My 24v Sapphire Cosworth (UPDATE: Back OFF The Road)
30-10-2011, 07:56 PM
#41
or just click the link in my sig that says "quick shift" and some of the pics will explain stuff 
the 2wd selector only has the 2 forward bolts and nothing at the rear (there is nothing to bolt onto) and the selector rod is fit in and clipped as opposed to round and fitted with the pin and spring
the 2wd selector only has the 2 forward bolts and nothing at the rear (there is nothing to bolt onto) and the selector rod is fit in and clipped as opposed to round and fitted with the pin and spring
30-10-2011, 08:18 PM
#43
it's a steel rod with a bit on one end that goes to the bottom of the selector and a hooked pointy bit on the other than goes into the gearbox end
it's a very common failure point from what i can tell but seeing as there are plenty of 2wd mt75 boxes floating about the place, getting hold of a spare shouldn't be a problem
it's a very common failure point from what i can tell but seeing as there are plenty of 2wd mt75 boxes floating about the place, getting hold of a spare shouldn't be a problem
30-10-2011, 08:28 PM
#44
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The reason I asked if it was steel is to see if it can be repaired as I need to get it sorted as soon as possible.
Thanks to Dojj everyone for their help and advice I really appreciate it so hopefully I can get it sorted tomorrow
Thanks to Dojj everyone for their help and advice I really appreciate it so hopefully I can get it sorted tomorrow
30-10-2011, 08:32 PM
#45
you can weld it yes, but not sure if the bit thats broken would then foul the bits it needs to work within
and it also depends on where it's broken as well
or it oculd be the cradle that's bent which would spanner any work you were thinking of doing
and it also depends on where it's broken as well
or it oculd be the cradle that's bent which would spanner any work you were thinking of doing
31-10-2011, 10:09 PM
#46
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Well after scrabbling around on the drive realised it just wasnt possible to do the job on stands. So the car has gone on a little holiday to a local garage called NDB who are a great and helpful bunch of guys, and they have managed to repair it for me.
In the mean time as a couple of people have asked me to post some, here are a couple of pics of the engine…
Should have the car back tomorrow all sorted
In the mean time as a couple of people have asked me to post some, here are a couple of pics of the engine…
Should have the car back tomorrow all sorted
01-11-2011, 01:41 AM
#47
Fart of the Purniture
This is very nearly what I wanted to see.....
What fans do you have mate?
I am doing a 24v conversion on a saff, got some twican 8v sierra twin cooling fans as they fit the 24v radiator no problem ( I thought these were what everyone used), but you cant fit them as there too thick - catching on the pulleys!
Any chance of a description and photo of your clearence between the back of the fans and the pulleys?
Ken lowe fans a little out of my price range, but don't trust the cheap ebay slimline type fans.
Cheers
What fans do you have mate?
I am doing a 24v conversion on a saff, got some twican 8v sierra twin cooling fans as they fit the 24v radiator no problem ( I thought these were what everyone used), but you cant fit them as there too thick - catching on the pulleys!
Any chance of a description and photo of your clearence between the back of the fans and the pulleys?
Ken lowe fans a little out of my price range, but don't trust the cheap ebay slimline type fans.
Cheers
01-11-2011, 01:53 AM
#48
Fart of the Purniture
Actually, just studying the second of your engine bay pictures, are they the twincam 8v Sierra fans?
Sure looks like the metal shrouding and the wires
Sure looks like the metal shrouding and the wires
01-11-2011, 08:43 AM
#49
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I'm sure they are just the standard twink fans, although mine being based on a ghia used to have aircon so it does have a twin fan setup, if that changes the spacing at all. The fan on right (looking into the bay) doesn't work, it's seized up so I need to sort that. When I pick the car up later I'll take a picture of them and put it up.
Last edited by skinnarbi; 01-11-2011 at 08:45 AM.
01-11-2011, 09:10 PM
#53
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+2
Thanks for all the advice mate
Picked the car up this evening, linkage is sorted so I can actually drive the car, but once fixed the garage found the box didn't like 2nd gear, it won't go in at low revs, you need to match the engine speed to get it in, so I think I'm right in assuming the syncro is shot on 2nd (correct me if I'm wrong) so I think a trip to my local transmission specialist and get him to check it out.
Thanks for all the advice mate
Picked the car up this evening, linkage is sorted so I can actually drive the car, but once fixed the garage found the box didn't like 2nd gear, it won't go in at low revs, you need to match the engine speed to get it in, so I think I'm right in assuming the syncro is shot on 2nd (correct me if I'm wrong) so I think a trip to my local transmission specialist and get him to check it out.
