F2 Maxi Build Lucifer II - RL7's and a BIG Turbo!
06-01-2012, 06:18 PM
#761
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
Hello bud.
One I have for sale atm makes 240+BHP but the pistons and rods in it were ristricting factor, although they were steel and forged they wernt the best. Also with the crank being standard.
New spec forged pistons being used now and will know the out come in February of those after mapping, I am hoping the engine will see up to 260+BHP as it's also had crank and head work done.
One I have for sale atm makes 240+BHP but the pistons and rods in it were ristricting factor, although they were steel and forged they wernt the best. Also with the crank being standard.
New spec forged pistons being used now and will know the out come in February of those after mapping, I am hoping the engine will see up to 260+BHP as it's also had crank and head work done.
07-01-2012, 08:42 PM
#762
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
Update -
You wouldn't believe me but Ive been up my unit all day just to trim my doors, tricky shit man lol
I got some mk5 handles off of air-devil last week and painted them up, was chuffed as they luck mint.
The fitted my door cards, carbon fibre ones and had to self trim holes into them for handles etc dremmel to the rescue lol
The used passenger one as template to do the drivers one, also noticed how nice the door pulls look against the rest of the red and black, this is why I am keeping the ATL fuel cell red!!!
Dash board to fit next!!!
You wouldn't believe me but Ive been up my unit all day just to trim my doors, tricky shit man lol
I got some mk5 handles off of air-devil last week and painted them up, was chuffed as they luck mint.
The fitted my door cards, carbon fibre ones and had to self trim holes into them for handles etc dremmel to the rescue lol
The used passenger one as template to do the drivers one, also noticed how nice the door pulls look against the rest of the red and black, this is why I am keeping the ATL fuel cell red!!!
Dash board to fit next!!!
07-01-2012, 08:56 PM
#763
Advanced PassionFord User
Looks good Kev but go steady or it'll be another 2 years cos you'll want it carbon clad
07-01-2012, 09:15 PM
#764
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
Fuck that couldn't afford it mate 
07-01-2012, 09:55 PM
#768
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
Cheers gents
I'm not to sure mate, iirc theyre about Ł140 at a few places on line.
Those ones are one complete panel and had no cut outs in for handles as the usual ones you get have MK5 door handle squares cut into them and I wanted to keep MK6.
I was lucky enough to be shown them for sale by a friend who knew a bloke giving up on his track car so I got a bargain
08-01-2012, 10:51 AM
#769
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
When I dropped the running gear off last week I wasn't happy that the rear disc beam I had had powder coated by some crap company in Birmingham a few years ago had started rusting through the paint!
This is why I only use Redditch sand blasters now, a discount supplier on SportingFords.
I told my mate Sam I wasn't putting it back on and coincidently he replied via text with these pictures saying that he'd been up the unit and stolen my rear beam bushes and he was busy making this -
This is why I only use Redditch sand blasters now, a discount supplier on SportingFords.
I told my mate Sam I wasn't putting it back on and coincidently he replied via text with these pictures saying that he'd been up the unit and stolen my rear beam bushes and he was busy making this -
08-01-2012, 04:48 PM
#771
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
Cheers Glenn.
09-01-2012, 09:53 PM
#772
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
lndipedent rear end update -
Originally Posted by SamT
Done a little more.
Some captive nuts welded on and washers
Main tube cut to size and put in place
tight fit
Might weld that up 2morrow if i have time, need some gas first though!
Some captive nuts welded on and washers
Main tube cut to size and put in place
tight fit
Might weld that up 2morrow if i have time, need some gas first though!
10-01-2012, 06:17 PM
#773
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
more....
spent couple of hours on it this afternoon
Welded up the main tube to chassis mounts...
Then made the centre mount for the rose joints. Not welded onto the tube yet cuz gotta drill the holes in it and gotta add a plate over the front of it so half finished really.
Also cut and mitred one tube for the trailing arm.
Originally Posted by SamT
spent couple of hours on it this afternoon
Welded up the main tube to chassis mounts...
Then made the centre mount for the rose joints. Not welded onto the tube yet cuz gotta drill the holes in it and gotta add a plate over the front of it so half finished really.
Also cut and mitred one tube for the trailing arm.
