alright guys i took my car stereo out yeaterday that included a sub and amp so i pulled the cables out, and now my car wont start and isnt getting fuel to the engine were do the cables run for the pump as i want to check them to see if i have pulled one out or off by mistake

 

The fuel pump supply wire runs down the offside of the car along the sill inside the car, under the trim bits by seals, along with the lights wires, then at back of car they dive down and then go forwards towards the pump and float assembly(tank) until they split into each bit ie tank and pump.
I would first check the fuel cut off, under the spare wheel, if the white button has popped up it has tripped out, so just press to reset.
tabetha

 

cheers mate rite i have been working on it all night and still no luck the cut of button in the boot has been removed already so its just the two wires conected together i cut them back for a fresh join. still nothing. i checked all the fuses no luck still not working. is there a way i can check to see if the pump is coming on or not? and does the power wire for the pump go from the pump straight to the batterie so if its not get power i can run a new cable down to it? does the pump earth its self out or does it have its own earth that i can check?
cheers

 

Put a test light on to the power wire at the pump and watch it as you get somebody to turn on the ignition for you, because as soon as the ignition is switched on you only have 3-4 secs to see the tester light up as this is all the time the power will be there if the pump doesn't kick in.
If you get power in the first 4 secs it is a pump problem.
If no power you have a broken wire some where in the loom.
Follow the wire back to the dash and test for power there, if you have power then it is broken wire further back.
Had this problem a few weeks back myself but it was the replacement pump i bought which was faulty.

 

The 3-4 second prime will only be there first thing, as it is time and temp related.
The fuel pump supply comes from a relay at the rear of the glovebox around a metal bracket, unless yours has been rewired differently, this relay is energised by the ecu when running, but also first turn in the morning for 3-4 seconds, so just do as said some basic power checks, if you don't have it rewired, now would be a good time to do it.
tabetha

 

thanks for the reply guys, so is there only power to the pump for a few seconds. and when you say re wire you mean re wire the pump completly on a seperate loom and would this need to be run through a relay

 

alright guys been messing about with the car and still no luck i conected the pump to a direct mains and it works fine the pump that is but it still does not start. i took a plug out and its not sparking you got any ideas help needed please

 

im lost i tried everything i can think off no spark any ideas

 

I would check your ecu power supply, as this wil knock out both your sparks and fuel if it is missing, I think it is fed from a relay at the rear of the glovebox on the metal bracket on 2wd or near the ecu on 4wd, these also have fuses on them.
The purple relay has a 30 amp fuse, and the green relay holder has a 20 amp fuse, there are two others there as well, there may well be a not used relay holdertaped to the loom nearby, just ignore this as it is used for air con.
tabetha

 

cheers mate will have a look i am sure i checked these and the fuses were fine im thinking of taking it to fords to get them to have a look see if they can plug it in to fine out whats wrong with it

 

Don't waste your money thinking a "plug in" will tell you anything it won't, this is basic fault finding, just get a haynes manual for high level sierra, ghia etc and follow along route.
The first place to look is at the connector that joins the ecu to the car loom and from where it gets it's power/sends power out to fuel pump etc.
At the rear of the dash above glovebox just under the screen area(inside car) is a connector quite well hidden, with 6 wires in it.
thin green = tacho, red/blue = permanent live, black = switched live(from ignition switch), black/red = fuel pump live output(putting a live directlty to this will work the pump), brown/white = temp gauge, brown/red = air con(if fitted)
tabetha

 

ok cheers mate i will have a good look in the morning
also i put a multimeter on the coil pack and it is not getting a very good reading what should this be giving

 

You will get full positive(12v), but the negative which is trhe trigger is so brief you won't capture it on a multimetre, as it is typically 0.3 milliseconds!!
tabetha

 

so you recon i should test the relay near the ecu to see if that has power going to it

 

I would do yes, start at all the basic stuff as it only takes a few minutes longer, by prodding a live wire down the connector(car side), that joins ecu loom to car loom you will instantly see if the pump is running so you know the circuit is ok, after checking the relay output and fuse on the relay.
tabetha