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Cossie Starting Problem

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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 06:58 AM
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Default Cossie Starting Problem

Hi all, got a big turbo escort cossie. After about half an hours driving one day last week it cut out on me and wouldn't restart. Called out AA who checked for spark which was OK and then for fuel which was also OK. Then after about 10 attempts at starting it it fired up and ran fine so I drove home. Following morning turned car over but wouldn't start. Have now tried so many times I've run battery flat. Any ideas what I'd need to check for next, ie sensors, etc? Any help much appreciated as I'm not calling the AA out again!
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 07:53 AM
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have the 2 multiplug connectors under the bonnet (behind the passenger headlight that connect the car loom to the engine loom) been replaced yet - these are a notorious problem for causing all sorts of strange goings on - you have to chop the wires out one at a time and solder them together with heat shrink over the top - about 2 hours work - but does have to be done as these get full of water and the wires and conenctros rot off inside
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 08:35 PM
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vyper developments
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Check the crank sensor gap and connections.

Mike.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Henshall
have the 2 multiplug connectors under the bonnet (behind the passenger headlight that connect the car loom to the engine loom) been replaced yet - these are a notorious problem for causing all sorts of strange goings on - you have to chop the wires out one at a time and solder them together with heat shrink over the top - about 2 hours work - but does have to be done as these get full of water and the wires and conenctros rot off inside
Thanks for your advice Dave, do you mean connect one set of connectors to the other?
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:41 AM
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yes - so you basically chop each connected wire out and then solder it together - one at a time so you are left with the 2 connectors to throw in the bin and then all the wires are connected properly
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 07:01 AM
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Thanks Dave, will give that a try
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Henshall
you have to chop the wires out one at a time and solder them together with heat shrink over the top (
Better still use proper straight through connectors. The professional type, they have solder inside to join the wires, once heated the solder melts and joins the 2 wires, then the outer casing shrinks to fit and also releases glue which seals the joint water tight. that way you'll not get any more problems. the only problems caused by soldering is if you dont support the wires and they vibrate, the solder will crack and you know where that will leave you

Vehicle wiring products sell them..........
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 07:44 AM
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good advise there
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 07:47 AM
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They're here on the bottom row.......

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.c...terms-pre.html

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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 04:05 PM
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Good advice about the soldering bit, but it is the solder flux + heat that makes the end of the wire brittle and so they break here if not supported.
This is the reason why no professional loom is ever soldered.
tabetha
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