Peugeot 205 with 4wd cosworth engine and running gear.
#1042
10K+ Poster!!
#1043
10K+ Poster!!
#1044
10K+ Poster!!
Yes, you should, Mark.
I should have listened to you the day I picked it up. As is often said on here "pick a tuner and follow what they say". It is bonkers now, I gave it about 80% today as a merc was up my arse and I was shocked at how I left him so far behind. I looked at the log after and I just caught 6000 rpm so there was more to go and it felt abnormal. I have yet to give it full bore gear after gear. It seems super bike quick to me but near 500bhp and 1000kg should I suppose.
Carbon fibre tailgate is about to be ordered, that is another 20kg gone
I should have listened to you the day I picked it up. As is often said on here "pick a tuner and follow what they say". It is bonkers now, I gave it about 80% today as a merc was up my arse and I was shocked at how I left him so far behind. I looked at the log after and I just caught 6000 rpm so there was more to go and it felt abnormal. I have yet to give it full bore gear after gear. It seems super bike quick to me but near 500bhp and 1000kg should I suppose.
Carbon fibre tailgate is about to be ordered, that is another 20kg gone
#1045
Advanced PassionFord User
Surely there needs to be a go pro mounted and the car given a good thrashing.
Glad to hear it's going well and you're on the mend.
Glad to hear it's going well and you're on the mend.
#1046
PassionFord Post Troll
Good review I read with a smile on my face mines taking stupidly long but reading yours is keeping me interested glad your finally out enjoying it and what jon said you must own a go pro
#1047
10K+ Poster!!
Funnily enough I have been planning a go pro
#1050
**RS COSWORTH**
Good to hear its back up & running have you fitted the gearbox breathers?
#1051
10K+ Poster!!
#1052
10K+ Poster!!
#1053
10K+ Poster!!
#1054
**RS COSWORTH**
But odd keep eye on the gearbox oil thoe would though if its vented to atmosphere you will run out of gearbox oil at some point. Whole point of the tanks is it chucks gearbox oil up into the tank when you get on it the goes back down into the gearbox when your driving easy.
#1056
10K+ Poster!!
But odd keep eye on the gearbox oil thoe would though if its vented to atmosphere you will run out of gearbox oil at some point. Whole point of the tanks is it chucks gearbox oil up into the tank when you get on it the goes back down into the gearbox when your driving easy.
#1057
10K+ Poster!!
Big Thanks to MK motorsport with all his help and advice getting the compression struts and adjustable tca on the car. I have had fantastic service and communication for this
#1058
10K+ Poster!!
I fitted the compression struts and adjustable track control arms today. It is quite noisy over cats eyes. Need to get the geometry set now as only done by eye and a measure to keep things the same length each side
#1059
Advanced PassionFord User
Pictures please Toby, we need pictures!
#1060
10K+ Poster!!
Will do some tomorrow
#1061
10K+ Poster!!
Didn't get round to pics.
I have found that the drivers side driveshaft on the front is at quite an extreme angle so that when you go over a big bump you can hear the drive shaft rub or vibrate in the cup or at the cv joint.
When the car is on the ground the driveshaft is pointing upwards. I don't think the xr4x4 longer shafts would help as the angle from output cup to hub would still be the same. I can raise the ride height of the car but I don't think it would look right if I go a lot higher. Any thoughts chaps?
The pin angle is leant right over on the track control arm so I am going to add some positive camber at the top mount to bring the pin back in to line.
GEARBOX, the close ratio makes the car so much nicer I always found the std Cossie ratios very long which felt like the car dropped out of the power from one gear to the next. Now I have std 1st and then 2nd, 3rd and 4th are really close to each other and it just keeps on the boil and the 5th is a bit more relaxed. The box does make a sort of straight cut whine on overrun but on a steady throttle it is quiet.
If you change up at around 4000 rpm you really make fast progress but without the massive lunges you get higher up the Rev range. Full bore it is bonkers.
I have found that the drivers side driveshaft on the front is at quite an extreme angle so that when you go over a big bump you can hear the drive shaft rub or vibrate in the cup or at the cv joint.
When the car is on the ground the driveshaft is pointing upwards. I don't think the xr4x4 longer shafts would help as the angle from output cup to hub would still be the same. I can raise the ride height of the car but I don't think it would look right if I go a lot higher. Any thoughts chaps?
The pin angle is leant right over on the track control arm so I am going to add some positive camber at the top mount to bring the pin back in to line.
