Fitting an uprated walbro fuel pump in an escos
27-02-2005, 06:24 PM
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Fitting an uprated walbro fuel pump in an escos
First job, disconnect the battery and make sure there are no ignition sources nearby. best make sure that there is just enough fuel so that the fuel light is on aswell.....
if you have a motorsport shell this is much much easier as there is a removable panel ni the boot floor specifically for the purpose, if you have a lux, standard or small turbo you have to do it like this...
jack the back of the car up and remove the rear wheels. place it on an axle stands. open the boot lid and remove the spare wheel and carpets etc to gain access to the bumper bolts. remove the rear bumper (this is not absolutely necessery but does make the job a lot easier and doesnt take a couple of mins to do. the nuts are under the rear plastic trim...
there are 2 straps which hold the plastic moulded tank. these hook in holes underneath the bumper and go under and bolt to a captive nut , one on each side. now these will more than likely snap, all turn and round off as they are poxy and get full of ming. support the tank and before removing the jubilee clip from the filler neck, i had to use an angle grinder to cut off the old nuts. be carefull when the second strap goes, you will need someone to hold and steady the tank. when it is free it can be lowered gently, allow the fuel lines and breather lines to come free from the clips which keep them in place. you will have needed to undo the jubilee clip on the filler at this point , again this will be rusty and minging, i chopped it off witha good pair of snips to be repaced with a new stainless steel one.
with the tank lowered, you will need to remove the plastic fuel line connectors, these are like pnuematic pushfit connectors, spray loads of wd40 they will come off, but squeze the tabs in and wiggle, they are a sod to come off but do when they do
red return, white flow.
when off, you will need to undo the ring around the sender/pump mout, this again will be rusty, loads of wd and a big screwdriver and a hammer, and about half an hour of tapping , it will come free, remove the pump as below...
the new pump , a walbro 255l/h unit can be seen here next to the original one...
its a GSS340 for refrence...
connect up in place of the std one, it does all come out fiarly easilly, just take s abit of waggling, you may need to crimp a new female shrouded spade connector on the ford wiring to allow it to connect to the spades on the pump. alternitvely, yuo can use the new heavy gauge cable and sub loom supplied , to run the feed out the tank, you will need to drill a hole in the top of the sender unit to do this. this would be best if you are running a new feed direct frmo the battery to eliminate volt drop to the pump.
while its all easily accessable, that fuel filter looks like it could do with changing....
for a nice new one
then refit the pump etc i reverse order, you may very well need a new rubber seal and locking ring, depending how badly mashed the old one was in taking it off.
the strap will need new bolts and for you to hold some new nuts inthe open section above while they get started, i used stainless ones again so IF it need droppni nithe future it should come down freely.
reconnect everythying and bang the battery on, turn to click 2 and allow it all to prime, check for leaks and away you go
if you have a motorsport shell this is much much easier as there is a removable panel ni the boot floor specifically for the purpose, if you have a lux, standard or small turbo you have to do it like this...
jack the back of the car up and remove the rear wheels. place it on an axle stands. open the boot lid and remove the spare wheel and carpets etc to gain access to the bumper bolts. remove the rear bumper (this is not absolutely necessery but does make the job a lot easier and doesnt take a couple of mins to do. the nuts are under the rear plastic trim...
there are 2 straps which hold the plastic moulded tank. these hook in holes underneath the bumper and go under and bolt to a captive nut , one on each side. now these will more than likely snap, all turn and round off as they are poxy and get full of ming. support the tank and before removing the jubilee clip from the filler neck, i had to use an angle grinder to cut off the old nuts. be carefull when the second strap goes, you will need someone to hold and steady the tank. when it is free it can be lowered gently, allow the fuel lines and breather lines to come free from the clips which keep them in place. you will have needed to undo the jubilee clip on the filler at this point , again this will be rusty and minging, i chopped it off witha good pair of snips to be repaced with a new stainless steel one.
with the tank lowered, you will need to remove the plastic fuel line connectors, these are like pnuematic pushfit connectors, spray loads of wd40 they will come off, but squeze the tabs in and wiggle, they are a sod to come off but do when they do
red return, white flow.when off, you will need to undo the ring around the sender/pump mout, this again will be rusty, loads of wd and a big screwdriver and a hammer, and about half an hour of tapping , it will come free, remove the pump as below...
the new pump , a walbro 255l/h unit can be seen here next to the original one...
its a GSS340 for refrence...
connect up in place of the std one, it does all come out fiarly easilly, just take s abit of waggling, you may need to crimp a new female shrouded spade connector on the ford wiring to allow it to connect to the spades on the pump. alternitvely, yuo can use the new heavy gauge cable and sub loom supplied , to run the feed out the tank, you will need to drill a hole in the top of the sender unit to do this. this would be best if you are running a new feed direct frmo the battery to eliminate volt drop to the pump.
while its all easily accessable, that fuel filter looks like it could do with changing....
for a nice new one
then refit the pump etc i reverse order, you may very well need a new rubber seal and locking ring, depending how badly mashed the old one was in taking it off.
the strap will need new bolts and for you to hold some new nuts inthe open section above while they get started, i used stainless ones again so IF it need droppni nithe future it should come down freely.
reconnect everythying and bang the battery on, turn to click 2 and allow it all to prime, check for leaks and away you go
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