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Hmm, will need to check as bought spares recently and cannot remember. Jon, Mark has one of my spares in his shop unless he has posted it off to me already.
My turrets were not machined as far as I know. Just had spacers before to bolt through the coils in to the cam cover and head, now i won't have the spacers, the bolts bolt up and then you bolt in to them....I will post a pic when back as will make more sense.
Just read this entire thread (as only read bits and pieces before ) I'm a slow reader but it's taken me pretty much all day!!
What a journey you've been on with this car over the last 4 years, but a great deal of progress has happened. Hope you get these bits sorted and back on the road soon. Top work on everything you've done
Were you planning to make Ford Fair this year?
Ben
Last edited by moondustka; 17-07-2017 at 09:35 PM.
Thanks Ben. Not sure on Ford Fair, still lots to do on the car.
It has been a great journey of learning, I could now build another much faster and would do lots differently, I really enjoy driving it and hopefully soon it will not need to be off the road for further development to continue, just a last few niggles to iron out.
Toby out of interest why have you decided to use a camshaft sensor? Cheers
Hi Adam,
No real reason, I have never liked having a distributor....probably due to having an Austin Metro as my first car which was worn out when I got it and was forever messing with the dizzy.
I felt the cam sensor looked neater and as I had an issue with my car a few months back where the hall sensor had come loose under the dizzy cap I thought I may as well do it that way.
Aww I get you now mate cheers, so rather than removing your distributor cap and fitting a billet blanking plug, you are removing the whole unit and cutting it in half and leaving behind only what's needed to drive your oil pump?
Aww I get you now mate cheers, so rather than removing your distributor cap and fitting a billet blanking plug, you are removing the whole unit and cutting it in half and leaving behind only what's needed to drive your oil pump?
Keep up the good work
Yes, that's pretty much as I see it but having never done it before it will be a case of learn as I go....again
The parts have been ready for a while but I told MK to sit on them as been away and he is doing extra work on my cam cover.
There are old threads on here showing the parts and fitting.
I have all the component apart fron the COPs, but its bloody murder to find definative answer to which coils (part numbers) fit the std cover with out machining, reach the plugs, and bolts straight into the cover bolts.
There are old threads on here showing the parts and fitting.
I have all the component apart fron the COPs, but its bloody murder to find definative answer to which coils (part numbers) fit the std cover with out machining, reach the plugs, and bolts straight into the cover bolts.
It seems the K20 don't need machined rocker but as to the part number I don't know. I am just going to get the spare rocker machined down and then painted. I will probably keep the other as a spare on the garage wall.
, but its bloody murder to find definative answer to which coils (part numbers) fit the std cover with out machining, reach the plugs, and bolts straight into the cover bolts.
Not sure about the cost of others but VAG 2.0 TFSI coils are about Ł40 each, very reliable. I use them on my FRS engine, I say use, I mean used and will be using again
Pretty sure we tried them on Dan's Cosma and worked out they are a good length, decent fit, but require the cam cover holes opening up a little.
Might be an alternative for some..
Last edited by moondustka; 25-07-2017 at 08:56 PM.
I tried turning over the car and nothing, I felt the chassis end of the Earth cable off the block and it burned my finger. I then checked the fuses and found a blown 10amp fuse.
I replaced the fuse and then ran a temporary chunky Earth lead from the starter on the bellhousing bolt to the gearbox mount, the car turned over perfectly.
I will now run some huge Earth leads off the block to the chassis and then from bellhousing to chassis etc.
I made up 2 large Earth cables for each side of the block, these then bolted directly on to the chassis of the car on 19mm bolts, so there will be no issue with the engine block being earthed, I used 25mm2 cable each side.
I re tested the starter using a brand new starter motor and still had some smoke, this time it was from the battery positive lead in the engine bay..bit of head scratching and called my mate, Al. He suggested running a big jump lead off the battery to the positive on the starter to rule out the battery pos which had been on the car since the early 90's....hey presto, no smoke and much faster cranking....it seems both the old pos and Earth cables were too small and probably over time have corroded.
I have ordered up 6m of automotive flexible 25mm and will run a new one right through the car (battery is in boot) and I have ordered a mk4 golf battery mounted fuse box as these have 110amp fused posts (plus 3 50 amp ones) on a bus bar so I can nicely fuse the power lead at the battery end. I have a nice fresh flexi type grommet that Peugeot kindly fitted to pass it through the bulkhead (it has a massive amount of rubber around it)
I ordered 6m as the alternator uses the same cable so I will re-do that as well.
The original cable looks to only be about 10-12mm but has very stiff and thick copper in it.
I have got the proper battery clamp tool for making off the ends and I have ordered the correct size and quality ends.
Last edited by Caddyshack; 05-08-2017 at 04:07 PM.
Someone earlier asked why I didn't just use adjustable tca's instead of the full WRC setup and my answer was that I couldn't use the bladed arb which I needed as wanted to move my roll bar....MK now makes them to work with the bladed arb which would have saved me a lot...
I am not 100% sure how the bladed would work and I have compression struts...anyhow it's a cheaper option if anyone wants to go that route?
I have trial fitted the old fuel line on to the new fuel rail and it all fits up but when I ran the pump up to pressure a fair bit of fuel came out part way along the pipe so the arcing before obviously damaged the integrity of the pipe....it really was a lucky escape.
I have now removed the whol fuel line and sent it off to speedflow for a new one to be made up in their best quality pipe and I will get Fay to make up the line with all fittings on so I know it will be perfect. If I can get it back this week I can finish it at the weekend and then take the car for a fresh mot and go have some fun.
can't wait to see the whole thing done ...
thanks for sharing the infos about the k20 coils (to you and to anybody who's shared in here). very inspiring...
Fay from speedflow called me as she got my old fuel line today, she said it showed typical signs of E85 degredation and has seen more and more of it recently. The outer brading had also begun to break up which could have caused the damage to the electric cable it touched.
She has made me up a brand new E85 proof line with all new fittings and then covered it in heat proof protection for me, back in the post the same day and a courier text to tell me it will be with me in the morning. All up with An fittings and swivels, the line, the heat proofing postage was Ł120 which seemed good value to me and she made the line up for me for free to save me worrying about getting it right. I will fit it up tomorrow and then ready for MOT this week.
IT'S ALIVE. Fitted the new fuel line and she now starts better than ever before on the new Earth and live cabling. Gave it a quick run and a wash n Hoover ready for the MOT on tues/weds.
Then I can start to play with the spring rates again and dial in the bladed ARBs.
04-07-2017, 06:34 PM
) I'm a slow reader but it's taken me pretty much all day!!
Been running them on mine for 6 years.
...