havv

right, got the car back, its better but nowhere near what it should be. got a water leak from the top pipe going into the rad, it looks lke its coming straight out from where it actully connects to the rad so mighht just no be on properly. still got an oil leak from somwhere and the alternator isnt charging the battery.

alternator is new but mechanic thinks that the heat from the engine has just destroyed the loom and it needs sorting out... any tests i can do to see if its the alternator or just the wiring?

also, the oil cap keeps blowing off, but its so easy to slide on, i dont see how it would ever stay there. is it supposed to be like this?

Also..... ! at 2500ish revvs i have a horrible tapping sound, sounds like followers , but they are new... what could this be ?? the oil in there atm is semi-snth 10-40. i have mineral oil, just need to replace it, but will this have anything to do with the noise? they are cheap followers so maybe theyr just shit??

ARHHHGHH?!!?!

Fiecos Dan

Theres no chance of that with me, you get charged for timei spend, and you get a work sheet (with breakdown in times) off me for every job/day.

You can even stay and watch.


The owner of the s1 decided to buy a 2nd hand engine for me to fit, and setup, As i didn't have the time @ that point to rebuild he original engine.
But bad luck has it, the engine had bad oil pressure, and low compression on No 1.

So this week, i've got to rebuild it for him.


oil and water leaks need traceing and sorting.

The alternator, wiring or even the dash light could be to blame for no charging.

oil cap needs replacing, but it could be a crankcase pressure issue (poor breather setup, or piston ring issue)

Noise, will normally be follwers. So new cam and followers will be needed, and fitted correctly.

havv

alright mate, ill get the car down to you. when can i givve you a call?

also, im going to need to sort the alternator as there no way im ever going 100 odd miles on just a battery.

i looked at the wiring and its terrrible. frayed wires all over the places and all the frayed parts have rusted and corroded from the heat. there is defitily power going there because i gave myself a nice shock when the wire touched the turbo. going to rewire these and see what happens.

how many wires/where shoulld they be going on the alterntor?

let me know when i can call, or send me a text ill call you back!

SafeChav

If you want to temporarily wire in the alternator, you need to run the main charging cable from the alternator to the starter feed, and then connect a small bulb under the bonnet from the blue wire on the alternator to earth.

And voila that will be it! the bulb under the bonnet should illuminate & go out as the proper bulb on the instrument panel would, and if it does the battery will be getting charged.

havv

right will give that a go tommorrow.

Found out why the car wont start, back to the fuel distributor. Its getting stuck, the flap is rubbing around the edge and is not opening enough when i crank the car. i got my mate to push it down a little bit and the car fired up.

can this be fixed, or is it another fuel distributor for me ? I read on another post to push it down quite hard as it may free up something that may be causing it to stick but no luck . WD40 did nothing either...

stage 3 muppet

just get a gallon of petrol , box of matches ........ insurance
in that order and let the rest do itself lol
if youre too tight to get a PROFESSIONAL to look at it then the situation will only get worse lol
stop taking it from one shonky garage to another trying to piss in the wind lol
NEVER WORKS
ask someone off here near to you to come look at it im sure they would if you cover there petrol expense etc least they wont feed you with endless bullsiiit like the flux capacitor needs draining as its full etc

tbh getting fed up with seeing this thread myself lol but i know what its like with cars ,you grow attached ......its simple really if you like you car .......GET A PRO IN

havv

yea mate, cars going up to fiecos dan in a couple of weeks. If your fed up, dont read, i need some help, thought thats what these forums are for! Im sure this will help a lot of people as it seems to be a popular problem!

stage 3 muppet

im only fed up as ppl like you dont listen mate there was perfectly good advice given to you on the first two pages which you chose to ignore at your own cost ....... maybe this is why mechanics and garages are takin you for a mug .....just dont like seeing that happen im in no way giving you a hard time mate but cars like these cannot be taken to just any spanner monkey they need someone who understands them etc ...ie a specialist
at least theses specialists will only charge you for the labour and partsdthat need replacing etc
and have the tools to correctly test the problems

hope you get it sorted but lesson learned eh we all make mistakes .....and by the way i would threaten original builder with the trading standards etc and recoup some of your money back if i wereyou

havv

yea i know ive learned the hard way, but at least ive learned a hell of alot about RS's. i bought it knowing nothing whatsoever. i did everything that was advised on this post, well i told garages to do what fiecos dan and save chav advised, whether or not they did it is a different story... and they wernt back street garages, but they wernt specialists either...

dont worry about the 1st garage, ive appealed to trading standards, theyr helping me through it, i dont think the garage have much to play with.

