ZX10R turbo kit car build - update 10-08-13
12-09-2011, 10:16 PM
#403
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
Cheers lads 
I trial fitted the aeroscreen tonight to see how it'll look one fastened on, another job for tomorrow.
Hell yeah, finally being able to drive it is amazing, i've been counting the days, lol.
The bonnet vents did make a big difference, but I've also cut the nose cone just below the number plate to get some more cold air into the rad/cooler/engine bay. I quite fancy pulling the side panels out at the rear of the engine bay to give the hot air even more places to exit.
Yeah me too, but that won't be until next year now I reckon.
I trial fitted the aeroscreen tonight to see how it'll look one fastened on, another job for tomorrow.
The bonnet vents did make a big difference, but I've also cut the nose cone just below the number plate to get some more cold air into the rad/cooler/engine bay. I quite fancy pulling the side panels out at the rear of the engine bay to give the hot air even more places to exit.
Yeah me too, but that won't be until next year now I reckon.
12-09-2011, 11:18 PM
#404
Regular Contributor
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: london
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The bonnet vents did make a big difference, but I've also cut the nose cone just below the number plate to get some more cold air into the rad/cooler/engine bay. I quite fancy pulling the side panels out at the rear of the engine bay to give the hot air even more places to exit.
Amazing build BTW, love it.
13-09-2011, 12:00 AM
#406
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
I don't see how you can get any more air to exit than you already have, you may be able to get a bit more air entering but if you've got temperature issues as it is now it may be indicative of a radiator size/efficiency issue rather than an under bonnet air flow issue.
Amazing build BTW, love it.
Amazing build BTW, love it.
Oh and thanks, glad you like it.
13-09-2011, 09:38 AM
#409
Regular Contributor
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: london
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You appear to have quite a bit of space just in front of the driver and you could definitely fit something small like Airtec's turbo cooler designed for the Focus RS. It comes with a fan so it doesn't have to be in direct airflow. IIRC it's about Ł200.
Last edited by hogdog; 13-09-2011 at 09:39 AM.
13-09-2011, 12:03 PM
#410
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
You're right there's not a lot of space up front, an intercooler with smaller end caps would allow it to have a greater core size, meaning more air could pass through it to the radiator.
The area around the radiator could be panelled to prevent air bypassing the radiator and therefore forced through the radiator.
I had also thought about fitting a pre rad (turbo cooler) to the cooling system and mounting it at the top of the engine bay and using the bonnet bulge (opened up) to direct cool air through it. Your idea of fans would simplify the install too.
Another option is junk the intercooler and fit a charge cooler in the area just in front if the bulkhead, and use a charge cooler rad in the space where the intercooler currently is.
The area around the radiator could be panelled to prevent air bypassing the radiator and therefore forced through the radiator.
I had also thought about fitting a pre rad (turbo cooler) to the cooling system and mounting it at the top of the engine bay and using the bonnet bulge (opened up) to direct cool air through it. Your idea of fans would simplify the install too.
Another option is junk the intercooler and fit a charge cooler in the area just in front if the bulkhead, and use a charge cooler rad in the space where the intercooler currently is.
13-09-2011, 02:11 PM
#411
If in Doubt Flat Out...
Cooling the engine has been a little bit of an issue, so during the first few runs out in the car various things have been tested and tweaked, most noticeably the bonnet vents being added, they will be finished off with black mesh on the underside.
Temperatures are a lot better now but will need further tweaking for piece of mind during track days and summer driving.
Temperatures are a lot better now but will need further tweaking for piece of mind during track days and summer driving.
Have you looked into an electronic water pump? got one for mine and the temp doesn't go above half even when hammering it hard around Cadwell. temps used to site on 3/4 or above, fitted the pump and normal driving its below 1/2 and hard race driving its can reach just above 1/2 but nothing more, and the amount of flow it gives is ridiculous.
13-09-2011, 09:31 PM
#412
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: wakefield
Posts: 1,007
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
great stuff!
how much difference did the vents make? how did you do them as they look well, ive been think about venting the sides of mine like a dax
how much difference did the vents make? how did you do them as they look well, ive been think about venting the sides of mine like a dax
22-09-2011, 10:48 PM
#414
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
Have you looked into an electronic water pump? got one for mine and the temp doesn't go above half even when hammering it hard around Cadwell. temps used to site on 3/4 or above, fitted the pump and normal driving its below 1/2 and hard race driving its can reach just above 1/2 but nothing more, and the amount of flow it gives is ridiculous.
