Right basically posted bout this a while back but its still not running right.

Its a 1.6 8v and the ONLY way i can get it to start and run is buy unplugging the pipe going to the map sensor and after cranking it a few times it will turn over and run within reason (revs a but high and obivously with the pipe disconnected its causing an air leak!!)

If i leave the pipe on it'll sometimes try 2 turn over but wontand stall..

Basically ive tried another ECU, 2 map sensors, replaced pretty much every sensor bar the crank 1, and replaced all the inlet gaskets as i thought there might be an air leak.

Admiteddly their all 2nd hand sensors/ecu etc ones but should still work.

Out of ideas so any more suggestions before i have 2 take it somewhere?!!?!

Cheers

Tony

 

have u checked you ignition module? and also ur fezz is E-DIS there should be a plug conected to it check the wires they snaped once on mine and it was a hedache to find out, and just one question where is ur idle speed control valve?

 

Ive changed the ignition module for another one mate, also is the e-dis unit the quivilent of the map sensor ie what the vacumm pipe goes onto?!?!

The ISCV is on the bulk head mate!!

 

Right a mate came down and looked, turns out the injectors are getting about 12v which aparently is way too much?! tried a different ecu and no joy so he said to replace the engine loom, any other ideas?!

Cheers

 

I thought injectors were 12v myself?????? The E-DIS isn't the same as the map sensor no. The E-DIS is the basic spark controller, then the ECU takes information from all the various sensors then calculates a SAW (Spank Advance Word) for the E-DIS and it will modify the spark timing accordingly. So in the event of a fault it should still start and run but performance and economy won't be at their best. (LOS mode Limited Operation Strategy)

The MAP sensor is a different means of doing the same job as cars that have a Air Flow Sensor.

Not too sure what else to suggest, im presuming its an XR2i yeah?

 

Yea its an xr2i, wont run at all with the map sensor pipe on but after a few cranks will turn over wiht it off but runs like shit.

As far as he knows injectors shouldnt be pushing 12v, he's a master tech at ford so knows his stuff. Tried getting a loom 2day but the local breakers ddidnt have any 2i's but had 4 last tim*e i went doh!!

Has 2 be something thats degraded as it was fine then slowly got worse till it gave up altogether!!! and ive tried 2 map sensors and anothee E-DIS sensor so im stuck untill i try another ecu

 

I can't see it being the wiring myself. Im not 100% on the injectors but if your mate is a Ford Techy bloke then i'd say he must be right.

I've got both an XR2i loom and a 1AFA ecu but im going to use them shortly otherwise i sort you out

 

injectors are 12v feed

 

I second that.
Sounds like a sensor problem to me. What ever happened to the spark problem you had?

 

Thank you

 

ive had loads of xr2i's.
There are a few different types of ecu, Ford had a recall on the earlier 1's cos of a faulty idle speed control valve and if you has it on the bulkhead than it has been recalled at some point in its life!
That means they changed the ecu for a different 1 so the ecu's you hav tried may not be compatable. same goes for chipping them!
I bought a chip for 1 of mine and it made it run well shit but the same chip worked on 1 i had a little while later.
Just make sure you are using the correct bits and pieces mate

 

Ok fair enuff might not be the loom after all then

JesseT what spark problem?!?! it'll turn over eventually if the map sensor pipes disconneted..........

Yea craig my ISCV is on the bulk head!! the ECU i have, and the 1 i got both had GTE written on them but didnt check the serial numbers etc.

Tbh cant remember if the ecu i got had the ISCV on the bulkhead or not doh!! was a while ago now But my old 1 has got a superchip in it to run with the fast road cam!! which had both been in the car for ages before i had it.

Tried both ECU's with and without the chip in with no luck doh

Spose its worth trying 2 get hold of the same ECU thats in the car then?! just dont wanna spend money on 1 to find out its not that

 

It might be the potentiometer. Have you replaced the spark plugs and ht leads?. I'd try that and clean out the ISCV with petrol.