01-11-2011, 10:20 PM
#54
the fans are held in with 3 nuts/bolts and you simply undo the 2 securing bolts for the fan shroud, unplug the loom to the fans and pull it out
you can then mess about with it on the bench as the fans will more than likely have these threaded bits corroded
if the fan is siezed you can simply replace them and slot them back in again, almost the easiest thing to do on a sierra
apparently the diseasal fans used a slimmer shroud so you could always try and find them
alternativly you can also mount the rad in one of the more forward mounting holes in the chassis legs to give you more clearance if you feel the standard twinky fans aren't up to scratch room wise
the sierra's were biult to such a random standardization that what may fit on one won't fit on another car, even though the shells are identical
you can then mess about with it on the bench as the fans will more than likely have these threaded bits corroded
if the fan is siezed you can simply replace them and slot them back in again, almost the easiest thing to do on a sierra
apparently the diseasal fans used a slimmer shroud so you could always try and find them
alternativly you can also mount the rad in one of the more forward mounting holes in the chassis legs to give you more clearance if you feel the standard twinky fans aren't up to scratch room wise
the sierra's were biult to such a random standardization that what may fit on one won't fit on another car, even though the shells are identical
01-11-2011, 10:23 PM
#55
+2
Thanks for all the advice mate
Picked the car up this evening, linkage is sorted so I can actually drive the car, but once fixed the garage found the box didn't like 2nd gear, it won't go in at low revs, you need to match the engine speed to get it in, so I think I'm right in assuming the syncro is shot on 2nd (correct me if I'm wrong) so I think a trip to my local transmission specialist and get him to check it out.
Thanks for all the advice mate
Picked the car up this evening, linkage is sorted so I can actually drive the car, but once fixed the garage found the box didn't like 2nd gear, it won't go in at low revs, you need to match the engine speed to get it in, so I think I'm right in assuming the syncro is shot on 2nd (correct me if I'm wrong) so I think a trip to my local transmission specialist and get him to check it out.
you will probably have felt the box not going into 2nd as fast as you would like as the boxes won't slow down fast enough to make the quick changes needed to get a good pull away from the lights, i used to find that my box would take longer to change from 1st to 2nd than it took to use up 1st
01-11-2011, 10:58 PM
#56
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1st/2nd gear syncro hub will be shot, it's not gripping the gear to slow it down as the brass bits have worn out from too much quick shifting
you will probably have felt the box not going into 2nd as fast as you would like as the boxes won't slow down fast enough to make the quick changes needed to get a good pull away from the lights, i used to find that my box would take longer to change from 1st to 2nd than it took to use up 1st
you will probably have felt the box not going into 2nd as fast as you would like as the boxes won't slow down fast enough to make the quick changes needed to get a good pull away from the lights, i used to find that my box would take longer to change from 1st to 2nd than it took to use up 1st
02-11-2011, 11:30 AM
#57
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03-11-2011, 08:10 PM
#59
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03-11-2011, 08:36 PM
#61
PassionFord Post Whore!!
find a twinky gear box and give it to a gear box man, should not cost you more than Ł100 to swap it, he needs to strip the boxes down that's why the cost.
03-11-2011, 08:52 PM
#63
The blue Azura used to be mines, I sold it to the guy who owns it now about 6 months ago. It's not been looked after much since I sold it. I replaced the engine, box, wheels, front bumper, drivers seat, fuel pump, tank and loads of other bits on it. Was running A1 when he got it. I think the running problem is fuel pump related. It was a second hand group A pump that was put on it and I rewired it. Maybe a loose connection or the pumps no good. The guy who I got it from bought it from Wales with a rattly engine. He changed the engine and I ran with that engine for about 6 months, sold it to my mate who burst the radiator and trashed the engine hence why I put another one in it. Would have been a good project for you it was a solid shell with no welding.
03-11-2011, 09:19 PM
#65
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The blue Azura used to be mines, I sold it to the guy who owns it now about 6 months ago. It's not been looked after much since I sold it. I replaced the engine, box, wheels, front bumper, drivers seat, fuel pump, tank and loads of other bits on it. Was running A1 when he got it. I think the running problem is fuel pump related. It was a second hand group A pump that was put on it and I rewired it. Maybe a loose connection or the pumps no good. The guy who I got it from bought it from Wales with a rattly engine. He changed the engine and I ran with that engine for about 6 months, sold it to my mate who burst the radiator and trashed the engine hence why I put another one in it. Would have been a good project for you it was a solid shell with no welding.
03-11-2011, 09:32 PM
#66
Yeah it probably would have been. I've owned it twice and done alot of work to it. Shame if someone doesn't get it now and put it right. It was going that way before I got it back and fixed her up. Seems to be going that way again.
Last edited by 3FRD; 03-11-2011 at 09:37 PM.