I put masking tape on the bonnet then marked out where I wanted everything to be. I then cut circular holes at each end of the vents with a battery drill and 38mm hole saw, then using an angle grinder with a slitting disc i joined the two circles up to make the finished vent, the holes were then filed and sanded to remove the raggy bits of fibreglass on the inside the bonnet.
But when it's mended i'll pop round, kill two birds with one stone, as I'd love a good poke about your RS Turbo
24-09-2011, 09:00 PM
#421
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
Cheers boys
I've recently bought a set of Racetech mirrors, but have not got round to fitting them to the car yet.
Currently I have a problem which prevents me from disengaging the clutch, rendering the car useless
While driving the car the clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed ther, as though the clutch cable had snapped but that wasn't the case.
I removed the clutch release lever and found it to be damaged
Here's how a new one looks compared to a damaged one
I fitted the new one hoping it would sort the problem, but unfortunately soon after the new one was fitted it was in the same condition as the old one removed, so further investigation was required.
The clutch cover was removed and the clutch stripped down, everything looked fine apart from the lock up clutch plate. The bolts which hold the bearing housing to the lock up clutch plate were loose.
Due to the fact that the bearing housing was able to move around, the clutch puller pin which locates in the centre of the clutch and this bearing was allowed to move laterally, causing it to be damaged and wear.
The nuts on the arms in the photos above are to be removed and replaced with washers and a nylok nut to prevent them coming loose, as the nylok nuts on the end of the bolts currently fitted are not fully onto the thread.
The biggest problem with this is that to get a new pin it will have to come from America, because the Muzzy lock up clutch kit is an American product, but i've found a fellow kit car builder local to me with a lathe and we're going to make a new clutch puller pin next week.
I've recently bought a set of Racetech mirrors, but have not got round to fitting them to the car yet.
Currently I have a problem which prevents me from disengaging the clutch, rendering the car useless
While driving the car the clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed ther, as though the clutch cable had snapped but that wasn't the case.I removed the clutch release lever and found it to be damaged
Here's how a new one looks compared to a damaged one
I fitted the new one hoping it would sort the problem, but unfortunately soon after the new one was fitted it was in the same condition as the old one removed, so further investigation was required.
The clutch cover was removed and the clutch stripped down, everything looked fine apart from the lock up clutch plate. The bolts which hold the bearing housing to the lock up clutch plate were loose.
Due to the fact that the bearing housing was able to move around, the clutch puller pin which locates in the centre of the clutch and this bearing was allowed to move laterally, causing it to be damaged and wear.
The nuts on the arms in the photos above are to be removed and replaced with washers and a nylok nut to prevent them coming loose, as the nylok nuts on the end of the bolts currently fitted are not fully onto the thread.
The biggest problem with this is that to get a new pin it will have to come from America, because the Muzzy lock up clutch kit is an American product, but i've found a fellow kit car builder local to me with a lathe and we're going to make a new clutch puller pin next week.
Last edited by Red16; 24-09-2011 at 09:06 PM.
25-09-2011, 09:22 PM
#422
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
Well thanks to Beefy and his mate I could have the Mac back on the road sharpish, if all goes well i'll have a new clutch puller pin tomorrow, so not too long to go 
I've been doing a bit of poking around the car today, measuring, thinking and finally buying some parts to improve the cooling ability of the car.
The plan is to add extra capacity to the cooling circuit and cool the turbo cooling water by fitting a large radiator in the boot area of the car above the rear diff, push the water through it with a Davies Craig electric water pump, pull air across it with three 8" fans and finally duct it out through the top panel on the boot.
This setup should have the desired effect and also remain fairly discreet.
While I was looking at the read end of the car I took the opportunity to get some photos of the reverse gear setup fitted to the car.
I've been doing a bit of poking around the car today, measuring, thinking and finally buying some parts to improve the cooling ability of the car.
