4x4 COSSIE WOBBLE
I have read many threads now regarding wheel wobbles, but no one seems to have posted a solution.
I’m trying to solve my wheel wobble on my Escort Cosworth as well, but to no avail.
Maybe this is of some help to you, if I tell you what I’ve done so far: -
My problems manifested themselves after fitting New Koni Shocks and Ahmed Bayjoo springs.
My first thought was wheel balancing, and as I needed new tyres, I fitted new tyres onto refurbished rims and had them balanced. No difference.
Fitted new wheel bearings on both sides, as one side was very worn. No difference, which did surprise me.
Fitted new steering rack. No difference.
Fitted new steering coupling. No difference.
Fitted new track control arms with new Powerflex bushes, inner and ARB. No difference.
Fitted new Trilobe bearings both sides. No difference.
Fitted longer drive shaft on left hand side. No difference.
Fitted new top mount shock absorber rubbers. No difference.
Checked bearing on transfer shaft from diff to offside drive shaft. No play.
Checked universal joints on prop shaft from transfer case to front diff. No play.
I think I’ve changed everything that can be changed, and the wobble is still there.
So I’m open to suggestions as well.
Cheers
John
I’m trying to solve my wheel wobble on my Escort Cosworth as well, but to no avail.
Maybe this is of some help to you, if I tell you what I’ve done so far: -
My problems manifested themselves after fitting New Koni Shocks and Ahmed Bayjoo springs.
My first thought was wheel balancing, and as I needed new tyres, I fitted new tyres onto refurbished rims and had them balanced. No difference.
Fitted new wheel bearings on both sides, as one side was very worn. No difference, which did surprise me.
Fitted new steering rack. No difference.
Fitted new steering coupling. No difference.
Fitted new track control arms with new Powerflex bushes, inner and ARB. No difference.
Fitted new Trilobe bearings both sides. No difference.
Fitted longer drive shaft on left hand side. No difference.
Fitted new top mount shock absorber rubbers. No difference.
Checked bearing on transfer shaft from diff to offside drive shaft. No play.
Checked universal joints on prop shaft from transfer case to front diff. No play.
I think I’ve changed everything that can be changed, and the wobble is still there.
So I’m open to suggestions as well.
Cheers
John
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Mine developed when i put new koni springs and shocks on aswell!
Iam beginning to think i have some kind of driveshaft trouble!
My o/s driveshaft had a fucked bearing in it and was "repaired" by the garage when they fitted the shocks.
Anyone agree????????
Iam beginning to think i have some kind of driveshaft trouble!
My o/s driveshaft had a fucked bearing in it and was "repaired" by the garage when they fitted the shocks.
Anyone agree????????
just make sure that the wheels have the correct spiggot rings in the back of them
i know for a fact that without them the wheels can shake like a fucker when u go to over 50 / 60 mph
Ben
i know for a fact that without them the wheels can shake like a fucker when u go to over 50 / 60 mph
Ben
Just to add, I've checked my CV joints, and there's no up and down movement. Also checked tie rod ends, and they're stiff, with no play.
Just checked spiggot rings, and wheels fit snug on hub, although I am running a 6 mm spacer to fit over the calipers, this wasn't a problem before I fitted the Konis and springs. (Had AVO's before.)
Just checked spiggot rings, and wheels fit snug on hub, although I am running a 6 mm spacer to fit over the calipers, this wasn't a problem before I fitted the Konis and springs. (Had AVO's before.)
I've just changed the rear wheels to the front, and the fronts to the rear, and taken it for a quick spin, to see if that changed anything. Wobble still there. I'm at my wits end now, as I don't know what else to do, other that buy a different suspension setup, and bin the Konis and Ahmed Bayjoo springs......
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From: Tearing up the tarmac.....somewhere!
I had this issue on my Escort. What it took for me was to get the wheels balanced again....but this time using a seriously accurate wheel balancer. Non of the "I'll balance them for a tenner mate" kind of garages and even the big guns couldn't balance them so I used our super special one at work that we use for vibration assessment.
In discussing with a mate from our wheels and tyre dept. us "boy racers" (hes and old chap) are playing with the geometry to much. adding spacers, changing profiles of tyres and lowering the car upsets them.
Another area is that hubs can play a part to. It appears as wheel wobble but its actally the warped hubs effect on wheel rotation. Luckily for me i was ok, but its a good check. Get our you DTI gauge and just check if there is any run out/float/distortion.
