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mk3 xr3i rear brake lights not working all the time and bat?

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Old 19-12-2006 | 03:07 PM
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Default mk3 xr3i rear brake lights not working all the time and bat?

Got a prob with my xr3i, when u press the pedal as normal whilst braking theres no brake lights.

If u park up an pump the brake pedal they flicker on an off now and then.

anyone know what up with them?


Also when the cars cold sometime the battery doesn't turn the car over to start up, but if u leave it for a while and turns over the starter motor just clicks.

The battery seems fine though cos all interior lights are fine and bright and its a good battery as i checked it on another car.

When u do get it to start when warmed up, if u switch it off and try an start again, the starter just goes click, but won't start the car up.

sounds weird i know, any ideas?

cheers
Old 19-12-2006 | 04:03 PM
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Sounds like a load of dodgy connections and Bad earths. The clicking is at worst dirty contacts in the solenoid on the starter.
Old 19-12-2006 | 04:48 PM
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Brake lights - I personally would say your switch is fucked.

Starter - I'd also say the starter is probably fucked.

Have your battery tested, its free and will eliminate that from the possibilities.
Old 19-12-2006 | 04:55 PM
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called ford about half hour ago and they said theres no brake light switch for a mk3 escort.

I assumed your talking about the one that would go behind the pedal under the dash, so as u brake the switch gets pressed and makes the brake lights come on at the rear?

is this correct?

or do both mk3 and mk4's have them for definetes?

cheers
Old 19-12-2006 | 05:09 PM
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Ring them back and tell them are a bunch of spastics then!

Of course it has a switch what a load of bollucks And yes you are right it lives up underneath the dash

Easy to remove but at the same time a complete slag of a job if you get me
Old 19-12-2006 | 05:12 PM
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And after youve told them what a bunch of spastics they are, also tell them someone who doesnt work in a Ford dealership used microcat to find the following Finis Code for the brake light switch

5007622

(as you can tell i dont like the dumb fucks in Ford dealerships )
Old 19-12-2006 | 05:32 PM
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i did say aswell, u sure mate, he was probably in a rush to go home i suppose or something along those lines.

i will have a look at the switch or replace it.


Any thoughts on what to do with the starter motor issue? what earths should i check or should i just change the starter

cheers
Old 19-12-2006 | 06:21 PM
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As i said mate, first things first, this time of year and all being renowned for killing batteries, have a free test done, and eliminate that from the list.

I would also check the battery terminals aren't loose aswell.

I could probably write a list but if its not not done in a logic order it will be a waste of time.
Old 19-12-2006 | 11:57 PM
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ok the battery in the car has a charge of 12.3

when its started up it charges and runs 13.9

Also mechanic chap reckons it might be starter itself as he says u got power more than enough to turn 1.6cvh engine over and it cranks its just the starter gets stuck and then clicks.

He said it might be the solenoid inside the starter or something thats tired or worn and he also told me to rub the earthing point down where the battery is earthed on the inner wing to bare metal and then re-bolt it down maybe using a new shiny screw that earth aswell or something.

He came over and with the same battery in the car, we flicked the key and it turned over and started 1st time.

It ran for about 4-5mins tops and then he said switch it off an lets see. When we went to restart it, the starter just spun abit and then got stuck abit and when he kept the key turned still, it tried turning again, then he released the key back to igniton setting.

he would just turn and get stuck and kinda jam, an then if u kept the key still turned it might whir as if its trying to turn again.

Does this shed any better light on the situation now?
Old 20-12-2006 | 07:24 AM
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Defo sound's like your stater is fucked mate as for the light's have you checked the plug's on the light board's at the back to makesure there not corroded. As for phoning ford they aint worth the bother if you aint got a part number for what you want or it's not within arm's length of where they stand they ALLWAYS tell you some shit
Old 20-12-2006 | 10:04 AM
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light board, the cluster thing for the rear lights u talking about?

will have a look at that to see.

gonna change the starter and see what happens and will report back
Old 20-12-2006 | 11:05 AM
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Yeah the black connectors to the lights sometimes get corroded if it's not them then it will probably be the brake switch on the pedal
Old 20-12-2006 | 02:16 PM
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Right, i can 99.9% guarntee its your starter. Its all too common for a CVH starter to stop working when it gets hot.

New starter problem solved. As for the earth wire, you can safely ignore that comment, the starter has a MASSIVE earth cable bolted directly to it, running straight from the negative battery terminal (and if hasnt )
Old 20-12-2006 | 07:29 PM
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yes it has a bit thick wire running from battery negative down to starter motor on one gearbox bolt and then the other earth runs off to the inner wing closest to the battery.

Checked the rear connectors and they were fine, but i rubbed them down with sans paper to make em shiny sorta thing for better connection.

Found the brake pedal switch an it is a damn pain to get to, right up under the dash. I pushed the brake pedal down and pressed the switch in and out but nothing at all.

For the brake lights setup is there a fuse or a relay or anything like that which may been worn out or water damaged or anything?

The switch looks fine. but doesn't do anything, even tried pushing the pedal all the way down and letting the switch spring out as much as it wanted to, but still no brake lights.

So i think its safe to say the switch needs replacing, unless theres a fuse or relay to check out first

cheers
Old 20-12-2006 | 07:34 PM
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Thats cool then. It won't be the smaller earth wire i can almost guarantee

It is ona fused circuit, pretty sure its on one of the lighting circuits, so if a fuse was gone you would also be losing sidelights or something noticeable.

The best way, and if you didn't already notice, unplug the wires on the switch, and bridge them together, if the lights work, its the switch. If not...............































Bad luck
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