The plan is to add extra capacity to the cooling circuit and cool the turbo cooling water by fitting a large radiator in the boot area of the car above the rear diff, push the water through it with a Davies Craig electric water pump, pull air across it with three 8" fans and finally duct it out through the top panel on the boot.
This setup should have the desired effect and also remain fairly discreet.
While I was looking at the read end of the car I took the opportunity to get some photos of the reverse gear setup fitted to the car.
26-09-2011, 09:42 PM
#424
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
Cheers again for the pin Beefy, you came up trumps 
Et voila... one stainless steel clutch puller pin
To fit in with the new cooling setup in the boot, I need a new header tank, with larger volume and more inlet/outplet ports, so some aluminium sheet was bought and cut to size
then the TIG set was fired up and i set about joining the bits together, my aluminium welding is far from perfect but it's improving
Et voila... one stainless steel clutch puller pin
To fit in with the new cooling setup in the boot, I need a new header tank, with larger volume and more inlet/outplet ports, so some aluminium sheet was bought and cut to size
then the TIG set was fired up and i set about joining the bits together, my aluminium welding is far from perfect but it's improving
27-09-2011, 09:01 PM
#425
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
I've been to Kawasaki Newcastle this morning to collect my parts, unfortunately the clutch release lever is out of stock and will take a few more days to arrive on back order, but on a positive note the clutch cover gasket was there, so at least i could get the clutch built up and the engine sealed up.
On the way home i called into Gateshead Bearings at Bill Quay, I needed an open 6001/C3 ball bearing for the lockup clutch plate, but they only had double shielded 6001/C3 bearings, one of these would do the job but would need to have the shields removed before fitting.
When I returned home I was greeted with a pile of parcels, opening them showed that the majority of the parts for the boot mounted turbo cooler setup had arrived, hopefully the rest will turbo up tomorrow.
One radiator, Davies Craig water pump, hose elbows and hose adaptors/joiners.
I've not done a lot of work on the car today but the clutch is assembled, cover fitted with the new gasket, new oil filter and engine filled with oil.
The header tank is progressing, still a long way to go but it's taking shape nicely
On the way home i called into Gateshead Bearings at Bill Quay, I needed an open 6001/C3 ball bearing for the lockup clutch plate, but they only had double shielded 6001/C3 bearings, one of these would do the job but would need to have the shields removed before fitting.
When I returned home I was greeted with a pile of parcels, opening them showed that the majority of the parts for the boot mounted turbo cooler setup had arrived, hopefully the rest will turbo up tomorrow.
One radiator, Davies Craig water pump, hose elbows and hose adaptors/joiners.
I've not done a lot of work on the car today but the clutch is assembled, cover fitted with the new gasket, new oil filter and engine filled with oil.
The header tank is progressing, still a long way to go but it's taking shape nicely
28-09-2011, 07:59 PM
#426
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
The radiator fans turned up in the post today so I trial fitted them to the radiator, to double check they would actually fit as planned.
As the weather was glorious outside, I took the opportunity to roll the car out of the garage and removed the roll bar. This made access for fitting the radiator much better, some aluminium brackets were cut and welded to the radiator, rivnuts fitted into the chassis, and the radiator mounted.
The radiator fits in the space rather nicely, happy days
Next up, the fans were trial mounted again, so the to panel could be fitted and see how much it needed to be cut to clear the three fans.
The angle grinder was fired up and a small amount was cut from the bottom area of the top panel, rested in position, clearance looks great.
As I tidied the tools away for the night, I took the opportunity to rest the roll bar back in place, this is how it looks.
As the weather was glorious outside, I took the opportunity to roll the car out of the garage and removed the roll bar. This made access for fitting the radiator much better, some aluminium brackets were cut and welded to the radiator, rivnuts fitted into the chassis, and the radiator mounted.
The radiator fits in the space rather nicely, happy days
Next up, the fans were trial mounted again, so the to panel could be fitted and see how much it needed to be cut to clear the three fans.
The angle grinder was fired up and a small amount was cut from the bottom area of the top panel, rested in position, clearance looks great.
As I tidied the tools away for the night, I took the opportunity to rest the roll bar back in place, this is how it looks.
