Right basically its been doing it a while and want to try and sort it before it gets set up or i'll have to get them to sort it.

Basically when u pull away if u dont give it more revs than u normally would the revs drop and it tries to stall (thought it might be the paddle clutch with standard cover plate but....) when u change gear then touch the throttle it holds back and hesitates, does this till u put more pressure down then it pulls fine and drives ok etc even on boost.

I thought it might have been a couple of the leads being loose but sorted those, phase sensor seems ok and i gapped the crank sensor when i fitted the replacement pulley, plugs were new 500miles ago also. Could the tps cause it?! know it has a slight adjustment to it if u slack off the screws.

Was great fun trying to nurse it home in the snow last night holding back on the revs but trying my hardest not to stall it

Cheers

 

bttt

 

Could well be the tps, they tend to suffer a bad spot just off idle, right where you need it for trickling through traffic, you could turn the sensor so it is "higher" at rest than this point, but it will overfuel slightly all the time then, ideally of course you need a new tps.
They are 0.55 Kohm, so you will not have a problem finding a "universal" sensor of this value as most are around then 0.50 Kohm mark, the shaft is the regular 8mm "D" shaped connector commonly used.
You will get a new connector to use on the loom, as the universal type ones are generally a round 3 pin afair, so a bit of easy wiring is needed, pm if unsure of connection details.
This is what I put on mine Ł20 brand new when I took the duff one of I simply drilled and tapped the two areas marked on the flange under the old sensor with a small circle as they were bang on where I needed to drill and tap for screws to secure the new sensor, this also ensures a excellent supply of easy to get inexpensive tps's in the future.
I can't of course gaurantee it is the problem, might be better to get it to set up place so they can see CO etc esp at around idle, might just be slightly lean, need the fp upping slightly etc.
tabetha

 

Yeah im with Tabetha on that one bud does sound like the TPS has or is about to bite the dust . poss worth adjusting it to satisfy that it is the problem then change

 

Can they be adjusted/removed in situ or will i have to take the throttle body off?! seems a bit off a bitch to get to the securing screws!! If i adjust it like u said to see which way do i need to turn it slightly clockwise or anti?! or is there only 1 way it'll turn?!

I have got another one at my mums so gonna try get there if the snows cleared a bit and try another one!!
If not then i'll drop u a PM about fitting a new one tabs, pics would be handy if poss!!

The fp is sitting at about 45psi at idle as ive got a gauge in the car but obviously as say may need adjusting slightly, can being slightly lean cause that to happen too?!
The only other thing i need to do is rewire the pump as its only seeing 11V at idle so thats top of the list to fix before it gets set up!

 

A leaness can cause a hesitation, but would be noticebale as being a lazy feeling engine, oddly enough the uk like things rich for power, but the yanks have a saying lean is mean, they do the opposite!
The screws are a sod to get to whilst on the car, esp as they are usulaluy silly tight, but easy to take of the tb, loosen the screws, adn turn it in the opposite direction of travel, ie so it has more pre load resistance.
Get that pump rewired, as it will alter the fuelling as you drive, when under load if the current and voltage decrease this will slow the pump.
tabetha
pm sent

 

well after a bit of a struggle managed to loosen the screws without taking the TB off, ive put more preload on (turned it anti clockwise) so now just have to take it for a drive once the ice clears abit!!! Did stall a couple times when i tried to move it forward on the drive but assuming adding more preload shouldnt do that?! So will put it down to it being cold and it not being started for a week!!

Have also got a spare one i had at my parents i can try/use, is there a way of actually setting up the preload properly or is that something thats only done when on the rollers/road tune?!

Obviously if i had an aftermarket ecu i know that would tell me all i need to know but be a while before i can afford 1 of them lol

 

All you do to set them in theory is fit the sensor on the shaft, but not screwed down, and a few mm off from being fully pressed on the shaft, rotate it that way it will let you, let it snapo back again, screw down in that position job done, this is ok 99% of the time.
You can check the output but even when as it should be some can still respond from a slight tweak either way, just have a fiddle.
tabetha