GEARBOX, the close ratio makes the car so much nicer I always found the std Cossie ratios very long which felt like the car dropped out of the power from one gear to the next. Now I have std 1st and then 2nd, 3rd and 4th are really close to each other and it just keeps on the boil and the 5th is a bit more relaxed. The box does make a sort of straight cut whine on overrun but on a steady throttle it is quiet.
If you change up at around 4000 rpm you really make fast progress but without the massive lunges you get higher up the Rev range. Full bore it is bonkers.
#1062
PassionFord Regular
Didn't get round to pics.
I have found that the drivers side driveshaft on the front is at quite an extreme angle so that when you go over a big bump you can hear the drive shaft rub or vibrate in the cup or at the cv joint.
When the car is on the ground the driveshaft is pointing upwards. I don't think the xr4x4 longer shafts would help as the angle from output cup to hub would still be the same. I can raise the ride height of the car but I don't think it would look right if I go a lot higher. Any thoughts chaps?
The pin angle is leant right over on the track control arm so I am going to add some positive camber at the top mount to bring the pin back in to line.
....
I have found that the drivers side driveshaft on the front is at quite an extreme angle so that when you go over a big bump you can hear the drive shaft rub or vibrate in the cup or at the cv joint.
When the car is on the ground the driveshaft is pointing upwards. I don't think the xr4x4 longer shafts would help as the angle from output cup to hub would still be the same. I can raise the ride height of the car but I don't think it would look right if I go a lot higher. Any thoughts chaps?
The pin angle is leant right over on the track control arm so I am going to add some positive camber at the top mount to bring the pin back in to line.
....
can't say sh*t about the suspension set up. but cheapest try on that.
as last option...
down here cutting /elongation of half-shafts (never did, never saw, but...), it's told it's a quite common operation on modified/swapped cars.
it needs a good lathe. shaft cut, male and female done with interference, and reassembled with hot female.
sometimes welded on the cut line, and sometimes bonified after welding (or other heat treatment, donno exactly).
this requires big balls to be done on brand new half shafts.
in your situation, i'd first try to make some kinda of bastard, assembling junk parts which matches your axle specification, (but can't tell this would be the cheapest route).
hope for you this won't be useful, 'cause it means you are in deep trouble with this one...
however, good job! even though no pics of it !
sad to hear it's getting disheartening.
keep us posted.
#1063
10K+ Poster!!
Thanks. I have a great company that can make longer shafts. I won't give up ever, just need to find a way to sort it. I will raise the ride height for now
#1064
PassionFord Regular
#1066
10K+ Poster!!
Yes same angle for both but only seems to rub on drivers side. I assumed this was due to the position of the output cup on passenger side having more room. I will reduce the camber on the top mount to release the bottom pin and the. Bring the ride height up about an inch. Then get it all laser aligned and see what I am working with.
Cossie engine and running gear in a 205 shell always needs a bit of problem solving, previous owners just lived with the vibration I guess. The good thing is that it will just keep getting better.
Cossie engine and running gear in a 205 shell always needs a bit of problem solving, previous owners just lived with the vibration I guess. The good thing is that it will just keep getting better.
#1068
10K+ Poster!!
Thanks Ian, it is a good hobby and I enjoy the building, fabrication and problem solving...it can get you down sometimes but I close the garage and come back to it another day.
#1069
10K+ Poster!!
Exhaust needs a new hanger to get it square
Now with black stripes
Amber indicators in
Got a new old stock gear know and spoox supplied the correct pattern shift numbers in real carbon
Close up, window lifter switch panel is carbon too to match dash. Excuse mess, waiting for carpets
This is the shifter I made to bring the knob back in to correct place as gearbox is 25mmlonger
New key ring and carbon on lower dash with extra air vent to match roof vent.
Exhaust needs new rubber to bring it back straight
Now has the correct black stripes in the doors
Ambers in.
Last edited by Caddyshack; 28-06-2016 at 06:28 PM.
#1070
10K+ Poster!!
Here you can see the extreme pin angle
This is before the impression strut was on
Crap pic but you can just make out angle of driveshaft with car on ground
#1071
PassionFord Post Troll
Love this car 22 yrs ago my mate had a turbo tecnics 1.9 gti in black one of my favourite cars from memory was awesome for its time this mate what your building extreme epic and in a class of its own
#1072
10K+ Poster!!
