dhutch

Hi, New to this but i have a poorly CVH.

I have a feeling the timing belt or distubuter has sliped a little, as it has suddenly stopped running.
- Its not a fueling issue as far as i know, and the spark is good on all four.
- I have the Haynes Ford CVH book from a freind, and am trying to use that.

Fortunatly the engine has a fair bit of space round it, so i have removed the alternator pulley and can line up the crankshaft pulley/keyway to be at TDC (cylinder one?). However it doesnt have the stock camshaft (top) pulley and i so i dont know where that should be, to check if the timing belt has slipped. (it doesnt show any signs of wear, but is looser than i would expect).

Secondly im stuggling to follow detangle the instuctions on fitting (checking) the distributor and rotor possition. Which i beleive is another thing that could have sliped. The engine will just about fire, but wont really keep runing, no power, etc. So sounds to me just like timing has slipped?
- Presumably it should very crudely line up with cylinder one? When at 'TDC'.

This is a photo of the Timing belt and top pulley.


And the dissy rotor.



Daniel

JesseT

Can't fully answer your question, but:
1.
Positioning the bottom pulley keyway up is not the correct procedure. I'm not saying that it's definately wrong. Normally the TDC mark is on the alternator pulley that should be aligned to the mark on the belt casing.
2.
The cam pulley keyway should point directly down when #1 is at TDC. The standard pulley has an arrow up at that point.

clarke5700

on the alternator pully???????????????????????? er no mate the timing mark is on the bottom pully.

take the top pully off and when the ket is facing up the is right for tdc

clarke5700

also if you look on the oil pump you can see a line this will aline with a notch on the bottom pully when at tdc

JesseT

I mean the V-groove pulley that drives the alternator, whatever it's called, not the timing belt pulley.

dhutch

Yeah, according the haynes its the notch on the bottom pulley which alines with the line on the oil pump. This according to haynes also usually coinsides with the keyway on the crankshaft as it does in mine.
- However, looking at it again (when its light outside) Jesse isnt wrong either, theres a nick and a spot of yellow paint on the alternator pulley, which does indeed line up with a mark on the lower belt cover. And the keyway which the alt pulley also keys onto.

I will slide the top pulley forwards a bit and look for the keyway if that is ment to also be pointing up at the same time. Sounds just like the peice on info i needed on that.



Daniel

dhutch

Ive been having another look at it just now. There is a small allowence on the play in the rotor arm though small.
- If i advance it all they way i get nothing (degree or two). If i retard it all the way the play will allow, and move the cap through its max allowence too, it will just about run (degree or so the other way).

While running its also spitting a lot of fuel out of the carbs (pumping acclerator jets a fair bit hence a lot of fuel) hence thinking the timing might be out, but it seams not to be the cam timing thats out as have checked as above.

Also got a small flame just this last time, so deffo timing on somthing is out i feel.


Daniel

JesseT

Lookin at the distributor it's a magnetic reluctance trigger most probably. Open the distibutor cap, pull the rotor arm and dust cap under it, and check at what crank timing (degrees BTDC) the points will align. Should be around 10deg. Easier to use a timing lamp if you have one.

dhutch

Sorry ive been out of the loop for a few days and unable to get on the internet or look at the car.
- Its now hammering it down, but ive been crawling around the trailer (cars in trailer) havin a look at what we have.

These are some photo of the dissy.








Apprently according to the bloke i bought the car of it could be the black box on the underside of the dissy, which i have a spare of (although looking at said spare, it doesnt seem quite the same, but mght fit if only picking up one of the two holes)

I guess i could do worse than try and swap it and see how that goes. Failing that i new dissy cant be that much can it? Might go witha megajolt given time, but for now it would just be really nice to get it on the road again.

Doing a bit of digging i seem to have a Bosch distributor (redtop),and that earlier ones where Lucus (blacktop) and thats what the spare amplifier i have is off. And that there not really interchagable (whole unit or otherwise) however i guess you know far more than i do at this stage. And that the Bosch is the better one to have. And that is proberbly could well be a fault with the Amplifier on the side of the dissy.

