No, I meant sticking with the Konis instead of going to coilovers. I would have still changed the hubs.

 

Mike do you have bump steer and camber change details for your beam? or an Ahmed beam? Also has Michael call you regarding sending something to me?

 

It as good as eliminates bump-steer and camber can be adjusted to what-ever you want.

Rear bumpsteer:
Bump
60mm - 0.030" toe in
50mm - 0.023" toe in
40mm - 0.015" toe in
30mm - 0.009" toe in
20mm - 0.005" toe in
10mm - 0.003" toe in
0.0mm - 0.000" toe in
Droop
10mm - 0.001" toe out
20mm - 0.002" toe out
30mm - 0.003" toe out

Yes he has, I have to visually inspect it tonight.

 

Do you have any details on camber change during bump/droop?

 

also is that measure from standard ride height being 0.0mm?

 

Mike,
how much are the Ahmed rear beams, do you know?

 

Didn't measure that, sorry.

Zero is the static ride height as I had the car set up to. I don't know if it was equivalent to standard, as I had 235/40 x17 tyres on, with the car set to a slightly "bum-up" stance.

FYI these measurements were taken on my Sapphire when Chris Woods set it up. He prefers static parrallel, as this gives a small amount of toe-out when moving forward. This makes the car a little nervous (and needs constant steering inputs), but it really did turn-in superbly.

On my Escort, I set the static toe to be in (0' 20"), as I didn't need the turn-in to be so aggressive with the shorter wheel-base.

 

Ł1k. Look out for the next issue of Fast Ford for a full explanation of why Cossies don't handle and how to make them do so! .

 

Hey Mike

Managed to get round to fixing the adjustable TCAs, and the freshly refurbed 3 door hubs! All went together quite easily

I havent had chance to set up properly yet (what with there being no engine in the car).

So given that we are setting up for the nurburgring, I was going to set the Camber to 2 deg neg, but how about the track?

JJ

 

Thanks Mike, do you know if this price includes fitting and setting up?

 

I would try 2°, check wear of tyre (if outside edge is getting a hammering on the front, try 2.5° and so on). The rear should be fine at 2°, might even want less on a 2wd car. Handling is VERY subjective, so you should set up the car to suit YOUR driving style.

 

Yes I do and no it doesn't.

 

I'll have some figures today on bumpsteer for my beams so will see how they compare. TBH honest i'll be happy to equal the figures you've posted as they are good. We'll have a tubular arm version also ideal for cars running slicks.

 

Have you opened the Ohlins box yet - post some decent pics up .

 

Yes I have and would like to be able to supply more of these in the future!!

I'll post pics later

 

Mike - when you say 2 deg to the rear - I assume that you mean the TCA's?

I havent put the adjustable rear beam on yet what with me having not bought it yet.

JJ

 

Could anyone post pics of the various version of Zoo beams please ?

 

No, I meant the rear, as you can slot the mounting holes and then weld washers in place to set the rear up as good as possible (which is what the Grp N cars used to have done) . The rear is usually around 1.5 - 2° neg anyway .

 

Time for an idiots guide to make sure that James (AKA Stupid (AKA Me)) has got it right......

Camber Angle


This should be set to -2 degrees (so negative camber from vertical of 2 degrees).

Toe In


What is this set to - presumably factory standard?

Castor Angle


No adjustment made to this...?

Leave the rear alone till I fund the rear beam

Cheers

JJ

 

Bought mine from Ford some 6 months ago. It costed less money than some ppl pay for used ones on eBay.

Get the complete set with bushes and the holders for the bushes as its a different diameter and the holders are made a bit sturdier than the sapph ones.

 

All your diagrams are correct.

Toe is subjective - running it parrallel on a Cossie makes them "nervous" and prone to following every bump etc in the road.

I prefer a small amount of static toe-in (2mm front 3mm rear).

The only way to adjust the castor is eccentric top mounts or shimming the ARB. On my Escort I run 3° 30" as per the Grp A tarmac settings.

As I said, handling and preferred turn-in is subjective. You need to set the car up to YOUR driving style, which will require some experimentation.

 

GREAT thread this, keep it going

 

Buy the next issue of Fast Ford and it goes into PROPER detail .

 

Oh my god, soon cossies may handle

 

hopefully aye. we just sent the first ADR beam for blasting and powder coating as they are now available to be made. more options in the pipeline too.

 

i think they always have for people who havent always spent there budget one POWER POWER AND MORE POWER

 

Like WHO? They're all into chasing numbers .

 

sooo true gareth, its not like there havent been options out there.

 

YOU?

 

That's ONE person .

 

Sounds good, Danny - post up some photos when it is all done!

Will the beam be fully adjustable?

JJ

 

some cosworths have never had any handling problems for years.

 

what beam do you use mark?

 

my own modified item gareth.

 

ahh wicked

 

I've got the complete front and rear suspension setup from nigel worswick's saph 4x4 rally car,which is basically 909 coilovers,tca's,tension struts,unknown roise jointed rear beam,rear diff cover with integral body mounting etc. all solid mounted.
This will be fitted to a saph or mk2 5 door,but with a ford v8.
Does the cars weight affect setup,as in ,the front end will be heavier than if a yb was in there.
Do any grp a settings apply on this setup? If so where do i get them from?

 

It's a 351 ci cleveland v8. dont know if this is a small or big block.

 

small - it's only 5.7 litres

 

Whats the weight comparison then? Apparently they are 300 + bhp standard.