Best of luck as I know how frustrating it can be.
In discussing with a mate from our wheels and tyre dept. us "boy racers" (hes and old chap) are playing with the geometry to much. adding spacers, changing profiles of tyres and lowering the car upsets them.
Another area is that hubs can play a part to. It appears as wheel wobble but its actally the warped hubs effect on wheel rotation. Luckily for me i was ok, but its a good check. Get our you DTI gauge and just check if there is any run out/float/distortion.
Best of luck as I know how frustrating it can be.
Originally Posted by Fozy
I had this issue on my Escort. What it took for me was to get the wheels balanced again....but this time using a seriously accurate wheel balancer. Non of the "I'll balance them for a tenner mate" kind of garages and even the big guns couldn't balance them so I used our super special one at work that we use for vibration assessment.
In discussing with a mate from our wheels and tyre dept. us "boy racers" (hes and old chap) are playing with the geometry to much. adding spacers, changing profiles of tyres and lowering the car upsets them.
Another area is that hubs can play a part to. It appears as wheel wobble but its actally the warped hubs effect on wheel rotation. Luckily for me i was ok, but its a good check. Get our you DTI gauge and just check if there is any run out/float/distortion.
Best of luck as I know how frustrating it can be.
In discussing with a mate from our wheels and tyre dept. us "boy racers" (hes and old chap) are playing with the geometry to much. adding spacers, changing profiles of tyres and lowering the car upsets them.
Another area is that hubs can play a part to. It appears as wheel wobble but its actally the warped hubs effect on wheel rotation. Luckily for me i was ok, but its a good check. Get our you DTI gauge and just check if there is any run out/float/distortion.
Best of luck as I know how frustrating it can be.
Get them re-balanced. I fu**ed up 2 wheels on a van. twice. The balancer at work is crap. Its a bas*ard to get the wheel straight on it.
Also tracking and make sure the tyres have the right pressure in them as this can screw it up.
Also tracking and make sure the tyres have the right pressure in them as this can screw it up.
Originally Posted by cameron2
How did you get on with the gauges?
Originally Posted by Rsailor
Get them re-balanced. I fu**ed up 2 wheels on a van. twice. The balancer at work is crap. Its a bas*ard to get the wheel straight on it.
Also tracking and make sure the tyres have the right pressure in them as this can screw it up.
Also tracking and make sure the tyres have the right pressure in them as this can screw it up.
I’ve finally got around to measuring my hubs and discs. Cleaned them up, so there was no mistake in the measurements. The run out on one hub was 0.03mm and the other 0.02mm. (The later being the new hub just fitted.) The run out on the discs, when fitted to the hubs, were 0.06mm for one side and 0.08mm on the other. (Therefore within tolerance according to my manual. Disc run out should be less than 0.1mm) These are Tarox discs, and are only on their second set of pads, so are fairly new. I rotated the discs 180 degrees on the studs, and then took it out for another test drive, and no difference. I did a hard brake from about 110mph to stand still, and the car tracked true, and no pulsating on the brake pedal. So the discs are not the problem.
When the gauge was on the hub I tried to move the hub up and down to check for play, and there was no movement on the gauge.
I’m now convinced that the shocks are the problem, as the problem only arose after they were fitted. I’m going to buy some second hand shocks, and try them out to see if the Konis are the problem.
Will post my findings when done.
Cheers
John
When the gauge was on the hub I tried to move the hub up and down to check for play, and there was no movement on the gauge.
I’m now convinced that the shocks are the problem, as the problem only arose after they were fitted. I’m going to buy some second hand shocks, and try them out to see if the Konis are the problem.
Will post my findings when done.
Cheers
John
its normally an inner cv joint problem that gives wobble over 60, over the last year mine has started to develop a wobble so im just about to repalce both inner and outer joints.
Originally Posted by JTECHSAFF
its normally an inner cv joint problem that gives wobble over 60, over the last year mine has started to develop a wobble so im just about to repalce both inner and outer joints.
Changed both the outer CV joints, and the wheel wobble has gone.
The steering and front end feels fantastic. So positive and true. Well I should think so, seeing that I’ve changed every thing that could be changed.
The steering and front end feels fantastic. So positive and true. Well I should think so, seeing that I’ve changed every thing that could be changed.
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Russ Payne
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