Cheers, Daniel.

dhutch

No? Anyone?

I had the dissy/amp off and cleaned them up and put it back and it actually ran for a while ok (i would even have tried driving it if it wasnt parked in at the time) but shortly after was back as it was, basically a non-runner.

The whole dissy frankly looks a bit of a mess, so im going to get a new one (bosch) and see how that goes.
- I aslo tried advancing/retarding the igntion, while it was running ok, and now its not again. And it seams to be near enough when it was running.

Failing that im proberbly going to take it someone to have them look at it, as it all needs setting up anyway. Possably get it on a road in the future as well.

Places recomended so far are (midlands area):


Pete Burgess, at Alfreton (j28 m1)
John Yoman in Whitchurch
and Aldon Automotive in Brierley hill


Daniel

dhutch

Just thought i would keep you guys up to date with whats been happening, if anyones still about.

I managed to borrow a timing strobe and a second pair of hands to work it and the ignition timing was MILES out. Like 20degrees retarded of TDC.

Advancing the distributor to its limit bought it back to about 5deg retarded, but still clearly wrong, and something else must have changed because the dizzy wasnt at the end of its limit for sure for sure.

So we did some dancing, and tried a new rotor, although as pointed out at the time, that wouldnt affect the timing just the quality of spark.

Then we got back onto the thought of slipped timing belts.

As pointed out on here, the vernier has been advanced upto the end of its limit, presumably when the engine was setup on a road or something. Who knows.

However the debated stated that although the keyways currently line up about right, bar maybe half a deg retarding. Perhaps they shouldnt?
- Surely with the vernier about in the middle it should line up, then someone advanced it. So its slipped.
- You could hypothetically advance it a tooth, then returning the vernier to its mid position would retard it back to the factory starting position.

So we decided after a while of thought that it had slipped, and hence we should advance it a tooth. And carefully turn it over to make sure there was no valve clash. (we werent that sure!)

Anyone, we did it, and fired it up, and set the ignition time with the strobe to about 20degs advance (1500revs, vacuum pipe off).

And it runs the best it had since it started causing problems. Result?

We've also set the belt tension back to about what i think it should be.



It still doesnt sound maybe dead right. Still running a bit rich i think. And popping and backing a bit. And the forward carb has got a bit of an inlet leak on it. So it all needs some attention yet. But progress seams to have been made.

I dont know what anyone elses thoughts or comments are?

Im still planning, funds allowing, to get it a rolling road asap, but she does run now. And tomorrow i try and drive her as soon as i can get her our of the drive (shes parked in).


Daniel

dhutch

No one?

Might not be the most interesting thread, but i could really do with some support, thoughts, on the thing.


Cheers, Daniel

jonnyg

Hi i have also just got this problem with it spitting out the carb on my 1900cvh engine, I have changed the black box on the dizzy and cleaned it up but have no result.
I was told at work that it could be an air leek so i changed the manifold gasket and started it up tonight and it does still not work.

The strange thing is that i was using it down brands hatch and was fine but as soon as i drove it the weekend the later the problem started and got worse.

If anyone could help i would be very greatful.

Slik Johnson

Hey guys.

I think Im having the same problem.

Ive just built a 1.6 RST engine but it hardly starts. When it does start it sound absalutly terrible. Im getting carbon fouling (over fueling) on the sparks and it not firing on all cylinders, atleast Im sure its not.

Looking at your thread Daniel my symptoms are the same, but I got a little confused reading the threads.

What do you suggest I do?

Ive tryed turning the dizzy cap and my timing belt Im sure is set-up fine (according to Haynes). But It looked like you had it pretty much sorted. Can you just put, in laymen's terms, what you did.

Thanks,

Slik

B16CVH

I would try another dizzy and go from there. Sounds like its either knackered or no1 lead is not sitting at the correct point on the dizzy cap when the engine is near TDC