hi i am fitting the 2.0ltr siver top cams and pullys 2 my 1.8 gti and i was wondering if ne 1 has done it and if they upgraded the valve springs and did ya put a 2.0 ecu in or did ya re-map the 1.8 ecu....

 

alright mate i've done this to my GTi its well worth the effort, as for valve springs i wouldn't know??? i have changed the cams, MAF sensor (although they look identicle) and ECU, which is the main thing! without it it runs like a bag of s**t!!! its not as simple as unplugging one and plugging in the other though. there is a guide for it which is simple and easy to follow and most of all works! i've done it to my 1.8si and my GTi so defo works if you want it i'll dig it out and email it to ya, a word of advice though get a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold and the rest as it really does bring the engine to life, mine has done 120,000 miles and on the rollers the tech said it pulls all the way round the rev meter, hope this helps

 

here ya go mate found it pretty quickly, this is exactly how i got it literally follow this guide once you pull the red insert inside the plug the pin numbers are stamped next to each other, and a tip, mark up the wires you move with the old positions lol hope this gets ya somewhere




havent done a diagram but wat i will tell you its trickin easier to use an fiesta si loom

but for mk1 mondeo none pats to an escort loom can be done
Right then, these are the wires which need to be moved:

Injector wires
pin no 12
pin no 15
pin no 42
pin no 54

Fuel pump wire
pin no 53

Octane adjust wire
pin no 29

aircon wire (needs doing even if you do not have aircon)
pin no 35

starter inhibit relay earth wire
pin no 32

pats wires,
pin no 39
pin no 22 (you may not have this wire!)

The end of the ecu multiplug has a large red plastic centre. Remove it carefully using a small pick or screwdriver. You will then be able to see a small plastic clip holding in each wire. Use the small pick to bend these clips back so you can pull the wire out from the back.

Remove the pats wires from 39 and 22 (if applicable). Tape these up securely and then tape them to the loom, out of the way. Their metal contacts must not touch each other.

Remove the air con wire (35) and tape it out the way as a temporary measure.

Remove the fuel pump wire (53) and re-fit in hole 22.

Now the injectors:

Inj. 1 - hole 15, remove and refit to hole 51
Inj. 2 - hole 12, remove and refit to hole 52
Inj. 3 - hole 54, remove and refit to hole 39
Inj. 4 - hole 42, remove and refit to hole 35

Remove the octane adjust wire (29) and refit to hole 42.

Remove the starter inhibit relay earth (32) and this needs to be connected to a new suitable earth. Look inside the A-pillar and you should find one easily enough. If you don't do this, the starter will not work!

Untape your aircon wire which you have already removed and re-fit to hole 54.

Re-fit the red plastic insert into the end of the ecu multiplug and bolt the plug back onto the ecu. I suggest you have the ecu already sitting in its shield before you re-fit the multiplug.

Lower the outer shield over the top of the ecu being careful not to trap any wires. Slide the shield up and it will lock in position. Check none of your wires are trapped or excessively tight. Unwrap more tape and try to seperate the wires slightly to give them some more play.

Reconnect the battery, cross your fingers, and try and start the car. If it does, good job!!

 

cheers m8 that helps alot, u said bout the fiesta si wire loom can i not just keep the gti loom saves alot of pissing about..

 

yeah you use the loom already there, that bit about the fiesta si loom was part of the guide, i dont know myself what that means, so follow that and you'll be sorted

 

cheers, did u simple just match up the codes on the ecu's from a 2.0l mk1-mk2 mondeo as i have bin told by 1 bloke 2 get 1 with the starting with the letter D... ps can ya member what ya car was pushing out on the rolling road..

 

as long as the ECU is from a silver top zetec i think you should be fine as i didnt match anything when i got my one. my car got exactly 129.1bhp with a lambder sensor that doesnt work and a IAT (intake air temperature) sensor that doesn't work, remember thats with a 4-2-1 straight through exhaust though

 

that aint bad m8 cheers 4 ya help...