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I think I am going to go with the black and red cam pulleys. I bought a bulk of black, black n red and black and blue as my mate is going to sell some on his website.
Thanks for the links, there is a LOT of money and work needed on that, I think I would start with a decent shell and start again but assuming the conversion is done straight it would be good for someone who doesn’t want to fabricate much.
Looks miles out to me. Was thinking it could have done with another bend to get it closer to the pillar. Mine are way closer and still cause a blind spot.
Agreed and with using 38 mm you can get a better radius and twist to match the aperture and its not exactly a small one in a 205 . The idea is to have the cage a snug as possible and stitch welded and tagged where possible .
With the cage sitting away and tagged wont introduce any flex worth noticing in the shell but with it further away if you hit the screen bar hard enough it will be very easy to kink the cage . Always better to be tight as poss
When the car is nearer completion I am going up for a look and sign / off agreement so I will reserve judgement for when I see it in the flesh...although I have zero qualification myself. To be honest, I just want the car back, build it up and use the bloody thing.
The floor, tunnel and bulkhead are templated but not in yet, once those are in I can go up and agree the rest. The rest of the jobs are things like the Sill Stands, pedal box, hand brake, fit the petrol tank which hopefully will not take too long.
When I go up we need to fit the seat position to the floor so that is when I get to see the view out the front window but Mark seems to think it looks good.
Agreed and with using 38 mm you can get a better radius and twist to match the aperture and its not exactly a small one in a 205 . The idea is to have the cage a snug as possible and stitch welded and tagged where possible .
With the cage sitting away and tagged wont introduce any flex worth noticing in the shell but with it further away if you hit the screen bar hard enough it will be very easy to kink the cage . Always better to be tight as poss
hi jay
its not 38mm od and for radius you can only go as tight as 3 times centre line radius of tube ,and you are limited to the amount of bends per tube ,for fia and msa spec ,and if you hit the screen bar you are upside down so prob with the amount of damaged
you not be bothered about kinking the cage lol also no matter how tight to shell if you bend screen bar it will damage rest of cage as the bend has to come from somewere
we have just got mandrel bender but you still cant bend tighter for spec but you can keep tube perfectly round through out the bend ie no throating or flattening of the outside like normal rotary draw bends
hope this clears that up lol
mark
Last edited by FLAT TRACK; 11-10-2018 at 08:41 PM.
The floor, tunnel and bulkhead are templated but not in yet, once those are in I can go up and agree the rest. The rest of the jobs are things like the Sill Stands, pedal box, hand brake, fit the petrol tank which hopefully will not take too long.
When I go up we need to fit the seat position to the floor so that is when I get to see the view out the front window but Mark seems to think it looks good.
once I get the 20v running in the 944 I want to be building up the pug. I want them all back up and running. My TT is in bits too after the cam belt snapped.
hi jay
its not 38mm od and for radius you can only go as tight as 3 times centre line radius of tube ,and you are limited to the amount of bends per tube ,for fia and msa spec ,and if you hit the screen bar you are upside down so prob with the amount of damaged
you not be bothered about kinking the cage lol also no matter how tight to shell if you bend screen bar it will damage rest of cage as the bend has to come from somewere
we have just got mandrel bender but you still cant bend tighter for spec but you can keep tube perfectly round through out the bend ie no throating or flattening of the outside like normal rotary draw bends
hope this clears that up lol
mark
i do fully understand fia and msa rules and how to spec and build a cage
These are the engine mounts
The mock up YB should be going in very soon to agree the position of the engine mounts as it will be mounted on the chassis like the WRC cars, this means I can have a more simple cross member for the steering and suspension and we can hopefully move back the engine a little....even an inch should help with packaging the frankly enormous intercooler and give a little space for the radiator as I could only fit a 205 one before., I hope we can get an oil cooler in there somewhere.
Last edited by Caddyshack; 15-10-2018 at 05:15 PM.
Pretty sure that's the same picture you posted 3 months ago. Is he actually doing any work on your car Toby or just giving you bullshit excuses and lies like he did to me and countless others.
Post #2189 to be precise. Stop promoting that mans work !!
Jon, relax. The engine is about to go in. I am not promoting his work. If the pic is re-used so what? It is relevant to the build as the engine is being mocked up. Only I have to worry about the timescale and believe me I do. There is nothing in my post promoting his work, it’s just a picture. I will continue to document the build.
this thread does not need any stirring...please.
Mark has been banned so let’s leave it there on this thread please.
Last edited by Caddyshack; 15-10-2018 at 07:13 PM.
Looks like my 6 degree beam in the background judging by the time of the picture
Hi Adam, is it in yet and how did you find the difference, if in? I was really impressed with how the rear hooked up, I just found it a little hard to dial in but I later found that my beam mounts were a few mill out of square which meant I ran out of adjustment and had to compromise.
It’s on now mate but won’t be able to test it till the cars finished hopefully next summer, got my engine to build then that should be it, can’t wait is an understatement I’m sure the beam will make a good difference.
Its on now mate but wont be able to test it till the cars finished hopefully next summer, got my engine to build then that should be it, cant wait is an understatement Im sure the beam will make a good difference.
What power will the new Engine be? What diff? Sorryif I have missed this on your posts. Also will you run spring and damper or coilover?
Haven’t been on here for over a year, Spent a couple of hours last night catching up with the build!
last time I read this it was nearly finished and now it’s fully stripped ��
cant believe how far your going with build.
It’s basically my dream spec of how I would make my car in a money no object rebuild.
Can’t wait to see it progress.
Any updates?
Hi Mate, Long time no see on here. Yes, it was up,and driving and I loved it but there were a few compromises I did now want so it was back to basics. I think it will be great...eventually.
Engine is now 25mm further back, this should help get the weight back a little but more importantly it allows room for the huge spec r cooler which is much bigger than my old airtec 100mm one but lighter.
Engine is now 25mm further back, this should help get the weight back a little but more importantly it allows room for the huge spec r cooler which is much bigger than my old airtec 100mm one but lighter.
Nice progress. Will the prop have to be shortened too?
Nice progress. Will the prop have to be shortened too?
Probably but it depends on where we lose the 25mm, my rear prop has a slider in it like a normal Cossie albeit 22 cm shorter so we may lose it there. My oppliger gearbox is a "long box" so it already has a 1 inch spacer in it for the bigger gears.
in theory wed just push everything else back. I have got a cossie to supra adapter on the rear prop so I might have the prop remade with a supra end on it as the adapter is pretty thick.
Last edited by Caddyshack; 03-11-2018 at 09:16 AM.
24-09-2018, 08:54 PM