SafeChav

Mate if thats the case with the metering flap i would seriously adjust that yourself, i really would not be surprised AT ALL if that was the cause of the majority of your problems...........its easy to do.

First time i ever did it i found it easy, trial and error and patience

Fiecos Dan

inside the metering unit, there is a adjuster for the flap.

SafeChav

You talking about the 10mm nut that bolts the disc onto the arm yea?

havv

right, so was looking at the car today, after much pllaying around with the metering units i have, and going through the entire fuel lines etc countless times, i finally have the car started.

However, in the process i destroyed one of my fuel lines, so need to get another.

Fuel pump has started to make funny noises, so im guessing thats going to go next so am just going to replace it to save myself any hassle later.

Havnt sorted alternator out yet, will give thata go tomrrow, from your descripition Save Chav, it doesnt seem too hard...

Also need to sort out the water leak from the pipe at rad and oil leak from dipstick tube. there is some hope...

SafeChav

So have you adjutsed the disc on the flap - and am i to assume this was the problem after all of the above?

If you want to wire the alternator in properly and permenantly its stil very simple mate - give me a shout and i will do my best to help you out

havv

well i opened it up and the flap loosened up by itself, so when i put it back together it kinda just loosned itself up. It must have been that and the combination of new sparks and charging the battery for a lonnnng while.

but i still dont feel its running right. infact im pretty sure its not. the engine shakes a hell of a lot, dont know if thats the mounts or what but it doesnt seem right. I dont know the sound of a missfire, but the engine now doesnt seem to be running smothly. the exhaust kinda surges out smoke and blows out rings !

Ive got a video camera, is there anyway i can show you exactly whats going on?? i think itl be a lot more help...

also, this morning the car didnt start... but the battery has dies quite a bit, the turnover is slower, so im assuming and hoping that these cars need a very fast turnover to start (hense charging battery again...)

I will need to wire the alternator properly, so will let you know when ive sorted out a few other things...

havv

sorry i do know the sound of a missfire, but in this case its just wierd!

SafeChav

Back once again........to one of the first things said..........AIR LEAK.

A minute air leak will make the engine run rough and sound as if it has a miss-fire, and quite often hunting at idle aswell..........

The flap shouldn't "sort itself out", if thats the case is there something loose on the arm it swings on because that just isn't right.

Fiecos Dan

If you mean tha aduster inside the unit, that moves the flap along its shaft it pivot's on.




Would not be this all along, as he brought and fitted a good meterunit off me, that come off a running car.

havv

yea i found an air leak. its new though. its coming from one of the pipes near the cold start injector... too dark to do anything now and ran out of petrol so will check it out tomrrow.

i know what you mean about sorting itself out Save Chav, but it seems to have now... it moves nicely when cranking the engine which it didnt before. If it plays up, i know what to do! .. also, will a small hole in the exhaust (about half way down car make any difference?)

really need an injector pipe, theyr bloody hard to get hold of.

Dan, keep the following week free if you can, the car needs to come down! ITs nearly there but just dont want to do anything major myself just incase i mess something up.

Fiecos Dan

ok,


This car has been at mine for 2 weeks now, but not had a chance to even look under the bonnet till Thur's night.


What can i say, the list of issues is a whole page long before i even tested anything.


Stuff like,

The cars a converted xr3i,
N- 2 fuel line from the metering unit has been replace with 'Vac pip',
Metering unit and boost pipes full up wioth oil, due to heavy breathing,
Oil lever twice over the max mark,
Breather half removed to free air, but still connected to the metering unit,
Bare Alternator wiring thats been twisted together for connection,
Low on coolant,
cold start disconnected,
3 Bolts missing out of Ex mani, and alternator,
Rocker cover cap wire'd on with speaker wire, so doesn't come off,
Cam cover just loose, cross over pipe just loose,
Oil dip stick holder loose in block, so pull out when oil level checked,
Bonnet wont even shut,
No air filter,
Alternator belt inside out,
brake fluid filled to the very top,
No lights or indicators work,
Tyres need replacing,
battery ont sitting in battery try or bolted down, as coil mounted in the way (xr3i setup).