10-01-2012, 06:53 PM
#775
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
It will also have a bladed roll bar mate yeah.
You ears burning yesterday? was chatting with Bara about ya after your old man rang him.
You ears burning yesterday? was chatting with Bara about ya after your old man rang him.
I bet the cost in that beam wouldn't be too dear neither I like the idea of it with cages and what not!
10-01-2012, 07:13 PM
#778
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
I thought you'd got an escort track/road car?
14-01-2012, 02:10 PM
#779
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
Picked up two VibraTechniques rear engine mounts today, one is for subframe and other for rear box.
I have the GrpA mounts for front chasis already but they ran standard in the position I am runing VibraTech mounts afaik.
Also having to refabricate mounting brackets for my AP's up front, managed to get some alloy blocks in rough diametre I think I need, will finish these off soon.
Mounts I have are for Cossie hubs.
Going to try and get dash board fitted tomorrow.
I have the GrpA mounts for front chasis already but they ran standard in the position I am runing VibraTech mounts afaik.
Also having to refabricate mounting brackets for my AP's up front, managed to get some alloy blocks in rough diametre I think I need, will finish these off soon.
Mounts I have are for Cossie hubs.
Going to try and get dash board fitted tomorrow.
15-01-2012, 09:05 PM
#780
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
Update -
Started the day off with wanting to get my flocked dash board fitted in but didnt want to try and chop that up first as knew I'd probably fuck it up lol
So using a standard spare dash I started the chopping and got it in, bit rough but in.
The tuck the plunge and chopped up the flocked one! amazingly first go was perfect lol old school carpentry scribing helped LOL
Didnt like the look of the platic hole covers as they wernt flocked so painted um black -
Think they look better.
Also started refurbing my hydrolic handbrake
Not much more as my day got interupted by fitting brake pads on my mates scooby wagon and then went over to me mate Marts to drop off a part I got off of Bara for his RWD convertion.
His neighbour kindly got his V8 pick up out though, was a weapon!
Will crack on with more soon as poss.
.
Started the day off with wanting to get my flocked dash board fitted in but didnt want to try and chop that up first as knew I'd probably fuck it up lol
So using a standard spare dash I started the chopping and got it in, bit rough but in.
The tuck the plunge and chopped up the flocked one! amazingly first go was perfect lol old school carpentry scribing helped LOL
Didnt like the look of the platic hole covers as they wernt flocked so painted um black -
Think they look better.
Also started refurbing my hydrolic handbrake
Not much more as my day got interupted by fitting brake pads on my mates scooby wagon and then went over to me mate Marts to drop off a part I got off of Bara for his RWD convertion.
His neighbour kindly got his V8 pick up out though, was a weapon!
Will crack on with more soon as poss.
.
Last edited by Minirotty; 15-01-2012 at 09:10 PM.
15-01-2012, 09:36 PM
#782
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
16-01-2012, 10:24 PM
#786
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
Lol cheers whiz.
Cheers mcgoo.
God knows Mat, spending as much time on it as I can atm, engine should be in Feb some point, f/g boot end of Feb, beem will be on soon too.
List of things to do is massive! Just read you spent seven 11 hours days on yours doing bits, they take up to much time man lol
Cheers mcgoo.
God knows Mat, spending as much time on it as I can atm, engine should be in Feb some point, f/g boot end of Feb, beem will be on soon too.
List of things to do is massive! Just read you spent seven 11 hours days on yours doing bits, they take up to much time man lol
17-01-2012, 07:38 AM
#787
PassionFord Regular
Kev
If sam is making your rear beam, which it looks like he is then pass this on to him, or could all end in disaster
The beam tubes were just a basic CDS like the old CDS2 Mechanical Tube around the 50 -55mmdia with a wall between 4 - 6mmthk, I have supplied this to a chap in Ireland that does escorts. For the arms many people still use basic CDS2 style material again but the either snap or rip out as the strength is not in the material.
If you want these items to be very strong and last I would look at BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing as a complete set - beam tube and arms. The cost would be so much more but the product would last, this is where the balance comes in -do you go for long lasting quality and pay for it or do you go for a product that will do but need replacing as you go?
BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing was looked at some time ago by a builder up north (In the UK) for the beam tube 52mmod x 3mmw/t but the issue is the min manufacturing run we can do as a prototype size would be 150mtrs and the cost per metre would be approx Ł38.65. The arms could then be made from either a metric size 40mmod x 2mmw/t or you could go up to the more standard size of 1.750"od x 14swg or even 12swg at about Ł20.00per metre. BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing would give you 700 -900N/mm2 Tensile, min 620N/mm2 Yield an a min elongation of 16% which would make the item very strong and also with stand the harsh riggers of modern day racing. BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing is about 3 times stronger than the old CDS2 Mechanical Tube so you may even want to look at the sizes and reduce them down a little which may will also effect the costs.
I have also looked at my new tube which is called ROPT510 (Roll Over Protection Tube - min tensile 510N/mm2, Min Yield 370N/mm2 and min Elongation 25%) but this material was designed for building every day roll cages (Blue Book / MSA Regs & FIA Regs). I feel the high Elongation would not help as this aids the bending but it would help soak up the energy of the beating.
The basic Cold Drawn Seamless (CDS2) CFS3BK will do the job but for how long I am not sure, the choice is how much you want to spend or how long you want them to last.
When using T45 tubing and welding it, you should really use Tig. When you weld it you should really pre heat it to around 100oC to prevent it cooling quickly afterwards and becoming brittle.
The original rear beams suffered massively from fatigue cracks around the centre mount and all welds. Then regularly had to grind the weld outs and re weld, this was mostly caused by the beam flexing and thus loads of strengthening adding to it in a later date.
I actually carried out a fully FEA analysis on the beam and the loads on the bearings under a corner speeds of 70mph with good sticky tyres is massive, make sure you use NMB bearings as they have the best load bearing parameters.
If sam is making your rear beam, which it looks like he is then pass this on to him, or could all end in disaster
The beam tubes were just a basic CDS like the old CDS2 Mechanical Tube around the 50 -55mmdia with a wall between 4 - 6mmthk, I have supplied this to a chap in Ireland that does escorts. For the arms many people still use basic CDS2 style material again but the either snap or rip out as the strength is not in the material.
If you want these items to be very strong and last I would look at BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing as a complete set - beam tube and arms. The cost would be so much more but the product would last, this is where the balance comes in -do you go for long lasting quality and pay for it or do you go for a product that will do but need replacing as you go?
BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing was looked at some time ago by a builder up north (In the UK) for the beam tube 52mmod x 3mmw/t but the issue is the min manufacturing run we can do as a prototype size would be 150mtrs and the cost per metre would be approx Ł38.65. The arms could then be made from either a metric size 40mmod x 2mmw/t or you could go up to the more standard size of 1.750"od x 14swg or even 12swg at about Ł20.00per metre. BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing would give you 700 -900N/mm2 Tensile, min 620N/mm2 Yield an a min elongation of 16% which would make the item very strong and also with stand the harsh riggers of modern day racing. BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing is about 3 times stronger than the old CDS2 Mechanical Tube so you may even want to look at the sizes and reduce them down a little which may will also effect the costs.
I have also looked at my new tube which is called ROPT510 (Roll Over Protection Tube - min tensile 510N/mm2, Min Yield 370N/mm2 and min Elongation 25%) but this material was designed for building every day roll cages (Blue Book / MSA Regs & FIA Regs). I feel the high Elongation would not help as this aids the bending but it would help soak up the energy of the beating.
The basic Cold Drawn Seamless (CDS2) CFS3BK will do the job but for how long I am not sure, the choice is how much you want to spend or how long you want them to last.
When using T45 tubing and welding it, you should really use Tig. When you weld it you should really pre heat it to around 100oC to prevent it cooling quickly afterwards and becoming brittle.
The original rear beams suffered massively from fatigue cracks around the centre mount and all welds. Then regularly had to grind the weld outs and re weld, this was mostly caused by the beam flexing and thus loads of strengthening adding to it in a later date.
I actually carried out a fully FEA analysis on the beam and the loads on the bearings under a corner speeds of 70mph with good sticky tyres is massive, make sure you use NMB bearings as they have the best load bearing parameters.
