cosworth YP, top end rattle!
06-01-2010, 07:46 PM
#1
cosworth YP, top end rattle!
its once you give it a little rev it rattle's, or when its under presure.. its sounds like its coming from the head! il get a video of the rattle, i wasnt going to ask but my brother says he's thinking of selling it now because of it
cheers andrew
cheers andrew
Last edited by andy130; 06-01-2010 at 07:49 PM.
07-01-2010, 11:22 AM
#4
Originally Posted by andy130
Probably just be tappets, at the worst little ends perhaps? Tell your brother to get it sorted if it's that annoying and to stop being a pansy just because a 20 year old engine's making a bit of noise.
07-01-2010, 01:03 PM
#6
As said the lifters have got gummed up or need replacing, try an oil change first though as this may be all it needs and you can even try some Wynns hydralic lifter lubricant failing that a new set will be needed make sure they are INA.
Martin
Martin
07-01-2010, 01:26 PM
#7
Monte 087
As said could be the lifters, might also be worth checking the cam caps are torqued correctly have seen alot of loose ones in the past and the studs for them can pull out of the head if they have been over tightened, this can also lead to a snapped cam if it gets too bad.
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07-01-2010, 04:27 PM
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As said could be the lifters, might also be worth checking the cam caps are torqued correctly have seen alot of loose ones in the past and the studs for them can pull out of the head if they have been over tightened, this can also lead to a snapped cam if it gets too bad.
i had 3 loose ones in my head, tho the nuts and washers wern't floating round in the head thank god!
didn't no that if u over tighten them it can pull the studs out,they say u learn something new everyday lol
07-01-2010, 04:30 PM
#11
right we changed the oil an filter just used 5/30 to see if any different but still making tapping noise, so were gona take of rocker cover to see, are the lifters easy to take out? cheers andy
who sells theses lifters guys?
who sells theses lifters guys?
07-01-2010, 04:42 PM
#12
be aware tho because the sound may sound like its comin from the head but could be travelling up through the engine its poss bottom end too, get a wooden broom handle an chop bout 6ins off an use it as a stethascope and listin round the engine to see where its comin from and hear the sound clearer
07-01-2010, 04:45 PM
#13
They're relatively easy to take out - but you need to remove the camshafts to get to them.
Then putting it back together you'll need a cambelt and maybe a tensioner too as you'll not want to re-use them...
08-01-2010, 08:09 PM
#15
20K+ Super Poster.
Lifters can have a midn of thier own.
INA are nothing special quality wise, they just happened to be original fit, so obviously gave the best deal for ford as so they were chosen as the supplier.
DON'T use 5W30, it is way too thin, a 10W50 wil make no difference over a 5W50, as it is only the cold viscosity that is chaged to slightly thinner when cold.
It could be a set of knackered lifters, just use a long THIN screwdriver as a stethoscope, works vastly better than wood.
I always flush before every oil change, the problem is the crap in the oil will collect in the oil galleries that run each side of the head, it collects at the rear, so these tend to suffer more problems.
Wynns hydraulic valve lifter lube can work wonders, however if the problem is one of scored surfaces where the ball valve seats it will not cure it.
As said though it's not a bad job to do, but DON'T be tempted to give the cam caps/studs one more tweak, they don't need it and do pull the threads very easily, never do at the recommended torque though.
Just don't use the std cam seals, use VITON upon renewal.
tabetha
INA are nothing special quality wise, they just happened to be original fit, so obviously gave the best deal for ford as so they were chosen as the supplier.
DON'T use 5W30, it is way too thin, a 10W50 wil make no difference over a 5W50, as it is only the cold viscosity that is chaged to slightly thinner when cold.
It could be a set of knackered lifters, just use a long THIN screwdriver as a stethoscope, works vastly better than wood.
I always flush before every oil change, the problem is the crap in the oil will collect in the oil galleries that run each side of the head, it collects at the rear, so these tend to suffer more problems.
Wynns hydraulic valve lifter lube can work wonders, however if the problem is one of scored surfaces where the ball valve seats it will not cure it.
As said though it's not a bad job to do, but DON'T be tempted to give the cam caps/studs one more tweak, they don't need it and do pull the threads very easily, never do at the recommended torque though.
Just don't use the std cam seals, use VITON upon renewal.
tabetha
08-01-2010, 09:17 PM
#16
be aware tho because the sound may sound like its comin from the head but could be travelling up through the engine its poss bottom end too, get a wooden broom handle an chop bout 6ins off an use it as a stethascope and listin round the engine to see where its comin from and hear the sound clearer
Lifters can have a midn of thier own.
INA are nothing special quality wise, they just happened to be original fit, so obviously gave the best deal for ford as so they were chosen as the supplier.
DON'T use 5W30, it is way too thin, a 10W50 wil make no difference over a 5W50, as it is only the cold viscosity that is chaged to slightly thinner when cold.
It could be a set of knackered lifters, just use a long THIN screwdriver as a stethoscope, works vastly better than wood.
I always flush before every oil change, the problem is the crap in the oil will collect in the oil galleries that run each side of the head, it collects at the rear, so these tend to suffer more problems.
Wynns hydraulic valve lifter lube can work wonders, however if the problem is one of scored surfaces where the ball valve seats it will not cure it.
As said though it's not a bad job to do, but DON'T be tempted to give the cam caps/studs one more tweak, they don't need it and do pull the threads very easily, never do at the recommended torque though.
Just don't use the std cam seals, use VITON upon renewal.
tabetha
INA are nothing special quality wise, they just happened to be original fit, so obviously gave the best deal for ford as so they were chosen as the supplier.
DON'T use 5W30, it is way too thin, a 10W50 wil make no difference over a 5W50, as it is only the cold viscosity that is chaged to slightly thinner when cold.
It could be a set of knackered lifters, just use a long THIN screwdriver as a stethoscope, works vastly better than wood.
I always flush before every oil change, the problem is the crap in the oil will collect in the oil galleries that run each side of the head, it collects at the rear, so these tend to suffer more problems.
Wynns hydraulic valve lifter lube can work wonders, however if the problem is one of scored surfaces where the ball valve seats it will not cure it.
As said though it's not a bad job to do, but DON'T be tempted to give the cam caps/studs one more tweak, they don't need it and do pull the threads very easily, never do at the recommended torque though.
Just don't use the std cam seals, use VITON upon renewal.
tabetha
09-01-2010, 06:08 PM
#19
20K+ Super Poster.
I get mine from a seal supplier, but they have to be ordered in as not a stock item, they stock loads but can't stock all.
If you want some just pm me, they are around £9 each, plus say £1 carriage, take a few days to get in though.
There is a new cossie, and racing parts supplier that is stocking these though, as well as the tyre pressure monitors, cheaper than anyone else, plus all goodridge hoses and fittings, I know they recently had the $5000 order received.
tabetha
If you want some just pm me, they are around £9 each, plus say £1 carriage, take a few days to get in though.
There is a new cossie, and racing parts supplier that is stocking these though, as well as the tyre pressure monitors, cheaper than anyone else, plus all goodridge hoses and fittings, I know they recently had the $5000 order received.
tabetha
11-01-2010, 03:54 PM
#22
20K+ Super Poster.
I was there today, but have to go to Blackpool again in a few weeks so will get some details sorted.
They also now sell the tyre pressure/temperature monitors for £160, same ones as R&B sell.
tabetha
Last edited by tabetha; 11-01-2010 at 03:56 PM.
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