My 2.016v grey 1.9 is probably as fast but not as dramatic
#1073
10K+ Poster!!
iTrader: (9)
Good to see it coming together Toby
With them tca and driveshaft angles though you need to workaround it somehow especially the shafts as looking at them angles you will chew them up in no time
I can't find a good pic of mine and i am sat at work on my phone but here's a pic of mine from the front, on a full size PC screen you can probably see the driveshaft angles just about but I'm not sure
Mine are not ideal as they also incline when at rest and ideally you want them straight or even better at a slight downward slope, but after double checking mine don't lock up or bind etc although originally they were 55mm too short due to my wider track
With Your tca's I have seen a few billet items used with normal hubs and they all seem to be at a fully locked out angle and the tca needs more angle at the outer end, I know they are already angles but it seems not enough for the standard set up
Here is a pic of some custom tca's AG Motorsport made for my fiesta originally when I was using standard hubs and you can see the greater angle at the outer end creating a much nicer angle for the tca pin
Hope that helps or gives a little useful info
With them tca and driveshaft angles though you need to workaround it somehow especially the shafts as looking at them angles you will chew them up in no time
I can't find a good pic of mine and i am sat at work on my phone but here's a pic of mine from the front, on a full size PC screen you can probably see the driveshaft angles just about but I'm not sure
Mine are not ideal as they also incline when at rest and ideally you want them straight or even better at a slight downward slope, but after double checking mine don't lock up or bind etc although originally they were 55mm too short due to my wider track
With Your tca's I have seen a few billet items used with normal hubs and they all seem to be at a fully locked out angle and the tca needs more angle at the outer end, I know they are already angles but it seems not enough for the standard set up
Here is a pic of some custom tca's AG Motorsport made for my fiesta originally when I was using standard hubs and you can see the greater angle at the outer end creating a much nicer angle for the tca pin
Hope that helps or gives a little useful info
Last edited by M K; 28-06-2016 at 09:41 PM.
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Caddyshack (04-07-2016)
#1074
cossie fan (unluckerly)
Mine has that same extreme pin angle as well. I asked about it and was told it's how they sit there can't be an issue as lots of sets have been sold. I can't really comment on mine yet as mine has no engine in it at the moment. Once it's up and running and the suspension set up and the roll bar fitted I'll see how it is. If it dose affect the way the parts move it will leave witness marks
#1075
Advanced PassionFord User
iTrader: (1)
Hmm, I wouldn't really like it if the ball joint was sitting at the end of its range. Of course it's sitting better when the car is on its wheels, but still.
BTW, increasing the length of the pin between the hub and the ball joint is a nice way of increasing the roll center height. You only need to match the length of the steering ball joints to it to prevent bumpsteer.
BTW, increasing the length of the pin between the hub and the ball joint is a nice way of increasing the roll center height. You only need to match the length of the steering ball joints to it to prevent bumpsteer.
#1077
10K+ Poster!!
Thanks Markk, Marc S, Mark K (MK) Whats with all the Marks? and Ajamesc for taking the time to reply, pics and explain. All makes sense. I have some adjustable top mounts being modded to take my Ford coilovers in to 205 top mounts and will just see how that frees things up with less camber and a bit of a ride height increase.
MK will be able to supply the billet hubs and uprights if needed and in the extreme he can mod one of his front cradles to be bespoke to my car so one way or another it will be solved. If I fix a problem I like the outcome to be an improvement to the car as well if I can...i.e. if it saves weight, makes it stronger or handle better then I am happy to keep going. At this rate though I am going to have a WRC car!
OR we could do a re-design of the bottom arm...I suspect it would need a tweak of the CAD software
MK will be able to supply the billet hubs and uprights if needed and in the extreme he can mod one of his front cradles to be bespoke to my car so one way or another it will be solved. If I fix a problem I like the outcome to be an improvement to the car as well if I can...i.e. if it saves weight, makes it stronger or handle better then I am happy to keep going. At this rate though I am going to have a WRC car!
OR we could do a re-design of the bottom arm...I suspect it would need a tweak of the CAD software
#1078
cossie fan (unluckerly)
Once mine is running and I've driven if hard as there's very little suspension movement anyway as it's quite hard. As long as the pin don't hit the arm causing it to limit movement I can't see it mattering. Mk is a very cleaver man and as he said he has sold a lot of these kits.
#1079
10K+ Poster!!
Once mine is running and I've driven if hard as there's very little suspension movement anyway as it's quite hard. As long as the pin don't hit the arm causing it to limit movement I can't see it mattering. Mk is a very cleaver man and as he said he has sold a lot of these kits.
My suspension is fairly compliant and I don't want to stiffen it up to hide an issue on my car and I want this to be very compliant for B road bashing.
If it comes to it the car can visit MK and I know he will find a solution.
I am thinking a small increase in ride height and better setup of the camber will solve a lot if not all of it. If that doesn't work we can alter the cradle or re-do the tca.
I can also swap to billet hubs
Mark texts me a lot and I know he will be very keen to help.
#1080
cossie fan (unluckerly)