having read this thread it has opened up my eyes to what is involved in engine building. I can now appreciate the time , skill and effort that goes into making a top performing engine. In turn it is fair to say that when people are quoted prices, we can see why.

I still want to have a bash at building an engine, in time i will have a go.

keep up the informative posts on this and many other tech subjects, it does make some interesting reading and can only benefit our fellow enthusiasts

 

Crank was a standard 4x4 Cozzy item

Not got a pic though

Suppose any 4x4 Cozzy crank pic could be used for comparison

 

Heres one but not a closeup

 

Stu, thats still good enough for people to see the difference in the other one, especially the knife edging

 

what sort of price should i be expecting to pay to have a bottom end balanced with knife edged crank?

 

Good thread Chip mate. Will have a proper read when i get time

 

Very good thread chip.

Just like to add i usually use some graphite based assembly lube.

I'm not usually sure how long it will be between build and running so prefer this to engine oil.

Are you going to cover running in practises after this? Makes sense and always generates some good discussion!

 

Im not mate, you are, in the new thread you are about to start

No excuses!

 

Soooooo over my head!!! my its threads like these that make this site sooo much better than other the other dross.

 

HI, All,

Chip good topic, only thing i can add is to also fit thrust washers & correct way round, also with the main caps fit in the correct location in the
block in relation to the front of the engine 12345, order,
and fit the pistons to rod's the correct way around, with the rings also in the correct order ie comp rings at the top of piston and oil ring at the bottom spaced around the piston before fitting into cylinder bore, keep rods & bigend caps also in order of removal,or if buying aftermarket rod's keep in order. some of this may seem obvious, but to other's a lerning curve which this topic is all about.
DAVE R.

 

People may be interested in this CVH build topic i did some time ago, not very technical but very pictorial.

https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=99889

 

Ok, give me an hour and I'll see what i can do. No work this avo then!

 

DaveR, i will cover most of that in the later chapters anyway mate, but yes those are all good valid points

 

another good read

 

http://www.wdbltd.co.uk

They are based in Halesowen - West Mids

Crank, Flywheel, Clutch Cover, Rods, Pistons, Con Rod Pins, Front Pulley and Crank Bolt.

All the above items are needed as all go towards final balancing.

Crank knife edged, all other components are lightened and weight matched.

ISO/BS Certificate issued "balanced @ 8000rpm"

This company also balances turbine rotors and are Rolls Royce approved.

Hopefully my picture shows their quality !

Cost for a Pinto/Cozzy bottom end balance and knife edge apprx £300

 

RS2000CUSTOM thanks a lot

 

No probs mate

Their works appears to be spot on

BUT

Only when engine is running can I pass a final opinion on how good they are

I am confident though !!

 

that sounds fair enough any idea when you will have the engine running?

 

wow,just remembered this thread,was a good time when we had the technical threads going

this one in particular goes to show why YB builds done properly cost what they do. there may be less than £2k of parts,but it takes hours and hours to properly measure,balance,prepare,weigh etc etc and then every nut and bolt needs to be torqued and loctite'd up.

if you think a companies price is really cheap,then it usually is for a reason no names mentioned

i loved building my old engine up, i didn't enjoy removing it and stripping it when it was covered in oil though

 

got me worried now chip i have only done the assembly of my engine (built a few zetecs before with no probs)

i gave the block, pistons, rods and crank to the machine shop, so i hope they done all the neccessary measurements as then specced the bearings and bored the block!

i decided to go 0.5mm oversize on the pistons, so the block had to be bored to suit. the machine shop measured and numbered the pistons to go in the appropriately bored cylinder







and then the block was honed so the piston rings will bed in



they also polished the crank



and got the bearings, heavy duty big ends (left), and std mains (right)




didnt take too many pics of the build unfortunatly

pistons on rods



bearings and crank installed - the black stuff is graphogen grease



pistons and rods installed





head gasket, oil pump gasket and bolts etc



siemans 680cc injectors



piper cam kit



ported/polished and big valve head



head on



thats all the pics i have at the mo uploaded, ill try and find the ones of the cam kit installed, and the timing belt and pums etc on, but will take a while to find.


lightened billit flywheel, its a cosworth style one with a zetec bolt pattern to allow the use of a T5 gearbox

 

Great read!

Is there any difference or different recommendations for building a boosted engine rather than an NA one?

 

No differance in build practice but the clearances will be totally different from NA to forced induction.....mainly just in the piston to bore and ring gaps. The clearance will differ with each piston make(material) and will finally be determined by how the engine is to be used in terms of heat ranges,ultimate power figure and depending if you like a sniff of nitrous or not.