 

try the coolant temp sensor mate, this can call all sorts of problems if it goes wrong believe it or not.

 

What code has youe ECU got, they have 4 digit codes on a white label on the oposite side of the plug to where it says GTE, the normal code on these being 1AFA.

 

Which is what?!?!

Tried a different coolant sensor on it but that wasnt new either so spose its worth a go getting a new 1 just to see couldnt hurt................

WIll have a look at the codes on the ECU and get back 2 u mate

Actually rememeber the car was running shit for a while before it eventually gave up so, not that helps much now but still

 

A potentiometer is another name for a rheostat, aka a variable resistor.A potentiometer converts rotary motion to a resistence value. Some act as a voltage divider.
Basically the electrical timing will be wrong with performance reduced, misfires, rough running etc.

 

Any idea where they are on a fez mate?!

 

i think hes trying to say throttle positon sensor but sound clever at the same time

 

LMAO

In answer to the question its on the side of the throttle housing, on the shaft that the throttle cable rotates, black multi plug going to it with 3 wires.

 

To be honest I was going to write a little post to defend myself from
xr-stu pid , but he's right.

I was quoting exactly what somebody told me on another forum this week after I had the potentiometer replaced which cured all problems Toe Knee is experiancing

gd luck with solving ur problem

 

LMAO again

 

Ah yes TPS would have understood it a bit sooner

Changed it for one from another 2i and still had the same prob but admitedly was a 2nd hand 1 so may be worth just changings all the sensors for new ones.

 

Test it with a multimeter before u fork out

 

ok my turn

right the injectors are def +12v supply

on the tps get test metre and test between pins should be between top&bott pin(2000-5500 ohms)on pins 2&3(150-2000 ohms throttle closed then try same pins with throttle wide open(3500-5000 ohms) on pins 1&2 (4000-5500 ohms)

but if you have to let air into inlet manifold sounds like 1 of 2 things running too rich(coolant temp sensor,intake air temp sensor,fuel press reg)

or the idle speed control valve,basicly this is a air bypass valve that the e.c.u determins how long it stays open witch is singnal fed from the ecu from engine temp sensor this alows more air into the inlet for cold starts and when using heaters etc the revs dont drop to far down.this is basicly what u are doind by pulling of the pipe...

have u tryed keeping the revs up after i starts if so dose it smoke (black)

also the crank position sensor is worth a try too

tommy

 

Well the only way it'l run is with the pipe off wont with it on unless i unplug the air temp sensor then as soon as u rev it splutters like fuck then dies!!

With the pipe off it smokes, think he tried the regulator but obviously could be a prob.

Even when its warm it still does it so not sure if its the ISCV as it still does it when u unplug it but thats 1 thing i havnt changed.

Think its more likely 2 be a sensor now i think about it as it did slowly get worse and run badly till it stopped but that was about a year ago now

Will check the TPS valves cheers mate

 

Finally sorted!!!!!

It turned out to be one of the seals that go on the part between the pump and the fuel line!! had perished so there was a loss of fuel pressure which is why it wouldnt run!!!!!!!!! Runs fine now so a quick clean and service and shes as good as new #

THought i'd just update incase anyone else has the same problem as no1 ive spoken to even suggested changing that

Cheers for all the tips thou peeps

 

We might of mentioned that if you said you had fuel pissing out everywhere

 

I didnt thou mate thats the thing

It was the pipe inside the tank not the outside so no fuel pissing out anywhere. theres a tiny little plastic bridging thing that goes from the pump to the metal pipe that comes out of the tank to the rubber fuel line!! like some sort of mini reservoir, can post a pic of it when i get a sec to take 1.

There was fuel getting into the rail, but eventually worked out by disconnecting the fuel return pipe to the tank on the bottom of the regulator there was no fuel flowing back out so obviously not enuff pressure coming from the pump!! thought it was gonna be a knackered pump but i saw the perished seal and temporarily bridged the connection swith a fuel pipe and it started spot on