03-11-2011, 09:38 PM
#67
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Stephen Morgan? It was ok, but just that running problem and the boot wouldnt open, the running issue could've been a simple fix, but I couldn't risk a 550 mile trip home with it not running 100percent
03-11-2011, 09:42 PM
#68
The boot opened before not sure why it wouldn't open now. I'd guess it was fuel pump related, I sorted out alot of the dodgy wiring on it the 1st time around. It ran like a dog the last time the fuel pump went funny. Wouldn't start then would be ok for a while and then run like a dog again, was fine ever since I changed it. A new fuel pump would probably sort it.
03-11-2011, 09:50 PM
#69
you get a 2.9 4x4 v6 mt75 box and a standard rwd mt75 box
the front casing and input shaft from the 4wd box replaces the same on the rwd box
voila, hybrid box
edited to say that you will be looking at probably Ł300 all in to get teh box rebuilt like new, well, at least that what it used to cost me to remove, rebuild, refit and oil up my one
the front casing and input shaft from the 4wd box replaces the same on the rwd box
voila, hybrid box
edited to say that you will be looking at probably Ł300 all in to get teh box rebuilt like new, well, at least that what it used to cost me to remove, rebuild, refit and oil up my one
Last edited by dojj; 03-11-2011 at 09:52 PM.
03-11-2011, 11:06 PM
#71
Advanced PassionFord User
Yes tools and bearing pullers. But if you can find a diesel mt75 rwd box the its just the long socket you need for the input shaft. Then its just swap the front case half.
04-11-2011, 12:45 AM
#72
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you get a 2.9 4x4 v6 mt75 box and a standard rwd mt75 box
the front casing and input shaft from the 4wd box replaces the same on the rwd box
voila, hybrid box
edited to say that you will be looking at probably Ł300 all in to get teh box rebuilt like new, well, at least that what it used to cost me to remove, rebuild, refit and oil up my one
the front casing and input shaft from the 4wd box replaces the same on the rwd box
voila, hybrid box
edited to say that you will be looking at probably Ł300 all in to get teh box rebuilt like new, well, at least that what it used to cost me to remove, rebuild, refit and oil up my one
05-11-2011, 09:43 AM
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you get a 2.9 4x4 v6 mt75 box and a standard rwd mt75 box
the front casing and input shaft from the 4wd box replaces the same on the rwd box
voila, hybrid box
edited to say that you will be looking at probably Ł300 all in to get teh box rebuilt like new, well, at least that what it used to cost me to remove, rebuild, refit and oil up my one
the front casing and input shaft from the 4wd box replaces the same on the rwd box
voila, hybrid box
edited to say that you will be looking at probably Ł300 all in to get teh box rebuilt like new, well, at least that what it used to cost me to remove, rebuild, refit and oil up my one
Last edited by chaffe; 05-11-2011 at 09:46 AM.
05-11-2011, 06:44 PM
#76
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http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap...dc9417pwr.html
Will this fit my car?
My current clutch plate is 242mm so I would assume it fits.
Is there a lightened fly wheel that will fit too?
Will this fit my car?
My current clutch plate is 242mm so I would assume it fits.
Is there a lightened fly wheel that will fit too?
Last edited by skinnarbi; 05-11-2011 at 06:46 PM.
05-11-2011, 08:28 PM
#77
it's the same clutch as the cosworth so no issues there
as for stripping the box, the front came off, i undid one bolt that holds the revere gear on the front casing, front comes off, big circlip and enough play to slide the front input shaft out and job done
looks like you've gone the whole hog and undone the big bolt in the back as well to remove it all, but it's been several years since i did mine so i may have forgotten how to change the selector stuff with it's little 10mm bolts but other than that i can't remember it taking longer than about 30 minutes apart and together again
as for stripping the box, the front came off, i undid one bolt that holds the revere gear on the front casing, front comes off, big circlip and enough play to slide the front input shaft out and job done
looks like you've gone the whole hog and undone the big bolt in the back as well to remove it all, but it's been several years since i did mine so i may have forgotten how to change the selector stuff with it's little 10mm bolts but other than that i can't remember it taking longer than about 30 minutes apart and together again
05-11-2011, 11:10 PM
#78
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Well we took the box apart at work today, figured if it was already broke what have I got to lose, everything seemed ok, all teeth were present and it went from one gear to the next no problem at all, so it must be a little mis-alignment in my repaired gear linkage, so we fixed that again, put the box back together and it seems to go through the gears no issues (albeit on a bench) so fingers crossed that's all it was. But the clutch and pressure plate are cooked. So I thought I may aswell change the clutch and put a decent one in while I'm at it.
07-11-2011, 11:41 PM
#79
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Well the car is back on the road, box was all ok, turned out when the gear linkage was repaired it wasn't lined up properly hence it wasnt going into 2nd properly. So got a new clutch in, got one of my guys at work to repair the linkage properly this time (should've have done this the first time) drives great again