17-01-2012, 04:19 PM
#788
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
Kev
If sam is making your rear beam, which it looks like he is then pass this on to him, or could all end in disaster
The beam tubes were just a basic CDS like the old CDS2 Mechanical Tube around the 50 -55mmdia with a wall between 4 - 6mmthk, I have supplied this to a chap in Ireland that does escorts. For the arms many people still use basic CDS2 style material again but the either snap or rip out as the strength is not in the material.
If you want these items to be very strong and last I would look at BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing as a complete set - beam tube and arms. The cost would be so much more but the product would last, this is where the balance comes in -do you go for long lasting quality and pay for it or do you go for a product that will do but need replacing as you go?
BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing was looked at some time ago by a builder up north (In the UK) for the beam tube 52mmod x 3mmw/t but the issue is the min manufacturing run we can do as a prototype size would be 150mtrs and the cost per metre would be approx Ł38.65. The arms could then be made from either a metric size 40mmod x 2mmw/t or you could go up to the more standard size of 1.750"od x 14swg or even 12swg at about Ł20.00per metre. BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing would give you 700 -900N/mm2 Tensile, min 620N/mm2 Yield an a min elongation of 16% which would make the item very strong and also with stand the harsh riggers of modern day racing. BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing is about 3 times stronger than the old CDS2 Mechanical Tube so you may even want to look at the sizes and reduce them down a little which may will also effect the costs.
I have also looked at my new tube which is called ROPT510 (Roll Over Protection Tube - min tensile 510N/mm2, Min Yield 370N/mm2 and min Elongation 25%) but this material was designed for building every day roll cages (Blue Book / MSA Regs & FIA Regs). I feel the high Elongation would not help as this aids the bending but it would help soak up the energy of the beating.
The basic Cold Drawn Seamless (CDS2) CFS3BK will do the job but for how long I am not sure, the choice is how much you want to spend or how long you want them to last.
When using T45 tubing and welding it, you should really use Tig. When you weld it you should really pre heat it to around 100oC to prevent it cooling quickly afterwards and becoming brittle.
The original rear beams suffered massively from fatigue cracks around the centre mount and all welds. Then regularly had to grind the weld outs and re weld, this was mostly caused by the beam flexing and thus loads of strengthening adding to it in a later date.
I actually carried out a fully FEA analysis on the beam and the loads on the bearings under a corner speeds of 70mph with good sticky tyres is massive, make sure you use NMB bearings as they have the best load bearing parameters.
If sam is making your rear beam, which it looks like he is then pass this on to him, or could all end in disaster
The beam tubes were just a basic CDS like the old CDS2 Mechanical Tube around the 50 -55mmdia with a wall between 4 - 6mmthk, I have supplied this to a chap in Ireland that does escorts. For the arms many people still use basic CDS2 style material again but the either snap or rip out as the strength is not in the material.
If you want these items to be very strong and last I would look at BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing as a complete set - beam tube and arms. The cost would be so much more but the product would last, this is where the balance comes in -do you go for long lasting quality and pay for it or do you go for a product that will do but need replacing as you go?
BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing was looked at some time ago by a builder up north (In the UK) for the beam tube 52mmod x 3mmw/t but the issue is the min manufacturing run we can do as a prototype size would be 150mtrs and the cost per metre would be approx Ł38.65. The arms could then be made from either a metric size 40mmod x 2mmw/t or you could go up to the more standard size of 1.750"od x 14swg or even 12swg at about Ł20.00per metre. BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing would give you 700 -900N/mm2 Tensile, min 620N/mm2 Yield an a min elongation of 16% which would make the item very strong and also with stand the harsh riggers of modern day racing. BS4T45 to BS4T100 Condition Tubing is about 3 times stronger than the old CDS2 Mechanical Tube so you may even want to look at the sizes and reduce them down a little which may will also effect the costs.
I have also looked at my new tube which is called ROPT510 (Roll Over Protection Tube - min tensile 510N/mm2, Min Yield 370N/mm2 and min Elongation 25%) but this material was designed for building every day roll cages (Blue Book / MSA Regs & FIA Regs). I feel the high Elongation would not help as this aids the bending but it would help soak up the energy of the beating.
The basic Cold Drawn Seamless (CDS2) CFS3BK will do the job but for how long I am not sure, the choice is how much you want to spend or how long you want them to last.