Then i pressure checked the boost system, @ 3psi

inlet mani gasket blowing completely freely.
breather pipes pressureising. (serious piston/ring ring issue)
pipe leaking all over the plece, 3 of which were due to j-clips left loose
some Vac pipe has been replaced with Fuel line, and leaking.



Then i started it,

= missing seriously on 2.]
crank case pressure so high, the bottom end most be shagged.



I then took it up the road,

No engine power @ all (cam shagged)
and a electrical fault, which cuts whole electrics/engine in and out when it pleases.

SafeChav

A massive list there!

The one i would beg to differ on is the cold start being disconnected though

Not in a good state though

Barry R

iTrader: (3)

Bloody hell that is a big list

Fiecos Dan

The list stops there, as its not worth the time to continue looking.

because Hav is collecting it tomorrow to strip it and 'break it' as the car just isn't worth the time and cost to get it running and road legal.

havv

There you go. Breaking so if parts wanted, let me know. SafeChav, thanks for you help anyhow and anyone else who tried...

Fiecos Dan

Hope you recover as much as posible Hav.


Sorry it ended up like this, but a lesson is learn't.



Pm me your Address, so i can send you the Ł10 i miscounted.

havv

Hell yeah a lesson is learnt. i dont know if you know dan how it feels but its real SHIT!

but shit happens and time aint stopping so need to move on. parts will be on ebay soon.

dont know if i can list on here without paying or something, havnt checked it out yet but tell anyone you knowwho might be interested!

Just worked out how much in total i spend (inc towing and all that intermediate stuff on the car) = very close to Ł3000 :S

havv

thanks for your help anyway dan!

havv

SafeChav

No worries mate i wouldnt try and help if i didn't want to.

Really sorry to hear how its gone, but to be honest the way it went round in circles i did have a feeling it was going to be something fairly big wrong with it, that list is exhaustive to say the least, and just goes to show you yourself would of really struggled to git it all right, and clearly the garage that worked on the car were a bunch of fuckin clowns!

You're doing the right thing by breaking it though, hopefully you won't be too much out of pocket if any, and next time you can spend a bit more and buy a really nice one and hopefully you will enjoy owning one

havv

Its just the wierdest thing i really want to own one! Even though i know there are more reliable, faster and even better looking car out there for cheaper / same price of a good RST. i tihnk i might look into one once this one is all gone! Ill ask for advice from both of you before i do anyhow!

SafeChav

i know the feeling, i too am fully aware that there are quicker cars out there for the same or less money, but something seemed to draw me to the fords

Still that may all be changing soon as im losing interest in it altogether.

Barry R

iTrader: (3)

SAFE CHAV NOOOOO
YOU CANT GIVE UP ON THE OLD FORDS

SafeChav

Time will tell, but thats 3 years ive now owned the cabriolet and its spent a total of 6 weeks of that time on the road.........its more then likely next year i will either break it or just drop a 3i lump back in and sell it on for whatever it fetches

havv

Are you restoring it? Must be something very major if its taken you three years so far... ?

SafeChav

Hardly. it went back off the road when the cam shaft wore out (which i knew was approaching just not that soon) so i uprated the brakes which majorly needed doing, stripped and serviced the turbo, anf changed the sam shaft.

As soon as it was done and re-started it was smoking like an absolute cunt which at the time was so co-incidental i could only assume i had done something wrong to the turbo (meaning i had turned a perfectly good turbo into a knackered one)

As luck would have it there was a valve guide dropped on the head which was the cause....not sure how long it had been like that and i will have an answer.

Then i intened on having the paintwork done as its very tatty, and seeing as its a very strong car and has never been welded it seemed worthwhile, a big job though and getting round to it needed a bit of loyal dedication, and now its been broken into twice in the last year, i just really dont have the patience anymore, and now aswell as needing an expensive respray, i also need a Ł250-Ł400 roof change seeing as the little cunts that broke into it the second time slashed it all up

havv

daang! sorry to hear that man! maybe you should just think bout cutting your losses and do what you can with the car as is before it just gets worse... All depends on how determined you are to get the car back up in the end i supose ey!

Seems these old fords really need a lot of tlc, even when in mint condition, .. can imagine it becoming tedious even to the most die hard fans...

Fiecos Dan

A good un doesn't need TLC, just maintaining.

SafeChav

IMO an every day runner does need a fair amount of tolc tlc especially if it lives on the road outside, in the space of about 3 years i watched a few spots of rust forming on my old Mk1 Orion...they aren't the best cars when it coems to build quality and rust