xr2i not starting
Just set the meter to resistance and bung it on the terminals, i cant remember the reading but you will soon see if its gone, you may have to change to a resistance band of higher than 200 ohms.
If there is no resistance reading it has gone open circuit.
Let me know how you get on with that first......
If there is no resistance reading it has gone open circuit.
Let me know how you get on with that first......
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No you want to test the actual sensor. So you need to pull the plug off, and test on its terminals (the reason for disconnecting the plug is the meter will more than likely give a reading for the components inside the EDIS4).
It may be tricky to get at it, its got a single torx bolt holding it in if you can get it out?
It may be tricky to get at it, its got a single torx bolt holding it in if you can get it out?
Hmmmmmmmmm, sounds like an ok reading.
Next test (your guna love this)
You've got to somehow hold the terminals on the sensor, while at the same time being in the car to turn it over...........
Set the meter to AC volts, and you should get a voltage reading. (unplugged again)
(Probably wise at this point to employ your glamorous assistant to turn the car over
)
Next test (your guna love this)
You've got to somehow hold the terminals on the sensor, while at the same time being in the car to turn it over...........
Set the meter to AC volts, and you should get a voltage reading. (unplugged again)(Probably wise at this point to employ your glamorous assistant to turn the car over
)
Double check that resistance reading, just incase you had the probes touching or something.
You should see a substantial AC voltage reading (check you were on AC volts not DC)
You could also take the sensor out and wave something like a spanner past the front of the sensor, needs to be very close though.
There was a thread some time ago where someone had an XR2i which just suddenly stoped, his CPS wouldnt read the timing marks on the flywheel but would read metal objects passed in front of it, he never replied with the fault though
You should see a substantial AC voltage reading (check you were on AC volts not DC)
You could also take the sensor out and wave something like a spanner past the front of the sensor, needs to be very close though.
There was a thread some time ago where someone had an XR2i which just suddenly stoped, his CPS wouldnt read the timing marks on the flywheel but would read metal objects passed in front of it, he never replied with the fault though
ive just tested resitance and while still in car and it was the same reading and the pins were definatly not touching also i checked voltage and it came up as 0.09 when had multimeter set to 200 volts ac and 0.01 when set to 750 ac
Ah right if its on 200V AC then thats a reasonable reading....i think lol
Might be worth checking fuses next then......if the main ECU fuse has gone then i dont think the pump will operate. Could be your ECU packed up?
Might be worth checking fuses next then......if the main ECU fuse has gone then i dont think the pump will operate. Could be your ECU packed up?
ive done voltage and resistant checks on the ignition coil , crank position sensor , edis4 and ht leads and their all fine ive also bought new sparkplugs (motorcraft) and it still wont spark it just cranks over and over and theirs no spark at all
any ideas mate ?
any ideas mate ?
Originally Posted by fiestaxr2i
ive done voltage and resistant checks on the ignition coil , crank position sensor , edis4 and ht leads and their all fine ive also bought new sparkplugs (motorcraft) and it still wont spark it just cranks over and over and theirs no spark at all
any ideas mate ?
any ideas mate ?
I have a spare 1AFA ECU, (asuming yours is not turbo)
Originally Posted by Batfink
safechav
You really now your stuff
You really now your stuff

definate the fuse hasnt gone but havnt tested relay as i cannt work out which one is the engine control relay as its not listed in manualas having one
how much do you want for ecu inc postage and does it defo work
also could it be a weak starter as it doesnt seem to crank as fast as it should but that could just be me lol as wouldnt this affect the crank senor not getting a correct reading
how much do you want for ecu inc postage and does it defo work
also could it be a weak starter as it doesnt seem to crank as fast as it should but that could just be me lol as wouldnt this affect the crank senor not getting a correct reading
There should be a control relay. Did you say the engine is a transplant? The relay is usually red.
If its not cranking over fast enough then it is quite common to cause problems as the CPS doesn't produce a good enough signal for the ECU to work with, but however seeing as the fuel pump doesn't run either that would point more to the ECU being at fault.
If its not cranking over fast enough then it is quite common to cause problems as the CPS doesn't produce a good enough signal for the ECU to work with, but however seeing as the fuel pump doesn't run either that would point more to the ECU being at fault.
theirs 1 red one which is about twice the height of the others but its listed as wiper delay relay apart from that their aint one and in the maual the only other relays that arnt to do with the lights or heated screens are
cfi delay relay
ignition switch
automatic transmission starter inhibitor/electric fuel pump(bridge fitted to carburettor engines without automatic transmission)
cfi delay relay
ignition switch
automatic transmission starter inhibitor/electric fuel pump(bridge fitted to carburettor engines without automatic transmission)
Originally Posted by fiestaxr2i
theirs 1 red one which is about twice the height of the others but its listed as wiper delay relay apart from that their aint one and in the maual the only other relays that arnt to do with the lights or heated screens are
cfi delay relay
ignition switch
automatic transmission starter inhibitor/electric fuel pump(bridge fitted to carburettor engines without automatic transmission)
cfi delay relay
ignition switch
automatic transmission starter inhibitor/electric fuel pump(bridge fitted to carburettor engines without automatic transmission)
I stick reckon ECU though.
The thin wires is a good suggestion too
thin wires are fine
the only red one ive got is the wiper one i have a green one next to the yellow one ( fuel pump) the green one is ignition switch which will activate the fuel pump relay ie when it primes
the only red one ive got is the wiper one i have a green one next to the yellow one ( fuel pump) the green one is ignition switch which will activate the fuel pump relay ie when it primes
do you reckon if i get the red relay it will work can the relay be affecting it though as it clicks each time i turn the ignition and everything on car works apart from spark and pump
also whats IIRC mean
also whats IIRC mean