28-09-2011, 09:54 PM
#429
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
Cheers Jeff not long now til it's back on the road 
Thanks Beef when you want that welding done just give me a shout and pop up with it
not long now til it's back on the road when you want that welding done just give me a shout and pop up with it
03-10-2011, 11:45 PM
#432
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
The cooling issues are now resolved
the new radiator in the boot has done the trick
On the move temps dont go above 90 deg C, through traffic temp peaks at 94 deg C.
I've got some photos to add here but haven't uploaded them yet.
Took the car out tonight with cozzy jeff and the clutch has decided to stop working again not sure what's causing the problem yet, such a shame as everything was going so well, oh well, more tinkering required!
the new radiator in the boot has done the trick
On the move temps dont go above 90 deg C, through traffic temp peaks at 94 deg C.
I've got some photos to add here but haven't uploaded them yet.
Took the car out tonight with cozzy jeff and the clutch has decided to stop working again
not sure what's causing the problem yet, such a shame as everything was going so well, oh well, more tinkering required!
04-10-2011, 05:36 PM
#434
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
I've pulled the clutch release lever out of the engine casing tonight and it's in perfect condition, so the issue lies with the clutch assembly inside the engine casing, probably get it stripped down tomorrow to see what the problem is.
04-10-2011, 05:40 PM
#435
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
Here are a few photos of the recent changes made to the car.
Racetech mirrors have now been fitted
My DIY header tank has been pressure tested, found to be leak free and then installed
With the cover on the boot area of the car, this is all you can see of the radiator/fans inside
I'm planning on joining up the large and small holes to make teardrop shaped vents, then meshing the holes from the underside, this will be done at the same time as the vents on the bonnet are meshed up.
Racetech mirrors have now been fitted
My DIY header tank has been pressure tested, found to be leak free and then installed
With the cover on the boot area of the car, this is all you can see of the radiator/fans inside
I'm planning on joining up the large and small holes to make teardrop shaped vents, then meshing the holes from the underside, this will be done at the same time as the vents on the bonnet are meshed up.
03-11-2011, 10:29 PM
#438
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
A bit of an update...
The cooling issues are now resolved, the new radiator in the boot has done the trick, on the move the water temp doesn't go above 90 deg C, while driving in stop/start traffic through the town the temperature peaks at 98 deg C, much better than previously experienced.
Unfortunately the new clutch puller pin has broke, looks like the stainless steel was too brittle and has sheared.
A new puller pin has been made up from EN24t steel, it has an extra shoulder in the centre to locate in the original clutch cover bearing, and here she is...
In a bid to stop breaking puller pins, I've removed the weighted arms from the lockup clutch plate, so the clutch now operates as a standard clutch. The car now drives a lot better than it did with the lockup working, but the problem is the clutch now slips while using high boost.
To try and combat the clutch slippage I've bought an EBC heavy duty clutch kit with uprated springs, this will give more friction and more clamping force, so hopefully do the trick.
If the clutch still slips while running the EBC kit, it'll be a case of fitting the weighted arms to the lockup plate with no weights, try it and if required add weights until the clutch does not slip, trial and error stylee, trying to use as little a weight as possible to allow the clutch to grip.
The cooling issues are now resolved, the new radiator in the boot has done the trick, on the move the water temp doesn't go above 90 deg C, while driving in stop/start traffic through the town the temperature peaks at 98 deg C, much better than previously experienced.
Unfortunately the new clutch puller pin has broke, looks like the stainless steel was too brittle and has sheared.
A new puller pin has been made up from EN24t steel, it has an extra shoulder in the centre to locate in the original clutch cover bearing, and here she is...
In a bid to stop breaking puller pins, I've removed the weighted arms from the lockup clutch plate, so the clutch now operates as a standard clutch. The car now drives a lot better than it did with the lockup working, but the problem is the clutch now slips while using high boost.
To try and combat the clutch slippage I've bought an EBC heavy duty clutch kit with uprated springs, this will give more friction and more clamping force, so hopefully do the trick.
If the clutch still slips while running the EBC kit, it'll be a case of fitting the weighted arms to the lockup plate with no weights, try it and if required add weights until the clutch does not slip, trial and error stylee, trying to use as little a weight as possible to allow the clutch to grip.
