will likely need a rebuild if much over 40,000 anyway, and not always cheap.
The standard compression is fine, nowhere needing to be lowered with consequent loss of low down power, off boost power, same with the cams, the exhaust one is certainly ok, the inlet can be changed to BD15, this will give a more agressive punch as it hits the boost proper, but will likely lose out to a std cam before this.
A T34.48 will do this power all day long, you could go .55 or .63 but this will just make it lag city, the reason why at the same power they feel more punchy is they have more low down loss to make up for over the .48 which spools that much quicker, depends what you want.
Heads have been used much less than that, can't long stud 205 block, and not needed, I would use ARP personally, if fitted correctly they will not cause block cracking/lifting, but do need measuring, but could also use the std ford stretchy bolts.
Use Cometic inlet gaskets as re-useable so save again and again on money.
Forget T4, as pretty useless as everyday car, unless you like TYPE R's and constant gear changes due to no bottom end!!
L6 mapped will do the job no problem, not everyones choice, but if stopping at a certain point with mods would be cheapest, do all mods get it mapped once and leave it, if you intend further on more mods, you may want to carefully look at costs of keeping the L6 versus a aftermarket ecu, a bit more freindly to the home/end user as regards mods.
tabetha

saph4be

sound advice as usual from tabs as all ways but i would stick to standard head bolts unless you really are confident at fitting the ARP kit as these can cause propblems if not correctly fitted

peanut_coz

Thanks for the reply. I am not a mechanic myself just what ive heard and people have told me bout different parts, thats why i thought i would post and ask people in the know.

So basically a standard rebuild with an uprated headgasket and t34 will be more than capable of handling this power?

What about injectors? are greens more than capable of this job or is there a better suited injector ?

Thanks again in advance

tabetha

Yep std rebuild with GREYS, or blues(4wd cossie), some greens may be happy but will be worked hard, greys won't be troubled at all, and can still get ace emissions on a decently mapped ecu, mine is 0.97% CO idle and 100% perfect, note this is on greys, with almost idetical spec to yours, I can get 40mpg on a run, average around 27/ish, that's with 180,000+ on the bottom end, done top end/turbo.
tabetha

peanut_coz

Ok thats great thanks. Wallet not gonna take as much of a kicking as I thought it would which is always a bonus. Time to get the stuff sent to the engine builders then. Anyone you can recommend for the mapping ? Would you get the fuel wiring redone aswell before it goes for a map ? Thanks again really appreciate it

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

Easy answer - Karl Norris (NMS) in Alfreton


Yes

Yura

tabetha, by your opinion the YB 0611 HG is better then ST YB 1261 HG? why?
thanks!