When using T45 tubing and welding it, you should really use Tig. When you weld it you should really pre heat it to around 100oC to prevent it cooling quickly afterwards and becoming brittle.
The original rear beams suffered massively from fatigue cracks around the centre mount and all welds. Then regularly had to grind the weld outs and re weld, this was mostly caused by the beam flexing and thus loads of strengthening adding to it in a later date.
I actually carried out a fully FEA analysis on the beam and the loads on the bearings under a corner speeds of 70mph with good sticky tyres is massive, make sure you use NMB bearings as they have the best load bearing parameters.
I'm not going to pretend to know what the fuck you're talking about tbh other than your concerned with strength, I'll let Sam reply himself if he feels it neccessary to do so.
owe a pic I forgot of my handbrake once fitted back together.
Last edited by Minirotty; 17-01-2012 at 04:23 PM.
17-01-2012, 04:52 PM
#789
PassionFord Regular
It's not just a factor of strength. I have to say kev, if Sam has no idea about what I have written then beware it could end in disaster. It's just about a good looking weld and a nice powdercoated finsh. You have correctly choose the steel and apply strength in the right area. It can actually be a fundamental problem if its too strong.
17-01-2012, 04:59 PM
#790
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
Sam does have an idea of what you have written and fully understands it and has said you are correct in what you've stated, it was myself who hasn't a clue and that's why Sam is making it, not me.
He hasn't replied because what you have stated hasn't risen concern with him as he does know what he is doing also.
But appreciate your imput.
He hasn't replied because what you have stated hasn't risen concern with him as he does know what he is doing also.
But appreciate your imput.
17-01-2012, 05:04 PM
#792
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
17-01-2012, 05:31 PM
#794
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
haha alrite Jonny, long time no see on here.
God knows when it'll be ready for track pal but I intend to put as much time and effort into itthis year as poss and should see her progress loads pal.
The pikey vans on me drive (the wifes so happy about it ) all wired up and 99% ready to fire up now, just been far to cold to touch it lol
God knows when it'll be ready for track pal but I intend to put as much time and effort into itthis year as poss and should see her progress loads pal.
The pikey vans on me drive (the wifes so happy about it
) all wired up and 99% ready to fire up now, just been far to cold to touch it lol
17-01-2012, 06:21 PM
#796
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
the last update I saw from you was last winter
22-01-2012, 06:32 PM
#797
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
Update - although little.
Started sorting my tank out today as it's had a hard life being an original F2 ATL tank but it's coming up quite well!
Started by triming the bottom as it was built to be mounted over a wheel well.
Only trimmed front and back off of it.
Will contact ATL and see ig theyll sell me a new sticker.
Kept it RED haha some said change but I think it'll blend in well.
Also started making mounts for my tank to sit on as the pick up fuel pipe sits at bottom of tank.
Cut and drilled some alloy, only managed one though as I blew up the drill lol
Will leave paint to go hard and then ill give it a polish up.
Looks well sat in the back all clean and shiney already.
Got to clean off the alloy filler lids from the top and get some new bolts before it goes back together, a job for doing one night this week in the living room lol
More update soon
Started sorting my tank out today as it's had a hard life being an original F2 ATL tank but it's coming up quite well!
Started by triming the bottom as it was built to be mounted over a wheel well.
Only trimmed front and back off of it.
Will contact ATL and see ig theyll sell me a new sticker.
Kept it RED haha some said change but I think it'll blend in well.
Also started making mounts for my tank to sit on as the pick up fuel pipe sits at bottom of tank.
Cut and drilled some alloy, only managed one though as I blew up the drill lol
Will leave paint to go hard and then ill give it a polish up.
Looks well sat in the back all clean and shiney already.
Got to clean off the alloy filler lids from the top and get some new bolts before it goes back together, a job for doing one night this week in the living room lol
More update soon
Last edited by Minirotty; 22-01-2012 at 06:33 PM.
25-01-2012, 04:44 PM
#798
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
Got the second one done today on a friends piller drill, also spent last night using my kitchen sink whilst wife was at work to clean my tank lid up lol
Last edited by Minirotty; 25-01-2012 at 04:50 PM.
25-01-2012, 07:39 PM
#800
Lucifer II - 666
Thread Starter
Cheers! same to you on the Focus build bud, looks mint! 