zetec turbo pics, rough guide, may help someone
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zetec turbo pics, rough guide, may help someone
heres what ive doneso far on my zetec turbo im building, thought it maybe of use to somepeople asi have lookied on quitea few websites to gather the info to do this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...h/P1010223.jpg
A pic of my head after i drilled and tapped the studs intothe head using a6.5mm drill bit and goin through the two stages using a tap, ps the bolt at the top is just resing in there till i get a the hea tig welded so i can drill and tap the end stud, i have put loctite on the studs as the top row breech through the oil way, but not sure wether this is the correct way to seal it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...h/P1010225.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...h/P1010226.jpg
Here i have a picture of my block with the two breathers in the back which were drilled using an18mm drill bit which were tight but sealed with jb weld to be on the safe side.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...h/P1010227.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...h/P1010221.jpg
Here i have apicture of my block which has to be stripped as i want it red lol, but has been bored out to 86mm ready for new calibra turbo pistons (brand new which im selling to get forge ones) see pic
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...h/P1010228.jpg
Here a pic of block again whiich shows where i put the turbo oil return. this is as far as i have got at the mo but hope this maybe of help to some people that are little puzzled
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...h/P1010223.jpg
A pic of my head after i drilled and tapped the studs intothe head using a6.5mm drill bit and goin through the two stages using a tap, ps the bolt at the top is just resing in there till i get a the hea tig welded so i can drill and tap the end stud, i have put loctite on the studs as the top row breech through the oil way, but not sure wether this is the correct way to seal it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...h/P1010225.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...h/P1010226.jpg
Here i have a picture of my block with the two breathers in the back which were drilled using an18mm drill bit which were tight but sealed with jb weld to be on the safe side.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...h/P1010227.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...h/P1010221.jpg
Here i have apicture of my block which has to be stripped as i want it red lol, but has been bored out to 86mm ready for new calibra turbo pistons (brand new which im selling to get forge ones) see pic
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...h/P1010228.jpg
Here a pic of block again whiich shows where i put the turbo oil return. this is as far as i have got at the mo but hope this maybe of help to some people that are little puzzled
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lack off ŁŁŁŁ got to save now as i want steel rods and forged pistons but have holiday coming up, need a rough price for getting a crank reground and knife edged, brough another silver top mondeo engine today as i needed the caps for the cams and mine was minus the crank, the bloke through in the alloy inlet alternator coil pack ertc etc Ł70 allin
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nice price mate.
i got my crank ground by a company called the jenkins brothers, its hounslow way i think, i gave it to my dads cousin as he lives over on mainland, and he dropped it in and picked it up, it cost me Ł135 for full regrind inc new bigs, mains and thrust plates.
seeing as over here on the isle of wight it was looking to be Ł160 for a regrind only
i had the block done here though, as thats was only Ł100 for rebore.
i recommend you pay a place to fit your pistons though, i paid Ł40 to have my old pistons taken off and new ones put on, money well spent.
cos if they fuck a piston, they have to replace it, same with rods.
they got all the gear and its worth the extra
i got my crank ground by a company called the jenkins brothers, its hounslow way i think, i gave it to my dads cousin as he lives over on mainland, and he dropped it in and picked it up, it cost me Ł135 for full regrind inc new bigs, mains and thrust plates.
seeing as over here on the isle of wight it was looking to be Ł160 for a regrind only
i had the block done here though, as thats was only Ł100 for rebore.
i recommend you pay a place to fit your pistons though, i paid Ł40 to have my old pistons taken off and new ones put on, money well spent.
cos if they fuck a piston, they have to replace it, same with rods.
they got all the gear and its worth the extra
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Originally Posted by rst in progress
as i needed the caps for the cams
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Originally Posted by richm
Originally Posted by rst in progress
as i needed the caps for the cams
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you might be lucky, but prob find they need to be pressed out, then the pin chiled and the piston heated and then pressed in again
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Originally Posted by jayRS
you might be lucky, but prob find they need to be pressed out, then the pin chiled and the piston heated and then pressed in again
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Originally Posted by NEWTON
Originally Posted by jayRS
you might be lucky, but prob find they need to be pressed out, then the pin chiled and the piston heated and then pressed in again
dified to exept the vauhall piston they need brass bushing
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i just dont want to build an engine spend thousands then think to myself ive got todo it allagainif i want to run a big spec? dont want to take any chances
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need to start restoring the shell though, its a pretty solid shell but would love it mint, i got some bits shot blasted yesterday to be powder coated and once i found a cheap run around will strip loads more, then strip kit etc and go your route. i really need to know if i need a rs200 rear beam to do a rear disk conversion or just calipers etc?
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you can use just the rear set up on your beam, from what i remember a couple of holes need to be elongated as they dont line up to well, but ive seen what ya got in ya grage so it wont be a prob for you that mate.
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